Fuel Line Hex connector leaking

Hi everyone, first post, but I've lurked around this forum for many years. I wasn't able to pull up anything useful via searching this issue, so here goes:

I had to drop the fuel tank in order to repair the rusted-out frame. That's all done, I put it all back together (with a new fuel pump and tank gaskets) and it cranked up after a few tries. All good there.

There are 3 fuel lines leaving the tank, two of which have clamps. The other one has threaded hex fittings. I believe one side is 14mm and the other is 17 or 18mm. I noticed a fuel leak coming from this hex connection. That connection was very difficult to tighten due to the close quarters. I can certainly crank down on it some more, but I worry that I've damaged one of the two fittings. Do you guys know if that's possible? Should the hex fittings be able to spin around their hoses? Is there a way to check that the fittings are okay?

Here's a pic from another thread but it shows the same kind of hex fittings which are leaking:
https://twstatic.net/attachments/20...7e92e41cf02471de27e25d263eefbd7c-jpg.1755793/

 

The smaller is a collar to the concave flare fitting and this is the part which turns. The larger is stationary and contains the convex cone. Clean the large one inside with a scotch brite scrubbie and blow it out Apply anti seize by small artist brush on female threads. The small one has to freely slide and turn on the tubing. Apply penetrating oil and loosen it till it turns and slides freely, Clean the threads with a small wire brush and concave tube end well. Some brake cleaner spray and air blast it. Apply anti seize to male thread and tubing under it. Back the male thread off the concave end till the flared tubing can be inserted and bottoms out in the large female fitting. Slide the male fitting in and turn counterclockwise till you feel the thread drop slightly then turn clockwise till you are sure it isnt cross threaded then apply wrench turns while holding the larged fitting stationary with a wrench, You may want to invest in 1/4 open box wrenches they work better on tubing than a standerd open end wrench

 

Thanks, Black DOG Lila. I'll do that tomorrow. I was fairly certain the larger fitting would turn at least a little bit. Could that indicate a compromised fitting/jacket?

 

Although I have not seen your particular tubing connection, holding the female threaded end if it did not spin freely was my call only to prevent damage to the tubing by turning a fixed end. Apply penetrating oil and let it soak, see if you can work it around with fingers only before assuming it spins and twist the tube or snap a tight factory swage fit. If you know the male end turns freely you will be safe by holding the female fitting stationary. Turning one end clockwise while turning the other end counter clockwise (double wratcheting?) looks real sketchy because I have never seen a convex cone flaring tool but I have seen convex flare swages from the factory and brazed tubes to convex flare cones w/female threads. I am using the words convex and concave to easily assist identification for you. the proper ID is IFF (inverted flare female) and IFM (inverted flare male) Google "flare fittings"

 

Welcome to Yodaland new member. And please remember to LIKE SHARE SUBSCRIBE

 

I could not find a YouTube showing this Flare.

 

With a flare fitting the smallest piece of dirt can cause a leak

 

Ya I was lookin under my truck and my fuel filter was rusted beyond belief. I believe they say they are lifetime filters, but I wanted to change mine too.

Ya those fittings have to spin to get on the new filter. I cut mine off after alot of leaking and trying a toyota fuel filter, well I bent the hell out of the new napa filter one I got that day trying to fit my rusted and stripped fitting onto it. Well then i went and replaced with 4 worm clamps and 2 sections of fuel line hose and a new filter that i could slip my fuel line onto.

The guy at napa said these toyota fittings are metric, and they only sell standard fittings as replacements. Went to toyota parts to see if they sell.those fittings and nope....dont sell em by them selves. If anyone has a lead on these stock fuel filter flare fittings I need to buy a couple too. I hope someone can say what size they are so I can return to stock. Its been like 2 months and doesnt leak a drop. But I question the rubber fuel line after a while, i wonder if its bad for the injectors.

 

Yessssss. After over 2 months, Forrest is back in action (repairing both sides of the rusted-out frame is another story...special thanks to TacomaWorld, Safe-T-Cap, and my welder friend) "Turns" out I had damaged the flared-fitting fuel hose (the normally stationary fitting was freely spinning, therefore broken, which caused gas to leak). I replaced the hose with a $96 one from the stealership (same as pictured below) and voila! No more leaking. Smooth running. Time for a trip to the mountains!
The old hose was a to get off. I ended up spraying with PB Blaster, cutting the rubber hose right near the yellow arrow, and getting a 3/4" deep socket over the fitting with a breaker bar. I suppose after 20 years of consistent use, I should be glad it came off at all.
Thanks to those who posted. You guys & gals .