Front output shaft leak

Have a slow drip off the front output shaft of my transfer case.
Pickup is a stock 2002 Taco, 3.4 liter, 5 speed. 160k miles.

It started about a year ago after driving about 100 miles in 4 wheel drive on snow packed roads. I've had it repaired 3 times since t began.

1st time the shop replaced with non-factory seals
2nd time they used factory seals.
3rd time factory seals and a new t-case flange.

3rd time I got it back I couldn't engage my 4x4 at all, but it turned out to be a blown fuse and is possibly not related at all.

The shop won't cover anything else under warranty at this point because they are claiming "other parts are malfunctioning or that I drive in 4x4 when not necessary". They say I need to take it to the dealership.

My 4 wheel drive works great and engages immediately. I only use 4 wheel drive when necessary and the past leak started without me ever engaging 4x4.

What other parts might need to be replaced that are resulting in blow seals in a few days?

I myself changed front output shaft seals on two dodge 2500s with no issues, so I am wondering if it is just incompetence at the Meineke I was forced to take my truck into.

 

Is the breather breathing freely?

 

Thanks cruiserguy.
If I remember correctly from first looking into this, there is a closed circulation breather on the top of the transmission (top image). And an open breather running from near the front drivshaft input and out under the hood. (Middle and bottom image)

 

My front Tcase's front seal failed as well awhile back.
No reason/vent was not restricted... just 15 years old I'll guess.
Was easy to replace IMO...
(I purchased a new toyota factory seal, was hand pressed (Thought I used a socket to seat).
Hasn't leaked since the replacement seal was installed. (8-9 months sf)

It did however require that I remove the front driveshaft from the Tcase's output.
So be sure to index mark exactly how the driveshaft is assembled
so that it is reassembled in phase.

^ technically reinstalling the driveshaft exactly how it was originally.
Including the DS's slip shaft alignment (if taken apart).

 

Thanks Taco Dell. Those are the same steps for replacing it on the dodges my
Brother and I used to have. After the third failed attempt by the shop I finally had a place to wrench on it myself. Problem was the bolts are so tight on the front drive shaft that they are stripping on me. Using a socket on the nut and wrench on the bolt I can't budge them. Definitely didn't have that issue even working on much bigger diesel trucks.

 

I remember mine being purdy tight as well...
I think Locktite (red likely) was used..

You could always try applying some heat to those bolts
to break the Locktite loose.

Never stripped the bolt heads on mine.
You sure yer using the correctly sized wrench ?

Don't use a crescent wrench...
rounds them out most every time.

closed box end wrench instead.

Of course if you've already stripped those bolt/nut heads...
even a box end wrench may not hold.

 

Forget the bolts, they are splined and pressed into the flange like a wheel lug. Get a longer ratchet/cheater and put all your effort into your nuts then slide the DS off the remaining studs (collapsing the slip joint).
As far as the leak I can't think of anything other than the breather or bad install.

 

good point... I guess it's been so long... I forgot that.

 

just replaced mine a few months ago. Not hard once you get the DS removed. You may need to unscrew and remove the zerk fitting to allow some of the grease in the slip yoke to come out and make compressing the DS easier. It's a 30mm keyed nut on the output shaft and you have to bend/ cut out the keyed part to loosen. On the output flange, I double nutted two studs so I could use a breaker bar resting against the TC and across the flange to make loosening/tightening easier. remove the old seal and tap in the new one. coat with grease and button up. Mine had been oozing for about 4 years and then finally a small river.