Fumoto Fact(s) You Might Not Know

I don't have my truck here to look. Does the taco have the space and orientation to utilize the 1/2" long nipple version (

$37 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body Fumoto Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25, Gold

F133N)? I've only got a 1000 total mile change under my belt but my 5k is coming up.

 

For sure you have the room. I actually have the

$61 F133S with LC-10 S-Series Large Body FUMOTO Valve with Short Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for 12mm-1.25 Gold

F133S, which is the short nipple and I still have an inch of clearance. I can’t imagine the extra length is much more than 0.25”.

the website says the long nipple is 15mm while the short is 5mm. 10mm = 0.39”.

 

Never thought the oil drain bolt can be more complicated.

Reminds me of the Honda days and kids arguing over a SPOON oil drain bolt.

 

Thanks.

 

When removing the oil filter from the relocation kit during an oil change, how much of a mess does it make? I know filters have anti-drain back valves in them, but that's only effective while it's installed. Once you break that seal, the oil can pour right out... Anyone with a 22r/e can attest to this... the side of the block always gets covered in oil since the filter is on its side, break the seal and it starts to gush out. Just an honest question, because I am actually looking at putting a relocation kit on my 1st gen(I don't mind the 3rd gen filter setup)

 

OP how often do you change your oil? Once a month?
I change my oil only once a year (6 thousand miles).
The only thing that suck is I have to remove the skid plate to access the filter.

In my case the Fumoto does not benefit me.

 

I hate to be the one to tell you are wrong but, but you are wrong. Take a look at this video from a TW member. He was my inspiration. I asked him the same question. Notice in the video how you slowly back off the filter until the vacuum is broken. At that point the oil drains down into the pan without any oil escaping topside. If you gorilla it off and simply remove the filter without considering the vacuum release I’m sure you’d have oil all over the place. This is one of many tricks and tips I’ve learned from all of you.

Rick has since took my tip to drain the oil directly into a jug and get rid of that oil pan.
https://youtu.be/oOwvT8nhD7M

 

Just get an oil extractor and stop worrying about drain plugs and drain plug alternatives

 

Holy shit... I learned something new today.

 

You are correct. There’s a number of folk that love that method. I’ve tried that too but prefer the ball valve. We’ve identified there’s at least three ways to change your oil and the MOST IMPORTANT thing to remember from all of this is to simply drain it over appropriate intervals. How you do it is up to the individual.

 

The crush washer is not symmetrical. One side is flatter than the other. You place the flattest side toward the head of the plug with the rounded side towards the oil pan. Upon tightening the washer, hence labeled “crush”, gets compressed down to make for a better seal. Here’s an example of a similar crush washer.

So, there is a right and wrong orientation when installing these washers. With a Fumoto you install it once and forever sidestep all of the potential errors one can make as I point out in the initial posting.

 

I change my oil every 5,000 miles which is approximately twice a year. I also pointed out here in the post that I actually drain my oil once a month to run it through a 2 micron bypass filter that I have setup on a bench.

reference post number 55.

 

I have one… love it.

 

I think the thing about Fumoto is the people who have one love it and people who don’t think it’s stupid and a bad idea.

 

Possibly they don’t know what they don’t know. It’s easy to criticize anything you think you know but until you hold one, install one and use one you are just guessing. I wouldn’t bother with a Fumoto valve if I wasn’t so OCD about my oil and I completely understand their desire to use the regular drain plug. What gets their panties all twisted up is they don’t like that some of us prefer a different process.

I don’t post here to convince those who prefer a different process. I post here to inform those who don’t know about the valve and just might consider using one.

I don’t think they will admit it but I believe a lot of people, if they’ve read all of the posts, learned at least one thing.

 

Would you mind sharing a pic of your oil filter set up? I’m kinda interested in this as I’ve never seen one on a home bench before

 

I never changed my crush washer before getting a Fumoto valve. It never leaked.

 

Yes! Yes! Large nipple!

 

Here you go.

Obviously I have an empty container but when I drain my oil the left-most tube goes into the bottom of the container. The left tube sucks up the oil, passes through the pump and then into the 2 micron bypass filter from Amsoil. Upon going through the filter the oil gets dumped back into the 2.5 gallon polycarbonate jug through the right-most tube.

Approximate costs.
$15 pump
$5 polycarbonate container
$40 bypass filter
$65 filter mount assembly
$20 various fittings

I pump it for about 15 minutes. The pump rate is 1.5 quarts per minute which means I pump 1.5 qts x 15 minutes = 22 quarts of oil in that timeframe. With 6ish quarts in our engines it means I cycle my engine oil through the 2 micron filter approximately 4 times each month.

You might notice that I store my tubing upside down to prevent the oil from escaping during storage periods. I cap each tube to maintain the integrity of the oil and the system.

Notice the valve on the container that allows me to easily transfer the oil back into my engine. I also have three vehicles that all use the same

$54 0W20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W20 oil so I get good use out of this setup.

Hope this helps.