Frozen caliper?

So I went to change my front pads and rotors this weekend and when I tired to push the pistons in one of them would barely move. I went on to replace the old pads and rotors. Does anyone have any insight whether I need a new caliper or not?

 

It usually takes some work and patience to push the pistons back in. If you were able to push them back, install the new pads, successfully bleed the brakes and have them work, I don't think you need a new caliper. How far along did you get with the brake job?

 

C - clamps work well to compress the pistons. Also - if you open up the cap to the brake fluid resevoir - that might help a bit.

Pugga - why bleed the brakes? You shouldn't need to disconnect the hydraulic lines at all to replace pads.

 

You're right, not required, just always the way I've done it. Forces out some of the old brake fluid that constantly goes through hot/cold cycles with the brakes heating and cooling. I try to do a pretty long bleed to work some new fluid into the lines. I don't change my brake pads very frequently so flushing through some new fluid every 60k miles or so never seemed like a bad idea.

Plus, I've always been in the habit of bleeding the brakes anytime I mess with the piston travel (new pads or rotors).

 

I was able to push three of the four pistons in however the fourth piston would barely move it all as if it was partially seized...can just one the four pistons freeze up

 

Oh, I just realized that I said I installed the OLD pads and rotors...I meant NEW...sorry.

 

It's certainly possible that just one could seize. I'd try the C-clamp as mentioned above and make sure it's really seized before looking into replacing the whole assembly. Did you happen to hit the brakes with out the pads on, extending them past their normal travel range? If so, it might push back in hard.

 

I was able to push the piston back in with a clamp but it was significantly more difficult than the other three

 

replace the caliper.

You diagnosed the problem as a frozen piston.
Replace it.
Using c clamps on a stuck piston is not a good idea. Your forcing that piston through that problem area and wedging it all the way in. then down the road you apply the brakes and that piston sticks out. Then you start to over heat the pads and rotors.

I see it all the time. Once it is stuck, it will stick again.

 

Really you should always have the cap removed while pressing calliper pistons, and its easier on you, and the calliper if both pistons on the caliper are pressed in equally. This method proves to give them equal travel at all times. Also if one piston is pressed in before the other, it puts pressure on the extended piston, making it harder to push in. This I believe could have been your problem.

 

Thanks mike, I pretty much knew the answer to my question but I really didn't want to fork over the cash. Should I just go with a factory unit...anyone know how much

 

You really don't need to go with a factory. We have a real good aftermarket place we deal with and the prices are way cheaper. Yes sometimes there is a problem but for the most part they work real well.

I would try an aftermarket one first IMO.
I'm all for factory stuff in certain parts of the vehicle but a reman unit is becoming common. Even from factories......
just double check the part before install and make sure it looks the same and not something unusual.
Good luck with it and you'll be a lot better off.

 

Thanks

 

That's why I asked if he hit the brake pedal when the calipers weren't over the rotors. If the piston got wedged at the end of it's travel range (where it will never be under normal operating conditions), then I wouldn't think much of it. If it was frozen when it came off the truck, then yes, replace it.

 

Oh yea absolutely correct on your thinking.

 

I got a new caliper and there is a rubber grommet and two copper washers where the brake line connects. Is there a special sequence that these are supposed to go...insight?

 

Clean the banjo fitting with brake clean before removing.

They have plastic and metal pinch clamps that you can pinch off the brake line so it won't drain all the brake fluid out of your master cyl. Maked the job twice as long .

Sequence is banjo bolt to washer, bolt through banjo fitting in brake line, washer on other side then all connects to the caliper.
I have no idea on the rubber grommet unless it's a slide grommet from one end of the caliper that fell off.

Few pics might help as i'm puking my guts out from food poisoning so i'm not thinking all that well tonight.

 

There were no washers on the original caliper

 

That you know of. sometimes you cant see them until you break the connector free. Factory washers are the exact same size as the fitting and if they are dirty you can't see them. If you have a banjo fitting you have to have sealing washers in there.

 

I already replaced the caliper and it's not leaking so I think I'm good. The banjo fitting isn't the typical 90 degree job that most of us are used to. It just goes straight into the caliper