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FRONT WHEEL BEARING AND HUB SOLUTION - I've done the work, you save the money!

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tacoma Marketplace (2005-2015)' started by BamaToy1997, Jul 27, 2013.

  1. Jul 31, 2013 at 6:10 AM
    #41
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    Highly unlikely. Most likely they just look for leaking struts and call it a day.
     
  2. Jul 31, 2013 at 7:24 AM
    #42
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    They are supposed to be inspected, yes. BlueT may disagree, but personally when I was at the dealership we would inspect everything. A failed part means more income. Why just skip over the potential to make money?

    It is not always necessary to replace the hub. However in the interest of making "bolt on kits" where there is no need to unbolt the old hub, take it to a shop, get them to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing, hope that they didn't mess something up in the process, then drive home and reinstall..... I supply a ready to bolt on assembly. You unbolt yours, bolt in my new one, and go driving.

    Takes less than 15 minutes of work on each side in your own driveway versus up to 2-3 hours the other way....PLUS, not everyone has a ride to take them and the bearings to a shop and wait for them to get changed out. It is much more convenient this way. Plus, depending on how bad the bearing is worn, yes, it can cause hub damage. I've seen it about 20% of the time.
     
  3. Jul 31, 2013 at 4:33 PM
    #43
    KenLyns

    KenLyns Lord of War

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    The few times I've been at dealers to do oil changes on a lift, I see them use a long screwdriver to pry the hub and balljoints to check for play.

    Beyond the 15k service, another opportunity to detect bad bearings is during brake service, where they remove the rotor to grind it. In any case, a bad bearing isn't instantly catastrophic. You will get noise and vibration alerting you to the defect, so you can replace the bearing yourself.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2013
  4. Jul 31, 2013 at 6:04 PM
    #44
    ruslanus

    ruslanus Well-Known Member

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  5. Jul 31, 2013 at 6:58 PM
    #45
    RadRed06

    RadRed06 Christ Follower

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    So youre telling me that all I have to do now to replace a worn out wheel bearing is take the old one off and bolt this bad boy on??? This is awesome.
     
  6. Jul 31, 2013 at 7:02 PM
    #46
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    Subb'd.

    Just getting the bearing assembly from most auto parts places is $130 or more. Then you have to either have access to a shop with a press and go to the trouble of cutting the old bearings off the hub, transferring seals and o-rings, and pressing the hub into the new assembly.

    Or paying NAPA to do all that, and hope they do it right.

    This is a great price, especially including shipping, to make it a 30 minute job. NICE. We'll be in touch when the time comes.
     
  7. Jul 31, 2013 at 7:10 PM
    #47
    CASTRATE

    CASTRATE Well-Known Member

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    Helluva deal
     
  8. Jul 31, 2013 at 7:22 PM
    #48
    whiteoak

    whiteoak New Member

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  9. Jul 31, 2013 at 9:14 PM
    #49
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    Yes, that is all it will take with these units.

    Sorry man. If I could find a viable solution I would. Unfortunately building an entire knuckle is quite expensive. The best I could do is sell "bearing kits" with all of the parts to be pressed in at a local shop. Is there any interest in that I wonder?
     
  10. Jul 31, 2013 at 11:01 PM
    #50
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Someone was there .

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    Reused o-rings and seals are probably one of the reasons so many bearings fail prematurely. Fortunately, Bill is saving people from themselves.
     
  11. Aug 1, 2013 at 4:33 AM
    #51
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    It depends on the condition. Before re-use I inspect thoroughly. If they're fucked, they get replaced.

    The reason most bearings fail amongst the crew I run with is because we're pushing oversized tires on locked axles through water, grit, and mud on a regular basis, with the vehicle loaded. No matter how good the seal job, stuff gets in and forces add up. Very frequently the bearings need replacement before the seals are even worn.
     
  12. Aug 1, 2013 at 4:59 AM
    #52
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Someone was there .

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    Not much can be done for that. Maybe Bill can source some magnetic bearings for tractor tire folks like you. :)
     
  13. Aug 1, 2013 at 5:20 AM
    #53
    CHUNKY08

    CHUNKY08 Milk was a BAD choice

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    SWEET DEAL! I wish you had gotten this together a month ago. I switched out my DR side. Sub'd for pass side when that goes.
     
  14. Aug 1, 2013 at 5:30 AM
    #54
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    Nah. Nothin for it. You just end up replacing bearings every few years like a set of tires. Front are worse than rear typically.

    Price of offroading.
     
  15. Aug 1, 2013 at 6:32 AM
    #55
    ruggedT

    ruggedT The Sticker Guy Vendor

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    Sweet... might pick one of these up. At 98k and havnt had to change one yet. I know its coming.

    Does the 4x4 include the cv shaft seal(s)? Every time iv removed the spindle both seals were shot.
     
  16. Aug 1, 2013 at 7:07 AM
    #56
    DR Da_da

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    Thank you, thank you, thank you.

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  17. Aug 1, 2013 at 8:31 AM
    #57
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    Getting several PMs with questions, and still trying to run a shop, so sorry for the delay in answering here:

    I will look into putting together a kit for the 1st gen. This will still need to be pressed in of course. Maybe with my sources I can save some money versus buying from the chain parts stores?


    Yes, the ones running oversized tires with larger offsets, or spacers do wear out the bearings faster. I always recommend that anyone who does do this considers doing the zerk fitting mod, or always use a light pressure washer to clean out the water and dirt.

    I will check into this and get back with you all. When you do check back on this thread, check the opening post because any changes will be made there.
     
  18. Aug 1, 2013 at 9:22 AM
    #58
    esse10

    esse10 Well-Known Member

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    Hate to say it but I can just buy the bearing myself for $50 average, water Seal $8, O-ring inner seal $3, locking nut $15 and have the machine shop press the new bearing in $20. Put it in myself and I'm done for around $93-100 bucks per side. ;)

    I just did this job a year and a half ago and so far so good...........no issues.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2013
  19. Aug 1, 2013 at 9:42 AM
    #59
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    And you are more than welcome to do this job yourself if you wish. I am offering a BOLT ON KIT that you simply unbolt your old hub and bolt this one in place. EVERYTHING is replaced including the bearing, wheel hub, seals, and retainer nut. it is not uncommon for a bearing to fail and cause wear or damage to the hub. Yours was fine, and that is a good thing. Now go and price that same repair if you replaced the wheel hub. That wheel hub lists at the dealer (which by the way is the only place that currently supplies this wheel hub) for almost $200. I use high quality Timken or National bearings, not the cheaper chain store bearings that while some last, many do not. So I still do not see how I am offering any disservice, or trying to overcharge anyone, as it seems like you may be implying.

    I am offering a bolt on kit WITH WARRANTY, that does not require one to remove the part, find ANOTHER means of getting to a machine shop, wait to get it pressed in and hope it was done right, then drive back to their vehicle and install it. One simply removes their old one, and installs my new unit. Done.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2013
  20. Aug 2, 2013 at 7:50 AM
    #60
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    Daily Bump.... Still working on a couple of the kits that were discussed.
     
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