Front Wheel Bearing replacement, 2nd gen 4x4

Need a little help. I've got a 2010 4x4 114k miles with stock replacement tires with about 50k miles on them and I have a roar coming from front end. Sounds like I have mud tires on. Loudest at about 40-50mph on a smooth road but can be heard on interstate 75-80mph. It seems to have gotten worst past couple months. Didn't start all of a sudden just gradually getting louder. Wheel bearing? Thanks.

 

I'm having one front bearing re-done as I type this. It's $410 for parts and labor... and that's just for one side. The bearing assembly itself is $110 according to my mechanic. So, if you have the mechanical inclination and the time, you can save a ton of labor costs by going DIY.

 

Yes sounds like the wheel bearing. You can diagnose yourself by jacking up the front end and spinning the wheel by hand. You may hear a grinding noise on the bearing that is worn. Also grab the tire at the 12 o'clock position and the 6 position -- push at 12 and pull at 6 then pull at 12 and push at 6. Any movement is movement in the bearing which is no-good.

 

Be sure your mechanic is using the Timken/Koyo or Moog bearing. The knock-offs are poorly manufactured and will fail quickly.

 

Thanks nj636. That's what I was afraid of. I'll jack it up and see if there's any grinding or play in it. Im not mechanically inclined enough to do something like that I don't think. If it was simple unbolt and rebolt I would try it but not having a press or any exp w that I'll just shop around and see what it cost around here. Thanks for the replies.

 

They have them on ebay for the 4x4 tacoma for about $110 bucks each, just install them u self.

 

Not all true I bought the BMG brand off ebay for around $50 a piece, had machine shop press them into my hubs, installed the hubs assemblies back on truck and have had no issues since 2012.

 

My mechanic uses all OEM parts.

 

I'm in the same boat. bumped an old thread looking for advice on the DIY. After reading the DIY here I don't know if I want to tackle this job myself or even with the help from the wife. I got quoted $600 here in Austin, TX to have it replaced.

 

It's really only two or so steps past a basic brake job. If you plan ahead and ensure you have some time along with some backup trans to get to work, it should be doable with basic hand tools. Some of that planning ahead may be making sure you have those tools. Plenty of less expensive 35mm sockets on ebay or Amazon, or even locally at places like Rural King or Harbor Freight. Most everyone should own some basic hand tools, to include a decent socket set and a good breaker bar. No power tools should be required if you buy a premade set of hubs/bearings.

Me, I'm going to knock it out this weekend, knowing that I have two days to screw around, a nearby rental car place for backup trans, the pizza place's phone number, some hot pockets, and a full up supply of beer. I already had a nice 1/2" drive breaker bar, but will use my sitting barely used in the toolbox forever 3/4" drive breaker bar and maybe a cheater to get the axle nut loose. Grabbed a 150 pound torque wrench for cheap at a pawn shop a few years back-150 pounds+some finely calibrated extra ass will get it close enough to torque specs. Grabbed some pre made bearings and hubs from one of the dealers here, picked up some rotors, pads, and brake hardware from Amazon because if I'm already in there, I might as well change it. The rest is just basic tools and a bit of mechanical inclination. As always I'm fully prepared to hit with some sort of penetrating spray and maybe the good old blue wrench.

BL, if you have a little bit of time, go ahead and research it, ensure you have time/back up trans, buy the parts(I don't have a press and am too lazy to find a machine shop so I bought pre-made), make sure you have what should be the right tools, and give it a shot. You might have fun and learn a bit more about wrenching on stuff.

 

have them pressed in at the machine shop.................................

 

Now that I have the truck back... whoa. That bearing was LOUD. My truck wafts down the freeway like a floating Caddy now.

 

This is as easy as unbolting the old and bolting on the new. There is a step by step guide as well. A torque wrench and 35mm socket can be rented at Auto Zone.

step by step write up -- disregard removing the cv axle
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nt-wheel-bearing-2nd-gen.189356/#post-4074919

 

You can absolutely DIY with one of my assemblies. If you'd like I can include a step by step write up with a list of the basic hand tools you will need. You can rent the 35mm socket and torque wrench at an Auto Zone or Advance Auto. You are literally 4 bolts and 1 nut away from removing the assembly if you have ever replaced the brakes on your truck. It's a 1 hour job per side.

 

The Koyo or Moog is only a few more dollars. There are plenty of other manufacturers out there, I just prefer Koyo/Timken because I have been using them for years with great success.

 

Yeah I didn't know you can get the whole hub and bearing all together. I just found your website I got it saved. There's a front end shop right down the road from me, I'm gonna let them check it out and see if that's for sure what it is and if it's one or both. If they do need replacing then I will more than likely be ordering them from you. I can't pay 4-600 bucks. Sure can't pay for both sides if it needs it.

 

What the shops charge is quite steep for reusing parts, isn't it?

A simple DIY with a complete assembly

 

Thinking about doing this myslef as the dealer quoted me 1500 for the job. but Ive got a couple of questions.

has anyone used these?

$145 DTA Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Full Assemblies NT515040G3 x 2 pcs New Fits 4WD Tacoma 4 Runner GX460 GX470 4WD Only With Studs

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Asse...D=41eKwmE%2B8TL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Im looking at Amazon as I need the parts quickly (upcoming trip).
what else do I need? do I need seals as well and if so does anyone know which ones?

the reason I had the dealer look at the truck was because of the ABS light...they noted that the senor was probably toast...I found the abs wheel speed sensors online for like 60 and am assuming that its just a "unplug the old and plug in the new kind of deal". am I right or will something need to be re calibrated? do I need to clear the code when Ive done it or should the light just turn off?
also, probably a dumb question...but Im assuming ill need a re alingment after doing all of this?

thank for any feedback!

 

$198 for both sides? and already pressed. that's pretty good. I paid about 100 a piece also for the prerunner two wheel drive 6-7 yrs ago. I just had a machine shop press them in. It's a good Idea to replace both seals since you already have them apart. The good thing about doing it the way I did is you can repack the bearings with high grade temperature grease beforehand , who knows what type of grease is in those pre-assembled unit.

 

Did you order those from your Amazon link? Curious how they worked out for you.

Thanks!