Frustrated that my truck isnt...well..a truck!

Same here. I went so far as to install a few extra D-rings onto the bed so that I have more spots to choose from when I need them.

 

The hooks on the bottom of the Bed are bolted to the frame not the side rail hooks FYi & I got a access cab with long Bed with a manual 6 speed they do have 4 door with long beds but for me to long with 4 doors plus it’s looks so much better as a access cab on the Tacoma’s love mine even tow a car with it on a trailer & have Hauled a fridge & couch with the tail gate down strapped it down to the hooks all of them no flexing or any problem.

 

Here you go. 327, 4 speed, 4X4 with ZERO rust. She's a work in progress but a hell of a good truck.

28947574_10215370174584772_1674241373718855912_o[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]
26993795_10214842866682404_2169936634964194966_n[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]
22426518_10213964492163590_4821437947327206533_o[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]
20689977_10213375654323012_6291341581658251302_o[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]
20604511_10213333228822401_977761047704381919_n[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]

And my 83 SR5 4x4 doing real work.

83[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

How can you say "zero rust" with these photos?



Sure, it's superficial, but its still rust.

Edit: unless that was sarcasm and I missed it

 

Mine carries things just fine

 

I have no problem using my Tacoma for what I do. But I also don't work construction and don't tow trailers, etc. I like the composite bed because I don't have to worry about rust. Yes, it is a little weaker, laterally, but that's why I installed bed stiffeners. I do miss the 6' bed from my old truck, but I have a bed extender which helps mitigate that and it hadn't been much of an issue. I'm not going to say much about how hard you're strapping things down simply because I don't know what you are strapping down.

The fact is these are 1/4 ton trucks, not designed for 3/4 ton work or even 1/2 ton work. You'll need some upgrades before even considering trying to fake it for that. These trucks are designed for reliability and a certain crowd, as are most 1/4 ton trucks. It'll work in a pinch for that kind of work, but don't expect it to do the same things, especially regularly.

That all being said, that GMC is badass. I love old trucks like that. I'd love to find a 70's Ford F-100 or F-Series to fix up and putt around in.

 

When people say "zero rust" when it comes to that, they're usually referring to the frame or where rust has eaten through or begun to eat through. This appears to be nothing more than surface rust which can easily be removed with some elbow grease if OP wanted to.

 

I assumed... but still seems odd to say "zero" with such emphasis.

Also, if the hood, bumper, and bed look like that, I'd find it unlikely the frame is pristine. Sure, maybe no "rot"... but not rust free.

 

You're just not loading it right, see post #40 in this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/this-guy-needs-a-tacoma.680722/page-2

 

This. And that's why I have both a miter and table saw. To the OPs point if my table saw (62 GMC) breaks down, I don't expect my miter saw (taco) to rip the boards.

 

Where are the Clampetts moving to now?

 

This was about 1600 pounds of brick and redimix for my patio foundation. Only upgrade on truck is ten ply tires. Access cab, 6 foot bed. You make your choices.

 

It just depends on where the truck came from. If that was a Michigan truck, it would be considered extremely clean for it age. If it is a Texas truck, it's probably average.

 

Use the right tool for the job bub. One of these trucks hauls weight and the other hauls Ass.

 

In the old car world, surface rust is inconsequential. "No rust" means no rust through, rust holes, rust damage etc. No rust that needs to be repaired. Light surface rust that will come off with a scouring pad on a surface that needs to be repainted is meaningless. The rust pictured below is typical of this generation of GM trucks. They are very prone to sever rust through of the roof, fender bottoms, door bottoms, floors, cab supports and frames:

images[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]
c10-buyers-guide-condition-5[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]
unnamed[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]
download[/url] by Scott Sapers, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

Oh you know, in search of a better life...

 

I don’t know where you guys are getting Tacoma is 1/4 ton from, the ratings put it in the 1/2 ton class for 3rd gens.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.torquenews.com/106/2016-toyota-tacoma-trd-road-works-half-ton/amp
Mine is a 6ft bed access cab and with my bed extender and tailgate down I’ve hauled 8 ft 2x4s and 4x8 plywood on top of that with little overhang. Yep, genuine work truck here.

 

Beautiful truck. Leave the body the way it is

 

I find the bed rack helpful from time to time.



but when things get large, long, heavy, etc I use my trusty 10' utility trailer. No sense beating the snot out of the truck. Had this thing for 20 years and its paid for itself many times over. Perhaps not practical for everyday work hauling but fits the bill for just about everything else.

 

Ratings don't mean that much, especially when 1/2 ton ratings have moved. It has to do with the size of pickup. Most F150's can haul what F350's could 30 years ago. As demonstrated by TFL, the Colorado is rated for 7700 lbs towing (with the diesel), but the tail was wagging the dog at only 5600 lbs. They've gotten a bit larger and more capable, but they're still 1/4 ton trucks. That's what the mid-size category is all about.