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fuel filter replacement?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by dylandercole, Apr 16, 2010.

  1. Apr 16, 2010 at 9:48 AM
    #1
    dylandercole

    dylandercole [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I seafoamed everything about a week ago (crank case, brake booster, fuel tank) and I read somewhere that you should replace the fuel filter after running the entire tank with the seafoa. since I was planning on doing it today along with new plugs and an oil change I did a little reading up on it and iv come upon people saying on the v6 the fuel filter is lifetime and cannot be replaced??? anyone have any insight into this?
     
  2. Apr 16, 2010 at 9:51 AM
    #2
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Thor

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    It can be replaced. Look under the driver's side (about where the seat is) on the frame rail. It's right there.
     
  3. Apr 16, 2010 at 9:55 AM
    #3
    dylandercole

    dylandercole [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yea iv already looked at it and kind of eyed out how to replace it and it shouldnt be hard but I dont want to replace something that isnt supposed to be replaced.
     
  4. Apr 16, 2010 at 11:53 AM
    #4
    TKGN1

    TKGN1 Well-Known Member

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    Just replaced mine last month. Won't hurt a thing.
     
  5. Apr 16, 2010 at 12:15 PM
    #5
    dylandercole

    dylandercole [OP] Well-Known Member

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    awsome. Question for you then. I cant figure out how to relieve the fuel pressure. how did you do it?
     
  6. Apr 16, 2010 at 12:26 PM
    #6
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Thor

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    Just crack the lines.
     
  7. Apr 16, 2010 at 12:30 PM
    #7
    dylandercole

    dylandercole [OP] Well-Known Member

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    how much gas comes?
     
  8. Apr 16, 2010 at 12:32 PM
    #8
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Thor

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    Not a lot at all. Maybe a cup or two.
     
  9. Apr 16, 2010 at 2:22 PM
    #9
    TKGN1

    TKGN1 Well-Known Member

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    Yep, crack the lines open, let it drain (might put a drain pan under it, makes a little mess). Let it drain for a while or you arms will get soaked with fuel trying to get the fittings off.
     
  10. Apr 16, 2010 at 2:25 PM
    #10
    tacomaman06

    tacomaman06 Carolina Alliance: Lead, follow, or get the hell o Thor

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    only a small amount of gas will run out when replacing the filter. the biggest pain in the ass part of it is sliding the ling clamp holder deal outta the way so you can move the lines. overall.....15 minute job.
     
  11. Apr 16, 2010 at 2:29 PM
    #11
    dylandercole

    dylandercole [OP] Well-Known Member

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    sway-a-way 2.0 coilovers, 1.5'' AAL, 1'' toytec shackle lift, Go-Rhino 3000 Grille Guard, Kicker KS6502 speakers, JVC KD-S24 Head unit, billstein 5125 rear shocks, Deck Plate mod, K&N air filter, Wheelers offroad front and rear braided brake lines, diff breather mod, power slot rotors, ebc yellow stuff pads
    ok all finished. it took me forever to get the line bolts seated right. it kept leaking when I turned the truck on. its all fine now though. thnaks guys
     
  12. Apr 17, 2010 at 10:58 AM
    #12
    crazyasu45

    crazyasu45 Well-Known Member

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    Remove the fuel filter cap...this will relieve any pressure built up in the tank...disconnect the fuel pump harness connector or circuit opening relay...whichever is easier...start the engine and wait for the engine to stall...then turn the ignition key to off...the fuel system is now depressurized...
     
  13. Apr 17, 2010 at 2:37 PM
    #13
    krlang

    krlang NewEnglander

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    My 2.4 2wd FF was under the Intake manifold, it was a little tricky but not bad.

    I bought an aftermarket one, not wanting to.

    I went to the dealer to buy one, the parts guy asked why.
    I told him I had a skip, he said OK, I asked for the shop discount, he told me I should get one from the local API, I was hesitant.

    The dealer was $30 the API was $9, I should have gone with the dealer filter.

    The Banjo fittings were perfect, the new filter came with 4 copper gaskets.
    The Filter was held on in a bracket, the through bolt for the bracket broke while trying to remove the bolt. I drilled the nut out and installed a longer bolt to secure the filter again. The filter is positioned in the clamp type bracket with ribs that are stamped into the filter housing. The aftermarket filters ribs were not as robust as the original, thus, the filter rotated while tightening the fittings after reinstallation.


    All said and done, my skip is gone, but I worry if the filter I installed is as crappy on the inside as the way its made on the outside.

    Good Luck.
     
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