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Fuel pump replacement help

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by MikeN0107, Oct 11, 2021.

  1. Oct 11, 2021 at 2:08 PM
    #1
    MikeN0107

    MikeN0107 [OP] Member

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    Well, it finally happened, my fuel pump went kaput. Of course I just filled the tank.

    My question is if it is possible to access the fuel pump by cutting a hole in the bed? Sounds drastic I know but my truck is dying a slow death due to cancer and don't expect t to get much more than another year out of it. I've tried removing the bed without success and I don't have any option to try to drop the tank as I live in an apartment.

    I have a double cab (4 door). If it is an option the damage would be patched and I have a molded bed liner to cover my sin. I just don't know if there is enough room, kinda looks like the pump assembly might not clear the bottom of the cab.

    Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance.
     
  2. Oct 11, 2021 at 2:13 PM
    #2
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    Try kicking the tank a few times first while having someone cranking it over.
     
    Black DOG Lila likes this.
  3. Oct 11, 2021 at 2:21 PM
    #3
    moomba542

    moomba542 New Member

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    I did what you are considering on an old Isuzu PU Double cab and it was a breeze .That is what I would do if it is close to being over the sending unit access screws.
     
  4. Oct 11, 2021 at 2:24 PM
    #4
    MikeN0107

    MikeN0107 [OP] Member

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    I considered that but I'm concerned it will crap out on me at the worst time. At present it's dead in my apartment parking lot.


    Anyone know if there will be enough clearance to remove the pump assy?
     
  5. Oct 11, 2021 at 2:34 PM
    #5
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Rent an engine hoist for 40.00
    lift bed off,
    Takes an hour or so,
    Clean and paint frame while you're in there

    Screenshot_20211011-153338_Gallery.jpg

    Screenshot_20211011-153631_Gallery.jpg
     
  6. Oct 11, 2021 at 2:57 PM
    #6
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Lifting/cutting the bed will not get you the room to pull the pump/sending unit. Sorry
     
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  7. Oct 11, 2021 at 3:04 PM
    #7
    MikeN0107

    MikeN0107 [OP] Member

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    Is dropping the tank the only way?
     
  8. Oct 11, 2021 at 3:09 PM
    #8
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Yes, other than raising the cab.
    And to get it all out there now, if you have a bunch of rust going on the little screws securing the pump/sender assembly will likely twist off.
     
  9. Oct 11, 2021 at 3:28 PM
    #9
    MikeN0107

    MikeN0107 [OP] Member

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    Thank you! Guess it's heading into the shop since it isn't possible for me to drop the tank where I live.
     
  10. Oct 11, 2021 at 7:42 PM
    #10
    Andy01DblCabTacoma

    Andy01DblCabTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Are you not able to drop the tank because of rules in your parking area? The tank isn’t that difficult to drop. Is towing it to a friends house an option?

    timmy does have a video detailing how to remove the tank.

    you could also use a transfer pump to try and lighten the tank load prior to removal…
     
  11. Oct 12, 2021 at 10:48 AM
    #11
    2gr8dgs

    2gr8dgs New Member

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    for anyone looking at this job, I just replaced my fuel pump last week. I did a bit of research & saw some u-tubes. '95 xtra cab 2.7 auto 4x4. Just an FYI, I have very little rust under the truck. there are 6 bolts holding the bed on my truck, 3 on each side. I unbolted the the front 4 & loosened the back 2. I undid the shroud around the fuel filler neck. With a helper I was able to tilt the bed back enough to place a couple of 2' 2x4's from the frame to the bed near the cab. As if it had a tilt bed. that gave me enough access to pull the pump assembly out & take it to a workbench. unbolting the fuel lines was a pain, Actually most of the process was a pain, but I did it. you need to clean the top of the tank area well before you unbolt the unit. I used a wire brush & compressed air. you should have a replacement gasket for the top of the assembly, 'cause the old one might be shot. took me about 3hrs. I have a lot of tools & consider myself pretty mechanically inclined. Good luck!
     
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  12. Oct 12, 2021 at 11:30 AM
    #12
    Andy01DblCabTacoma

    Andy01DblCabTacoma Well-Known Member

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    The issue here, is that the OP has a double cab, and the sending unit is below the cab, not the bed as in the extra cab (and I assume regular cab).
     
  13. Oct 12, 2021 at 2:00 PM
    #13
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

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    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along
    I was sure that was the case .

    I would be thinking real hard about a Access hole in the Cab

    Living Here in Pa dropping the tank would mean a new fuel pump bracket and all new steel lines at best at worst a new tank.
     
  14. Oct 13, 2021 at 5:13 PM
    #14
    Potomus Pete

    Potomus Pete Love my little truck

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    All kinds 3 inch body lift/2 1/2 suspension lift. 31/11 1/2/15 tires All work done by myself for years. The only work performed by mechanic was fuel pumps. I also have a 90 Mustang 350 hp and I can never understand how come my Tacoma gets more respect Just got a 99 Jeep TJ that I rebuilt, and painted in the garage
    Raise the cab, and save yourself the misery of the tank bands not going back on correctly.
     
  15. Oct 13, 2021 at 9:26 PM
    #15
    theschnouz

    theschnouz Well-Known Member

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    I just dropped my tank last weekend to replace the fuel pump. Getting the bands back on correctly was a huge pain.
     
  16. Oct 13, 2021 at 11:19 PM
    #16
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    I took an angle grinder and cut out a 5in by 7in hole in bed just above the pump access cover...
    took me about 10 min......put some foil between tank and bed so not to ignite anything....

    cut side out of a thick poly kerosene can for the patch.....RTV in place...
    I have a diamond plate truck box so its completely hidden...
    and have the Dlx extended cab....access right near front of bed...~8in from front.

    Next pump after 150K will take 10 min and a tube of RTV.....
    Ha Ha to all ms paris hiltons.....

    Purely a work truck for me....never plan to sell it..in sedans this is pretty common practice....
    way easier than alternative.....$13 in parts (rtv & a grinding wheel) vs $800 the shop would get.....
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2021
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  17. Oct 14, 2021 at 8:17 AM
    #17
    Andy01DblCabTacoma

    Andy01DblCabTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Again, the OP has a Double Cab- The fuel pump is between the cab and bed- this technique will not work.
     

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