Front Passanger CV Axle Question

Hey guys,
I am trying to diagnose some road noise. I think it's a wheel bearing although I am not getting very much play when I lift the truck and jostle the wheel. I wanted to look at other possibilities before I order parts. I noticed where my front passenger (which is the side I believe the noise is coming from) CV axle connects to the tranny looks..odd to me? I took some pictures and you can see where there is a gap. I want to know if this is normal..there is some 1 to 6 play in this CV axle on the side far from the tire.
4x4, 3.4L, 5 M/T
Thank you!

 

That gap is normal. The end of the shaft where it goes into the differential has a cerclip that will snap into place when you push the axle in. There will actually be some back on forth movement (not much). Road noises could be many things and wheel bearings usually make a howl. If your CV axles are spinning all the time it could come from the diff bearing but that's just a guess as well. Good luck!

 

Thanks a bunch for the reply. It is having a pretty good howl over 40 mph.. I'm going to look into the front diff bearing before I start tearing stuff apart.

 

Engage 4WD and see if the noise changes. If it does then the issue is within the pinion bearing in the front diff. If it stays the same then your wheel bearing is probably
bone dry and worn out.

 

Good idea, I just did this and it didn't change anything..I will be replacing the front wheel bearings then..I am planning on pulling the knuckles and then bringing it to Toyota/Machine shop to get the new ones pressed in. I will try and update the thread if it fixes the sound!

 

It could be wheel bearings with or without a howl. Mine made a chirp more like a u joint. I changed everything I could before the front wheel bearings in hopes it wasn't the front. In the long run, would have just been a lot cheaper to buy the press at the outset and change the front first. My bearings had no play (in any direction) in them, so if you're banking on the play test, don't.

 

Good to know..if it's not the wheel bearing I know no idea..my u joints have been replaced recently too.

 

What do I need to give the machine shop to do this job besides the knuckle and the new bearing. Are there any seals which should be bought? I want to make sure because some diagrams looked like there were two wheel bearings, one on each side of the knuckle.
Parts numbers, references to other threads or any info is appreciated.
Thanks.

 

Not likely for both wheel bearings to go bad at the same time. Jack up the truck and spin each wheel by hand. If the bearing is bad, one wheel will sound distinctly louder than the other three.

 

They will have everything needed with just the knuckle and new bearing. However, you will be reusing the same brake shield unless you give them a new one. You can apply the inner and outer seal afterwards yourself, but there is only one wheel bearing per side.

EDIT: you will need to provide the outer seal and bearing at a minimum. This will leave you reusing your brake shield and having to install your inner seal afterwards.

 

Whoa- Some incorrect info ^

You absolutely need to give them some seals as well! I can't dig up the diagrams at the moment, but yes, you need to give them more than the bearing the knuckle.

 

Both my front bearings where bad- why should it be unlikely for two bearings that have seen virtually the same miles over the course of 20 years to go bad at similar times?

 

Not to mention if you're going through the trouble of removing a knuckle and taking something to a machine shop- just do both.

 

Sorry, but I’ve only built over twenty sets of these for customers here on Tacomaworld. The seals are installed after the bearing, c clip, and hub are pressed together into the brake shield and knuckle. You can mount the inner and outer wheels seals without any special tools by yourself after all of this has been done by the shop. If you get them in time, then sure, but you don’t need to have them in hand prior to getting the new bearings pressed.

EDIT: I am nothing short of a menace to society as a whole and my above statement may have possibly led to someone’s demise of an $80 bearing at the cost of $15 seal. I have done this by accident twice and it is mentally anguishing. Andy is correct.

 

. Please elaborate if you think I am providing incorrect information. RTFQ -> ATFQ. He only asked what the shop would
need. Yes, I wouldn’t recommend reusing seals but he can install those after the bearing is pressed by the shop himself.

EDIT: Please don’t hold me legally responsible for anything I have ever said to you or those around you.

 

Your original comment is misleading:

You still need the seals. It's great that you've done so many bearing replacements, and that you're so well versed in the order of operations to do so, but I think the way you said this is irresponsible.

 

Thanks, your opinion is mildly interesting. However irresponsible you may think I am, the above answer to the man’s question isn’t “Whoa, incorrect info.” Next time try something
more appropriate. How about “if you have never rebuilt any knuckles yourself or don’t consider yourself to be mechanically inclined, then provide the shop
with the bearing, and both wheel seals for complete assembly
minus the upper ball joint.”

EDIT: I am a moron. Tacomaworld is now dumber for my contributions.

 

Dude, It's the internet, people have zero attention span. 100% guarantee that someone is going to read the first sentence of that and get upset when they get their knuckles back without seals and have to the work themselves.

 

I will send you the part numbers tonight.

 

actually, I just remembered. You do have to have the outer seal installed prior to pressing in the hub or you will destroy the new bearing to take the hub back out. Boy, if
this is irresponsible then my life has been downright chaotic and wreckless.

EDIT: In addition, my recommendation to delete all ABS systems and apply anti-seize directly to the rotors is also frowned upon.