Fuel tank hole repair - solved

Thanks for the heads-up. This place on Sunrise in Rancho Cordova? Exact name you mentioned comes back to nothing, but something similar does exist on my Google Maps search.

 

Toyauto mart

 

I likely could smooth it out more, or do more "triangle" prints on it like I did to the edges.

@Gilby1000

 

Can’t tell the size of the original hole from the repair. What tool/device do you think made the hole?

From the picture it seems they went into the side just forward of the rear strap.

 

Just used a drill with the biggest drill bit they had is my guess, your could put a finger through it.

 

Tapped it through the wheel well

 

@Sand_In_My_Taco - thanks for your ongoing explanation & photos of this repair. Pls. update this thread at 2 week, 2 month, 1 year, and 5-year intervals with a report on how it did or did not hold up over time.

If this repair method is viable & holds long-term, it is vastly preferable to having to source & then drop/replace the entire gas tank when some #%!@#er uses a cordless drill to pop a hole in it.

 

I used a YT vid from a 2nd Gen owner for this.

He has updated the video a few times, I believe it's been fine for 5+ years.

 

Did you already post the YT link for that?

 

My mistake, it was a 2016.

Man does it with a full tank of gas tho, madlad.

https://youtu.be/u7q0kA_XzOY?si=goX7EKuflvvaEu89

 

Actually not drastically crazy to do that, only a little crazy.

If the tank is completely full with fuel (at least in all the relevant areas, i.e. anywhere within ~6" radius of the soldering iron) -- there is no air/oxygen available for combustion, and very little risk.

Even if it started leaking suddenly through the work area I'm not sure that a low-temp (~?? 325º F ) soldering iron would cause the gas to ignite.

 

Depends on the soldering iron, but yeah, not the worst thing you could do lol.

Still, significantly cheaper than having a shop replace the tank ($1800), or replacing the tank yourself ($500-900).

Vs 50$ plastic weld

 

Aye. Not only the cost, but in some cases even the possibility of doing it, i.e. what if it happens somewhere out in a rural area or at some highway rest stop overnight, could take half a week, a full week, whatever to get the part and have some shop do it.

Vs. having the option to DIY in a reasonably safe & permanent manner in an hour or two.

 

Ridiculous. Needs some people skills.

 

I would have used this as an excuse to get an ER tank. Glad you got it fixed and road-worthy!

https://exitoffroad.com/product/toyota-tacoma-long-range-replacement-fuel-tank-32gal/

https://longrangeamerica.com/product/toyota-tacoma-2005-2023-–-33-gallon-main-replacement

 

That's my position as well. I would like to do a trail repair and get going.

This was alluded to, but not specifically or clearly stated earlier in this thread:
The difference in tanks the OP had with the dismantler could be that the OP has an Access Cab, while most units on the road and in junk yards are going to be the Double Cab versions. I do know the filler hose configuration is different between the two, but as to the actual tank...? In the future I will look at a few vehicles to see if there is a difference.

I'm convinced this is safe with some gas in the tank, but since I carry CO2 for my air lockers, I would purge the tank before doing so. Especially if the repair is being done on someone else's vehicle - to alleviate their worries. CO2 is heavier than air and would settle nicely in the tank displacing the atmosphere.

 

"NOTE: WILL NOT SUIT 2018+ ACCESS CAB MODELS *

Toyota made some changes to the 2018+ model access cab frames which don’t allow this tank to fit the truck. Do not order the tank if you have this model."

That was from the Exitoffroad long range tank.

 

Sadly these don't fit 18+ access cabs for w.e reason

 

What exactly is different between 2017 and 2018 Access Cab tanks? Anyone have pics?

 

It looked like the fuel pump gasket ring was thicker/had a wider area.

The fuel filler hose also was not 2 piece, but 1 piece. It was held on via a c-clip style plastic clip, and not a clamp.

The fuel filler input on the tank might have been a different OD, and it had a ridge on it. Normal tank was smooth.