FUEL PUMP RFI ( ham radio related)

He has a second gen tacoma, which uses a different engine ( if his is a 6 cyl) . Mine is a gen 3, which uses a different motor and adds a bunch more electronics....

 

Depending on the frustration felt at dealers, the Tactrix can be worth it. LoL!

 

Have you tried a different HF antenna to eliminate the antenna itself as being prone to RFI from the fuel pump? A 20M Hamstick clone or a 102" whip should suffice for a test antenna. Just a thought.

Don't forget to use a tuner if you try those 2 choices.

 

I would be inclined to look into the radio/install first, granted my install is in an earlier truck but I get close to zero noise with 3 different radios covering 80-6 meters and 2, 440 and 220. I would think Toyota at least had some look at RFI issues during development they are kind of responsible for generated noise. The only toroid I have is for the screw driver motor but that's not about RF per say. If you feel it's truck generated try a large mix 31 on the coax with several wraps close to the radio antenna input.

 

I started with ham sticks prior to the screwdriver. no change in noise based on location and antenna

 

I have a mix 31 on the antenna feed at the radio wrapped around about 16 times. there was no change

I know its FP generated as I just unplugged the harness that feeds the frame mounted FP ECU, ran the truck with the fuel in the lines, and while running, there was ZERO RFI. Plug the ecu back in the power the pump, and noise is back

 

Also, look at my videos using two separate spectrum analyzers, neither of those are powered by the vehicle or the radio. those are straight from the antenna to the analyzer. That rules out the rig/power.

 

this was just tested by unplugging the fuel pump ECU, and running the vehicle with residual fuel in the lines.

No fuel pump, no RFI


https://youtube.com/shorts/RkH0UMQEhz8?feature=share

 

Well that is certainly not what i would call direct to battery. The CB and relay (how clean is the low power switch V ??), and grounding to various different parts of the frame for the same system seem highly suspect. That alone might promote ground loops and various bad behavior.

Before going too crazy, I would suggest you get 2 pcs of 12ga wire and simply route along the desired path. But one end connects to battery and the other end connects to the ham radio, no other connections, both + and - wires. While you are at it that antenna ground goes to battery too. Worst case is just side by side wires, but you can twist them together (use a drill) to reduce EMF.

See what happens with a true direct to battery connection. Then post up what you find.

 

You do get that the noise disappears , when the antenna is disconnected…. I would still have it if I disconnect the antenna and it was being injected from the power circuit.

 

Not to be a dick but you guys are having the OP repeat himself WRT the spectrum analysis he did.. the radio wasn't involved with that test, as he attached the AE feed directly to the test equipment.

Soooooo it's not his DC feed that's causing the RFI.

 

Took me a while to finish the post, sorry didn’t see those updates. Carry on, I will watch from the bleachers.

 

Ok, here is the same radio exact radio ( my portable
Setup) , hooked up to its own lifepo4 battery source, the ONLY thing that is the same is the fuel pump and the antenna.
If you want, I’ll go get 3 more antennas and hook up to show they ALL do the same thing , and the common denominator here is the fuel pump spews more RF than a teen shooting unborns into his happy sock while watching porn hub


https://youtube.com/shorts/GETHweZ-mpw?feature=share

 

I use to hook directly to the battery negative post on older cars when putting in my radios, but with newer cars, a lot of them have battery management systems connected to the negative post. With those it is recommended that you connect the negative wire at the battery’s chassis ground point. 73’s

 

I think fords have this same problem and they have a TSB for it. I think your best bet here is to install a filter as close to the pump as you can get. Reading through this it seems you have done your homework and isolated it to the fuel pump.

 

I’d go with your first thought, wrap some wire in a toroid and see if that fixes it. I probably wouldn’t mess with capacitors unless someone with some experience with pwm systems helped with it. I think capacitors have a tendency to mess with pwm signals.

 

Also, have you done the fuel pump recall? You might get be able to get the dealer to put it in while they do the pump, keeps you from having to drop the tank. And ask for the old pump back just to see if when you power it it is the cause. Food for thought. I have been lucky to be able to get dealers to do things like this before. They usually charge like a half hour for it. They might even be able to make a pig tail with male/female ends so it doesn’t interfere with factory wiring.

 

I was getting ready to install an hf radio in my 2010 Taco. Am I likely to experience the same thing?

 

I have one of those ford kits, but those were designed pre PWM pumps....... so unsure yet. Thats a two wire setup and the fuel pump harness leaving the ECM is 4 ( one wire is shielding)

 

Im not sure my '16 falls into the recall year range for that