GA Tacoma Owners BS Thread

Based on the intended usage you’ve described, the answer to your question is: No, you don’t ‘need’ extended travel.

Now if you want extended, get it. If your wallet can handle adding clickers and you think you’d enjoy playing with settings, again, go for it.

I’m like Josh in that I wouldn’t allow lead times to influence your decision.

 

Im just wondering if I’ll want the clickers. I had them on performance cars and liked them. Also, I don’t want to go over 2.5 in or lift or so as I don’t want to deal with breaking axle boots and driveshaft vibrations so at that point I really don’t think I will see a difference in extended if I’m not going more than 2.5 in or so.


The real debate is over extended vs standard I guess.

 

For your purposes, I would just roll standard.
I say that from experience, while I do like playing with stuff. I got some super nice Fox shocks on mine and I have no clickers.
To be honest I most likely would set it and forget it.
Like you said your on the road 90% of the time, I think the extra money you would spend could be spent elsewhere.

 

If I were buying today, for similar uses, I’d be getting standard travel. No clickers up front, clickers on the rear.

 

For payload/trailer purposes?

 

Yup

 

Cool.

decision made.
Standard travel
remotes F+R
Clickers on rear

no ucas for now. Want to do more research

 

All of the above. The rear could benefit from some adjustability depending on what your doing with your truck on a given day. The front will be pretty constant. If you add weight such as armor/winch, a spring change will be a better correction vs clickers.

 

going with 650s in the front and icon AAL in the rear. Have front skid and sliders.

I like that hybrid bumper. May look into one

 

@iK0NiK
You still got that other AAL lying around?

 

Sure it’s not the needle bearing?

 

That’s who I’m buying from

 

I do, but @grant318is has claims to it.

 

Since we are on the topics of Tacoma's and their touchiness. Has anyone else had a surging issue under acceleration. Kind of like it is stumbling while you are trying to get going? It is especially noticeable on cold mornings even after letting the truck warm up.

 

That’s who I was asking for

 

GD Drive by wire shit. It’s like DOS, got to let the cobwebs clear before it knows it’s a truck.

 

What’s side of ATL on you in? I will meet up with you and check it out. I have had a similar issue with my 2nd gen. Went thru wheel bearings, balancing tires...more wheel bearings carrier bearings.
So I got a close buddy that ran Toyota South, and we went thru some exhaustive shit trying to pin point this vibration.
I knew it was coming from the TCase, cause I have a crazy skill in pinpointing location of sounds.
With that being said, I found one vid on YouTube in which a guy placed a camera under the truck. Sure as shit it was the Needle Bearing.

 

Check this out:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bad-needle-bearing.544088/

 

Some have had luck with one piece driveshaft... Two piece is not necessary for the length or angle. And that saves trying to shim the axle to find that perfect angle.

I learned to live with it after i brought my 2015 with 20 miles on it back and was told it riding worse than my GM trucks with 200k on them was normal for a brand new Toyota.

 

I just read the last few pages. There is a very good chance your needle bearing is bad like @Built2Ride said.

I'm in the same area in Marietta - probably a bit southeast of you. Get on 41 or a similar road that's easy to get it up to ~50 that's straight and put it in 4wd. If the vibes are gone, it's 100% the needle bearing. The needle bearings on the CVs are strange, some people have issues with them stock, some lift their truck and have no issues with them. There's lots of documented cases of stock trucks with needle bearing failures with the same symptoms you're having.

You're absolutely fine in 4wd on sweeping turns on roads, just turn it off before making a tight turn on pavement. If you're new to engaging this, read the manual. It's easy, just turn the dial and drive. It'll engage while you're driving.

The needle bearings are on the CV joints to the front wheels, which are disengaged unless you're in 4wd. Putting it in 4wd means you're putting torque on the shafts through these bearings, which without torque, will just be idling. The torque takes up the slack with 4wd engaged, narrowing down the vibration to the needle bearings instead of the tires or wheels.

You need one of these: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html - if 4wd makes the vibes go away.