Fuel pump resistor

So, my original fpr died, hence the post I started.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/help-2012-taco-died.680981/
After all said and done, mechanic jury rigged this Chrysler(?) ballast resistor, and everything worked fine for the last 4 months.
Then last night that gave out, got truck going again with a jumper.
I had already bought a spare resistor, and now the truck runs again.
Hope this helps someone.

 

Interesting. Why the two different part numbers? Is the new one "heavy duty" or something?

 

Buy OEM when you get a chance.

 

Why didn't you just get a OEM Replacement. I realize in an emergency you have to do what you have to do, but a proper fix is in order when the emergency is past...

Did you realize that the ballast resistor you are using is for an old Points Style Distributor ignition system.

 

I can’t seem to find the information on the stock resistor at the moment.
But I’d like to know the the difference between your setup and the OEM.
Here is the specs for the one you have pictured.

@Jimmyh might know?
And would this cause the pump to run too slow or fast?

 

I'm not sure of the specifications either. If I had one on my truck I would go out and measure it. Not applicable to the 2.7L four banger...

But you are correct that if the resistance was too high the pump would be running slower than it should when the resistor is in the circuit.

If I remember correctly the resistor is only about 0.7 Ohms at 20 degrees C. Not very much.

0.70 - 0.76 Ohms is the specification.

So with him running a resistor that is operating at 1.75 Ohms. More than twice the resistance of OEM resistor. Pump is definitely running slow with the resistor in the circuit.

 

Good to know in a pinch. The OEM part has a big heat sink on it, probably designed for higher wattage/duty cycle than the ignition resistor. Hope the new one lasts longer than 4 months. Even at 1/10th the price it's a bit inconvenient: https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/p/Toyota__/RESISTER--FUEL-PUMP-RESISTOR/47715416/2308031010.html

 

So to answer a few questions in one post: originally when this happened, the oem resistor tanked. Garage in hick town I was stranded in couldn't get the oem part, and tried this RU4 resistor that he'd had success with a year earlier on a Tundra. Oem was $177, RU4 ~$15, and worked, for 4 months. So being cheap as I am, went to get RU4, but no one had it, and showed me this RU11, which looked so close and does the job on test.
But now reading your posts ( thanks to all for the insights), I'll see if I can return the unused RU11, but regardless get the proper oem resistor.

Edit: oem was $117.

 

There are times when we all “do what we have to do” to get by.
If I were to do what you did, I’d try to get resistor as close to OEM spec.
Of course, you’d need to know what OEM spec is, and the specs on the temporary resistor.

I hope you do not think we were criticizing you.
I was just stating there may be a better alternative than what you were running.

Anyways, Hopefully the mechanic didn’t cut your OEM connector off?
If he did, you are probably going to have a hard time getting the OE resistor working.
I’d check a salvage yard first, it’s going to be easier than finding the right plug.
The plugs are not pinned and you have to pin them yourself. PITA.

 

Just to interject another thought. As long as the resistance is within the ratings 0.70 to 0.76 ohms and wattage rating any resistor should work fine. The problem is that we don't know what the factory wattage rating is.

As far as that goes you could jumper the connector and run it on high speed all the time. Then we don't know how much more wear or strain on the fuel pump is happening.

That is why I recommend going back to OEM or aftermarket designed for this purpose.

Best of luck to you regardless of what you choose...

 

This is one item you do NOT want to get aftermarket on. Get OEM.

 

I believe I found the specs

 

I believe there have been a few guys bypass the resistor to “get by”.
As far as I know, they all made it home.
Like you say, we don’t know how “bad” this is for the pump.
But it’s been done. I’d probably want the pump submerged at all times if I were to do this.
As in, around 3/4 tank of gas at all times just to be safe.

 

Still need the wattage rating for the resistor. We could determine that by getting a current draw through the resistor then multiply that by voltage to get the actual wattage generated. Nudge the spec up a bit from there...

 

Resistor Assembly Fuel 23080-31010 | TRDShop.com (carlocktoyotaoftupelo.com)

23080-31010 - Genuine Toyota RESISTER, FUEL PUMP (toyotapartsdeal.com)

 

Thanks again to all, I'm not taking any of this as criticism. Wish I'd known al this after my first original post. The resistors I'd had put in and the xtra I'd bought I believed were just as good as original, but obviously not.
The original that failed cost me +$300.00: towing, motel, rental, diagnostics and alternate part.
So I bought a second alternate part as spare, in case of failure, not knowing ohm specs and whatnot. Thought a resistor is a resistor. My forte is welding, not electronics or auto mechanics. ( I learn a lot on TW, thanks again.)
So time to stop cheaping out, get the right piece when needed.

 

Man, my truck started having the same exact issue two days ago. Swapped the plugs and coils thinking that was it. It wasn't. So I just checked the FPR and bingo. New one is ordered. Tacoma World with the save again!