front rotors that won't warp? - 2014 version

Rotors absolutely will physically warp, if you ever watched a rotor being cut, you would see it with your own eyes. The tool will hit and miss the surface until its perfectly true.

IMO, the biggest contributing factor to warped rotors is a yahoo with an impact wrench. There is no meat on new rotors. In the old days you could cut a rotor 1,2,or 3 times... not now a days. You might get 1 cut if you're lucky.

A yahoo with an impact wrench not evenly tightening your lugs will warp your rotor every time. ALWAYS request a hand torque anytime your wheels are removed.

 

Thanks! I am in debt to you for the info !!!!

 

thank you very much for the replies, but i was asking for specific part recommendation.

here on SummitRacing.com the price seems to split between cheap-o and super-expensive, no in between.

i want to spend more than $60 a rotor but don't want to spend $400 for both either.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/brake-systems/year/2010/make/toyota/model/tacoma/part-type/brake-rotors?N=4294947838%2B4294949825%2B4294941232%2B4294934483%2B4294947817&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc

i may very well get a pair of $30 rotors, change them out, use the same damn pads, and see what happens. they all seem to suck anyway.

 

I've heard good things about Brembo blanks as well.

Brembo Brake Rotor - 25534

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZPS9C?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

 

I've had rotors warp before.

 

I ORDERED THE BREMBO ROTORS

JUST OVER $100 FROM AMAZON (FREE SHIPPING)

THANKS DUDES, GOOD READING

 

Rotors will only warp in extremely sever conditions which I guarantee you have not put them through. What you are feeling is lateral runout. Multiple things cause lateral runout as mentioned before brake pads deposit and remove metal from the rotor over a period of time. There is only one way to cure this, matching the rotor to the hub, this is accomplished by either cutting the rotor with an on car brake lathe(easiest and most accurate) or by cleaning your mating surfaces checking with a dial indicator the amount of runout and making sure that it is less than .002" I have put brand new rotors on a vehicle and the runout can be well over .005" you will feel this in the steering wheel as a shudder while braking. Why? Because the rotors were manufactured incorrectly.
Easy solution cut the rotors on the car.

I suggest pro-cut on car brake lathes as they are the only approved on car lathe for warranty work for almost every manufacturer. Also most manufacturers when receiving warranty work for "warped rotors" are required to use this on car lathe to solve the problem...

Argue all you want those are the facts.

 

I've warped Toyota rotors and Brembo blank rotors.

The only rotor that hasn't warped on me yet is Advics.

 

Really so you have warped your rotors? Send me the set you warped and I'll check it on my test stand, we're you driving 100+ with a trailer down a hill into a river while slamming on your brake pedal?

The point I'm making is sure there is an off chance you could warp your rotors, but the more likely scenario is you had lateral run out due to improperly machined rotors or there is a thickness variation due to deposits and removal of metal on the rotor.

I can certainly post the warranty guidelines of manufacturers on the correction of "warped rotors" and the industries thoughts on what causes brake shudder if you'd like but it is most likely pointless as you think you know what caused your problem so go right ahead and continue believing what you want.

 

x2 Hotrod ! Over many years I've had a number of disks warp - funny how it always happens after I get tires worked on. My driving is mostly rural and little if any high speed stopping. IF someone has some supporting info otherwise I'd be interested in reading.... But this is my current belief.

 

Fair enough.
In the end all I'm suggesting is that instead of replacing rotors or even if you are replacing have them matched(machined on the vehicle) to the hub. I guarantee they will last a lot longer before you feel lateral runout than any other option out there, and there are hundreds of articles, tests and videos proving this.

 

Supporting information for anyone curious can be found http://procutusa.com/newsroom.aspx

 

You evidently are missing the entire idea behind machining rotors, thousandths of an inch is not changing the ability of the rotor to dissipate heat, it is correcting the thickness variation that occurs over time. That's fine if you want to replace rotors and waste money I'm sure the auto parts stores are happy to have a returning customer, for anyone who wants to actually cure the issue and save money there is rotor matching. For what it's worth I'm on my original rotors with 200,000 miles, oh and we have a few hills in idaho as well but I must just brake less...

 

I know this isn't brake related, but to whomever said they never use their parking brake, I do not think that is a good idea. When you put the transmission into park, it will roll forward or backward a short distance. This is when most of the resting load is distributed to the transmission, instead of it being in the brakes.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.

And lulz to all the people who do not think rotors warp.

 

Well 90% of those rotors are coming from china so you are stimulating that economy... Jk
I can understand that, I have access to all the equipment so it works for me. An easy way for you to get a benefit with new rotors is to use a dial indicator on it finding which position gives you the least runout and make sure all rust and dirt behind the rotor is clean this prevents lateral runout or at the very least shows you what you have. By the way most manufacturers require a runout of under .002" anything over that and you will feel pulsation after a few thousand miles... But as you said time is money.

 

Thank God some one used the correct term: Lateral Runout

Like OEM tires, OEM Brake Pads and Rotors are not of the best quality(In most cases)

Only issue i've had with runout and non oem pads and rotors, was with a late 90's bmw that had .001" lateral runout and the brake pedal was still pulsating. BMW pads and rotors alleviated the pulsating and I believe it had about the same runout. Damn "high end" cars and their OEM needs!

 

And the point is ??? Is there an article that has to do with our thread I'll read it - but I won't peruse a web site....

 

Dusten...you are correct, it is lateral run out...however, the term warp is used to identify that b/c its the term people tend to understand. EX: calling a 4x4 a "Jeep" or calling a sportbike a "crotchrocket".
its alot easier to tell someone a rotor is warped than to tell them that it has excessive lateral runout and to try and explain what it is. thats the way i see it.