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Front Locker

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by arctic04trd, Oct 17, 2017.

  1. Oct 18, 2017 at 11:04 PM
    #41
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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  2. Oct 21, 2017 at 9:46 PM
    #42
    arctic04trd

    arctic04trd [OP] VA7XTE

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    I appreciate all the responses guys. I've decided to go ahead with a locker and the regear. I will continue to mod/un-mod this truck until I'm happy with its state or I need a land cruiser lol.

    Thanks for the opinions. It was really informative. I'll keep you posted and I'll post a thread on the 4.88s and ARB once I've run them for a reasonable period. I find that most of this info is on ttora and yotatech. I realize this forum is less wheeling oriented (as am I) but I still think that it's part of the love for modding these awesome trucks.

    One last word; get out and find new adventures. For a lot of us, we are not living until we experience new places, suffer breakdowns, and let those experiences shape our character. :canada:
     
  3. Oct 22, 2017 at 12:06 AM
    #43
    Jiveydude

    Jiveydude Well-Known Member

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    stuff and things that make it better
    Just regeared to 4.88's with ARB lockers front and back. Got some miles of breaking in before I can give my 2 cents but I'll keep you posted.
     
  4. Oct 22, 2017 at 9:28 AM
    #44
    btu44

    btu44 Well-Known Member

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    Tim, I really appreciate the time you spent making your excellent videos. I've made a few machining videos and they can take fair amount of time.

    I have a question for you or anyone else. I plan in the future to install an elocker in the front of my Tacoma. If I were to remove the sway bar, steering rack and the drive shaft flange from the diff before removal, could this be a one man job? I figure I could support the front diff with a scissor diff jack that I have.

    I was able to remove and install the front diff on a 89 Toyota truck but it had a 4" bracket lift which gave all kinds of room.
     
  5. Oct 22, 2017 at 9:38 AM
    #45
    Clay_916

    Clay_916 Well-Known Member

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    If you’re asking if it’s possible to drop the front diff solo the answer is yes. It’ll take around 4 hours. I was able to do it with just a floor jack. It’s definitely not a cake walk. Some of the hoses on top are very hard to get to and the diff just barely slides in and out around the x members and what not. You’ll need to be pretty able-bodied.
     
    btu44[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Oct 22, 2017 at 9:59 AM
    #46
    broken taco

    broken taco Well-Known Member

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    Also I had a fox mid travel setup when I had the ARB locker. To help me from blowing up even more CVs than I did, I got limit straps so that the CVs would not hit such hard angles which caused them to break easier.
     
    Ritchie likes this.
  7. Oct 22, 2017 at 2:39 PM
    #47
    btu44

    btu44 Well-Known Member

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    Yea, it looks like a major PITA. But considering this job is close to $1000 (my guess) in labor with locker install it's worth the hassle and cursing.
     
  8. Oct 22, 2017 at 8:58 PM
    #48
    Timmah!

    Timmah! Well-Known Member

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    I don't think you need to remove the sway bar, steering rack or the drive shaft flange. I pulled the front diff on a friend's 3rd Gen 4runner to replace the clam shell for one from East Coast Gear Supply that had an ARB locker installed. It was definitely a pain in the ass to get out and back in. But, since then, I learned a tip from one of the subscribers of our YouTube channel. The guy disconnected the driver side motor mount and jacked up the engine to get more clearance. The problem with getting the diff out and back in has to do with the rear mount design. It has a stud that sticks down into the cross member. To get the diff out, you have to jack up high enough so the stud clears the cross member but then you have issue of the diff flange hitting the bell housing as you're trying to get it out. When we did the job, we disconnected the transmission mount and jacked up under the transmission to gain a little more clearance but we didn't mess with driver side motor mount. I think if you disconnected the driver side motor mount and the transmission mount, got a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan and jacked up the engine, you'd have the clearance necessary to make the removal and reinstallation way easier.

    Now, with all that said, that differential is freaking heavy and awkward. You might be able to do it yourself but there's a certain amount of muscling that needs to happen that a jack won't be able to help you with. I think you'd be better off if you could get a friend or family member to help you if possible. When you watch the video, you will see the struggle Fred and I were having with that monster.

