Further Diff Issues

Hey y'all, come to you again with more lessons learned about my front diff.

After ruining some spider gears a few months ago, decided to put an Aussie in. Despite the huge amounts of banging around turns, it was fine for a while. Broke one Autozone CV, replaced it a month ago. Last week, blew the new CV. Warrantied it out at O'Rileys (where I purchased the new one). Had issues going in, as if the CV didn't have enough droop. Eventually forced it in, it broke within 10 feet, we towed the truck back to Austin.

Take the skid plates off and found this:


Well, that explains why the CV didn't have enough flex! I told my buddy I thought that could be the issue, but the consensus we came up with was "no way...". Well, yes way.



However.... I have absolutely no freakin' idea why it happened. It was so bad it tapped the oil pan. Yes, I understand it was probably the torque put through with the Aussie. I have no idea how much play the bushings on the cast iron brackets are supposed to have, but both have a lot. Could this be the issue? There is no cracking in the bushings at all.

Assuming it was the ring gear after listening to the internet, I grabbed a 4.10 front diff out of a 4runner not even sure if it'll fit into my truck since it was made for manual hubs, I'm thinking I can swap the brackets in the back where the wires and such go into and make it work since I was able to jam my destroyed CV can into the 4Runner diff.

To add injury, I can't get this damn diff out. I understand if you're reading out of context and you see "diff is crooked" and "can't get it out" you'll jump to conclusions, but I think its just me being an idiot. After losing patience, a buddy jumped under the truck and ended up doing all the heavy work. We're struggling to line the diff up to get the last bolt out in the rear of the diff by the drive shaft where that hex thing came out. If that explains it. Sorry, i'm not a mechanic I just like working on things.

My question is... what in the world should I do? If I can return the diff, save myself a locker and some money that'd be cool, but that Aussie really doesn't seem to like being in the truck. The kicker is that I have absolutely zero idea what's actually wrong here. I'm most likely purchasing a Tundra tomorrow as a DD and can tow the Taco in an emergency. However, i'd like to get the truck out of my buddy's driveway before I head back to school ASAP (when the truck is done i'm going across the state for school) and would have peace of mind if I can get the truck driving with functioning 4WD.

 

Cant say if there is anything else wrong here, could be! But a non selectable locker up front on a ifs vehicle is definitely not an advisable mod!!!! Shit thats hard on a front end! If you wanted a locker of that type it really shoulda went into the rear. Maybe its already locked too and you wanted true 4wd a front selectable shoulda been utilized...

Hopefully everything goes back together without finding major damage!! Like i said idk if there is an underlying issue/cause there but i really wouldnt be suprised if the locker started to "torque" the shit ouuta things... It kinda looks like something that could happen because of front end bind...

 

Yeah, the reason I went with an Aussie is because of money and the fact I shredded some spider gears. Lesson learned for sure

 

Yeah, it happens...I've certainly learned lots of things the hard way!

 

Dont think this was caused by locker.

 

You think it was from hitting something? Thats the only other thing it seems could possibly tweak something like that.

 

Even so, when putting it back together i'm not even sure what to replace because I have no idea what went wrong and what is broken. Something is wrong, the diff looked like you hucked it and it smacked a rock. However, I have 1/4" skids and have been babying the truck lately...

 

Posted about the same time, when the CV originally broke I was trying to climb an undercut rock no chance of it hitting anything when the initial break occurred.

 

Strange...with having HD skids and never hitting anything i dont see how it could be anything else besides the front bind? Maybe the cv breaking caused it? Really doubt it and have never heard of a cv causing anything remotely close to that but who knows?

 

Granted the CV was at full flex, but it was veeeeery slow tire rotations. I just don't know what to fix now to get the truck back on the road, because getting it out of the park was a nightmare.

 

I mean. Theres guys on here running locked front ends with 35s (a couple psychopaths on 37s) some with chromoly cvs and ive never seen anything like this before.

I would think cvs or carrier itself would go before this should happen. Actually id like better pics to see exactly what happened.

 

Yeah i hear ya....


Hey op , id also like some more pics of the area if possible? Maybe there's not much to see but your initial pic isnt tellin us much.

 

OP, any aftermarket CV axles will be significantly weaker than OEM. Regular non-offroad pavement pounders can likely get away with running the cheapies. But with wheeling at full flex and with a locker, you'll definitely need OEM CV joints to have the best chance at avoiding breakage.

 

Its all already apart, just not really sure what to take pics of too be honest because I don't see anything wrong... It's currently on a buddy's shop we'll be working on it this weekend.

Yeah, its a mistake for sure but holding out until I can grab one from a salvage yard

 

Your passenger-side mount looks totally tweaked. Should be more or less parallel with the frame. I'm guessing there are some sheared bolts or something fucky going on with the mounting. In case you're still having trouble getting it out, you need to rotate it forward and down to get the stud out of the rear cross member. I remember it was a bitch the first time I did it - by the third time it only takes about 30 seconds.

Post up pics when you get it out, hopefully the diff is ok. As others have said, that aussie is gonna be problems with the IFS, and you should run OEM or RCV shafts. Keep the chinese ones for trail spares.

 

Yeah know the bracket looks tweaked. Thought the bolt that mounts the front through the bushing would be banana'd, but it came out no damage and as easy as any of the others