front shock install WITHOUT spring compressor

I bought it at OReileys, but it's this same one.

https://www.weselltools.com/macpher...MIz9XSzuGz2QIVBVt-Ch3UAwYIEAQYDCABEgLPFfD_BwE

 

I bought my Bilstein 5100 shocks about 1 year ago and would like to do this method myself, but still not 100% confident I can do it. I just picture starting it and either not being able to break loose an 11+-year-old seized bolt nor being able to remove the old shock after dropping the LCA down.

 

Perhaps yes.

 

I used this method on the passenger's side. It is a pretty daunting task. I had another vehicle and ordered parts.
Really helps to spray A LOT of rust releasing spray. I had to wiggle the LCA UP, not just down and loosen the LCAs.

 

Thanks for the advice and sharing a real-world experience for the shade tree type DIY. I did my rear shocks about a year ago and before doing it I read and viewed everything I could, most made it seem like an easy/fast job. I had a hard time getting the upper bolts off and installing the new shocks didn't go as smoothly as I planned either. I did get them installed myself, but now I look at every DIY job more skeptical.

I have been using Fluid Film for 3 years so my 11+ year-old bolts may not be seized, but that is wishful thinking. I really don't have the $200 for the shock replacement, but I may end up going that route.

 

Tried this it was a pain in the ass. Would suggest a spring compressor next time.

 

The first time I worked on my front suspension, I tried this method and struggled. I find it much easier with the right tools, personally.

 

They say replacing the whole assembly (shock + spring together) is the easiest way, but I don't need new springs and only shocks + a don't have the money for springs either.

 

Either way, you're putting springs on a new shock. I've done this several times on a couple different trucks. I like to tighten the spring compressor on the spring (after the coil over is out of the truck) and have it available to slide onto the new shock. You loosen the spring compressor once the threads are tightened on the new shock and strut mount (top plate).

 

Doing it without the compressor is the easiest option. I’ve done it both ways, and a spring compressor that isn’t wall mounted isn’t exactly safe either.

 

I'm pretty sure I took off the upper ball joint not the lower. It's easier and accomplishes the same thing.

 

You can reuse your springs I suppose. I wanted to just replace it all.
Inspect the strut mounts (

$39 KYB SM5640 - Mount Kit

KYB SM5640 $50 @ebay partscontainer).
I didn't need to replace but bought Eibach springs for ~$157 from wheelersoffroad, and these put the Bilsteins on the lowest setting. It rides pretty stiff.
I still need to do replace my rear shocks/remove lift block/add a leaf. Still saving up.

I haven't used a spring compress method, but this method was alright for a first timer. I have a small thread about it.

 

If you decide to replace the rear shocks yourself and have a hard time removing the top bolt on the shock, what helped me was using a wire brush with a pick to clean/remove rust in the threads. Doing this helped to remove the bolt, along with PB blaster. What helped to install the lower shock was a small hydraulic hand jack to support it, while aligning it in the slot.

 

This worked great without the spring compressor. I have the cheap spring compressors and they are sketchy. It took me 3 hours, mostly because I was also spraying fluid film and repainted the skid plate while I was under there.