    I have two videos for you. The first is for the Front Differential Replacement and the second is for dealing with the Motor Mounts and Transmission Mounts.

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/w_gPiDvh9v4

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/g_4DiywsSbk
     
  9. Oct 23, 2017 at 8:49 PM
    #49
    btu44

    btu44 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, 2 good videos. The trans mount vid made my own mount replacement a half hour job.

    I do agree it is a 2 man job to remove the differential. Laying on my back with that much awkward weight over head is a good way to get hurt.
     
  10. Oct 23, 2017 at 9:25 PM
    #50
    Timmah!

    Timmah! Well-Known Member

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    If you lived closer, I'd say come over my place and I'd help you out but you're in Southern California and I'm in Northern California.
     
  11. Oct 23, 2017 at 10:46 PM
    #51
    36tacundra

    36tacundra Well-Known Member

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    words to live by, 3 things not to lend out. never loan out a pen, your truck, or your wife. no matter what, because you never get them back the same way.
     
  12. Oct 23, 2017 at 10:58 PM
    #52
    TACOVRD

    TACOVRD I Identify As A Prius

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    +1
     
  13. Oct 23, 2017 at 11:03 PM
    #53
    steelhd

    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    Definitely not. Helical gear LSD instead and here is one of many sources that explain why.
    http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/131-0606-front-locking-differentials/
     
  14. Oct 27, 2017 at 7:36 PM
    #54
    arctic04trd

    arctic04trd [OP] VA7XTE

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    I've read the article. Fourwheeler is talking about rigs on 40s and wheeling on rocks. Neither of these apply to my application. And I don't believe that even a stock 7.5" tacoma ifs will handle the abuse that these guys run their rigs through.

    I do take their article to heart, but I just don't see the relevance to my situation. Thanks for the insight though
     
  15. Oct 27, 2017 at 7:40 PM
    #55
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I'm the opposite, I'll let anyone drive it, I'll encourage hooning off-road and I've taught a few to drive stick in it haha. I'd love to see the look on a valets face if I told them to park it, my clutch is dump truck level stiff ever since I swapped it.

    Also OP @drr is right eliminating front spider gears is wise if money is no option, ARB is a great idea.
     
    drr and arctic04trd[OP] like this.
  16. Oct 27, 2017 at 7:43 PM
    #56
    arctic04trd

    arctic04trd [OP] VA7XTE

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    FIFY

    Money is an object, but I've made the decision that I don't want a new truck. Which opens up funds to mods haha
     
    Ritchie and Speedytech7[QUOTED] like this.
  17. Oct 27, 2017 at 7:46 PM
    #57
    steelhd

    steelhd Well-Known Member

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    I've seriously considered locking my Tacoma but came to the exact opposite conclusion you did. I don't rock crawl either so feel like there isn't any need a front locker. LSD is more than adequate for my uses without the risk of a locked IFS. My Jeep is another story. I rock crawl and wheel hard with that and the front is sporting a D44 Currie Rockjock with an ARB locker.
     
  18. Oct 27, 2017 at 7:46 PM
    #58
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    Good decision!
     
  19. Oct 27, 2017 at 7:56 PM
    #59
    arctic04trd

    arctic04trd [OP] VA7XTE

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    Ok. Point taken. I agree a locker is for harder trails than a gravel FSR. But there are different types of terrain. My terrain is deep snow, muddy trails, icy snow, loose rocks, slushy snow, and occasionally hard packed snow. Lots and lots of snow. I've found the e-locker gets me further than open-open, so I'm assuming the front will help even more. And I'm trying harder and harder trails even in the summertime without rock crawling. Since rock crawling doesn't really exist in the PNW
     
  20. Oct 27, 2017 at 8:02 PM
    #60
    drr

    drr Primary Prognosticator

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    You mean "muddy roots and slippery bullshit crawling" lol.

    Front locker helps a ton in the snow, especially the selectable part of it. Need to steer? Unlock it. Need to smash through 6 ft of Cascade concrete? Lock it up.
     

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