Fuel Filter

I was considering replacing the fuel filter on my truck while it was in getting a new frame. I called the dealership today about what they would charge to do it while the truck was apart. They told me they don't like to do them unless it's necessary. They have had bad experiences breaking the fuel lines while trying to change the filter. The guy didn't want to give me a quote because he was almost certain I would end up paying for more than replacing the filter.

Has anyone had problems replacing their fuel filter? I have a V6 with the filter under the driverside. Seems like a straight forward replacement to me.

I also called my local shop I go to for tires and any major work and they said they would do it and it would probably take about 30 minutes of labor to do. They didn't seem to have any concerns about doing it.

 

Unless it was rusted there shouldn't be any problem. Just buy the filter at AutoZone or get oem and do it yourself.

 

x2

cheaper, quicker, and you learn how to replace it yourself.

 

Use flare nut wrenches, and take your time and slowly bend the lines gently until they release the filter. And take your time carefully starting the threads when you put them back on.

Buy a filter that includes the mounting bracket.

This is the OEM part # (assuming you have the V6, don't know if the I4 is different, I doubt it).

This is what came out of mine.

 

^^^ definitely make sure you use flare nut wrenches. If you use box end or crescent wrenches and mess up a fitting it's gonna be a major PITA to fix

 

new frame = new fuel lines correct? they re-use the old filter?

 

agreed but the trick to not breaking the lines is to loosen the fuel line clips holding them to the frame so you have enough room to move them apart to get the old filter off and the new filter on.

the lines break or kink when lazy idiot mechanics (weather at dealership and regular shops) try to bend the brittle stiff lines instead of loosening the holding clips to the front and rear of the filters location.

Toyota did make this job hard by creating such a jammed in tight fit on the lines instead of using a few bends in the lines so it has room to flex

 

I agree. What I meant is that it's easy to round off the nuts on the fittings if you aren't careful and using a box or crescent wrench

 

should be replaced every 100k or so and use OEM if possible

 

This. You want the longest possbile length of tube to deflect at a gentle angle/arc, and only use your bare hands to manipulate them.