Front IFS 7.5" E-Locker and rear 8.4" E-locker

Awesome! Great to know. Didn't know the gauge cluster had the locker in there being my truck doesnt have one. I have an 03 DLX and ive been drooling for lockers. In the process of buying a house but this is on the Taco to do list fRr ShHRr!

 

A wiring diagram is included with the Harrop install instructions. I believe the lockers come with a relay and wiring harness included. From there, you just need to swap in the "ottrattw" switches instead of the Harrop-supplied 80 series switch?

I'm sure Ward can jump in here if I'm missing something re wiring.

 

Perfect!

 

Well........ one small correction.

The OEM 80 Series two-locker rotary switch is something we sell as an option. Harrop does not provide. Their kit DOES include a Carling-style rocker switch like the one mentioned above (think ARB and every other generic aftermarket switch) along with two covers - one for "front" and one for "rear" so you can label the switch correctly. Switch is #1 below and covers #2 below. The switch has an indicator lamp that glows when locker is engaged.

 

Can the rotary switch be wired to a factory rear locker with the Harop front?

 

Yes. Ken Francisco (@ZUK) did just that....OEM rear, Harrop front see thread below around post #305
https://www.yotatech.com/f152/sas-f...nt-shackle-my-2001-tacoma-283930/index16.html

 

That dude put in some effort...and it paid off.

 

Gonna pull the trigger real soon. Currently have factory 3.58 gears (manual trans) mated to the 2.7L with 33s.

Going to either 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Still have to decide. Definitely going the Harrop E-Locker Front and Rear route, though. While I have my own custom onboard air already, I don't like the use of air lines, solenoids, and a compressor all having to work in tandem to activate a locker. WAY too many tings to go wrong. With my luck, each one would fail after fixing the previous problem and I'd be stuck without a locker or a paycheck. lol

I spoke to Ward over at Yota Lockers this morning. Good guy with an honest way of presenting options, even if not to his benefit as a salesman. I will be going the Harrop route, but still have to get finances in order and call Chase over at ECGS to work out a timeline and go over options. He was unavailable this morning.

Kenny

 

Cool.

 

If you have the manual trans on 33s I'd go 4.56. Im auto on 31s with 4.56 and it's a tad tall. But I have plans of supercharge and 33s so it'll work out

 

Only reason I'm thinking of 4.88s is I want to leave room for possible 35s in the future. Then again, I didn't plan on locking before 35s. With front and rear locked, 35s might not be as necessary.

 

I'd probably go 4.88 too for 35s

 

When I first did my 33's w 4.88 and my truck was all motor, I really liked it. Since adding forced induction, I feel it's a bit much and I'd prefer 4.56

 

These available for the rear? Whats the prices like?

 

Yes. $1314 plus install.

 

Thanks. Whats install consist of? Something that can be done by myself or a shop? $1300 gives you the locker/harness/switch then?

 

Depends on your skills. But I would get a shop to install the locker. It requires machining the clam-shell. As well as a regular gear install. $1300 includes the locker, harness, and switch.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the info man. This basically needs lockers to be almost complete 99' 3rz/5 spd

 

Machining is only needed for the front. The rear is drop in. You just have to drill the 3rd to run the wire

 

Thanks for the extra info!! Hopefully have the front done by fall. I have the Detroit LSD locker in the rear but its pretty useless when youre already stuck...