GA Tacoma Owners BS Thread

You're not off-base, your terminology is right and I'm wrong. I just looked it up, it's extended travel - here's my kit: https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p193/FOX_Level_2_Kit_w/_OME_Dakar_Leaf_Packs_-_05__Toyota_Tacoma.html Hopefully State48 has some good info for me, if they don't, I'll send Headstrong an email and ask. It's just a hassle - I daily drive this thing, so between the weaker factory coils and my lift in the rear, my headlights will probably be pointed straight down.

As for bump stops, uptravel up front is fine. Since there's no spacer on the coil (just preload), I have factory uptravel and don't bottom out the coil up front. I bottom out on the factory bumps without jarring up front, and in the back the sumosprings keep it from CLUNKing like it used to with all the weight. I'll get Wheeler's bumps up front eventually for maximum plushness, but it's not high on my list.

 

Same concept applies to the front also if your shock travel is too short. I was just using my rear as an example.

 

More of a "Bourbon Drinker" Old Fourth is distilled in Atlanta, its ok...but at $50 a bottle I'm out

 

The issue you are having is from lack of downtravel, I get it once in a while..but only when riding trails if a tire falls into a Big hole. Cheap solution (good bumpstops) they will soften the blow when the bottom drops out, more expensive would be adding more droop via extended shocks and then have to have UCA's that will allow the extra inch of droop. Probably the cheapest option even though I hate to say it....back off the preload, it may only need a 1/2"

I believe our trucks have 9" of travel 10" if you go extended and UCA. Based on a 60/40 Compression to Droop that about 5.5" up and 3.5" down add 2" lift and now your at 7.5" up and 1.5" down....so any dip or hole that is 1.5" or more....bang.

Could also lift a wheel off the ground, jack it. Cycle the wheel down to see where it hits..or where your being limited...on the same not take measurements off the fender to the hub center and compression, static, and full droop this will give you some good information

Also another thought, probably doesnt matter just thinking differences between our trucks since they are very similiar....sway bar still there?

 

Check with Marie @HeadStrong Off-Road . They may be able to set you straight as well, especially since you are already a customer.

Yeah...not looking for anything $50/bottle. TX is a premium taste with a slightly higher than Jack Daniels price tag. I don't recall the price, but it was darn good for the price.

As stated. Start by dropping the front just a little. You have nothing to lose. Try it for a week and then adjust back if you don't like the stance or the change isn't significant. The longer spring may well be an option.

 

'Twas me!

Post up a pic of what your preload looks like. I'd start with that as it's cheap and fairly easy to accomplish. Also how long have you had your shocks? Next time they need a rebuild I'd ask them to take out that spacer so you will have the extended travel.

 

Well you definitely let me know when you do! I'll be here and I can also help ya with suggestions.

 

Alrighty GA, I'm DJing every Thursday at the local radio for Haines, Klukwan, and Skagway from 1-3 Alaska time (5-7 East coast). It's country but I swear I pick good stuff. It's kinda funny... I read off ferry schedules, marine weather and tides, and people communicate through me to others (small town stuff).

Go to KHNS.org and there is a "Listen Live" link on the front page.

 

DM sent Dave.

 

Y'all know that saying about if something seems too good to be true?

https://www.treesoo.com/smittybilt-...b--12000-rope--98512---2o-waterproof-capacity

If that price is right, I'd order now. Somehow, I don't think that is an accurate price.

 

ehhh

 

That all makes sense, I don't have a lot of downtravel. I don't bind on anything when I'm at full droop, so it's not hitting, I think the coilover is limiting me. No swaybar, 700lb springs mean that thing is gone!

I have probably 1.5" of thread showing. It's a good bit. They're 2 years / 30k miles young.

Wow, great info. Thanks Erick. I replied.


Overall it sounds like I need to start by lowering preload. I'll lose lift, but I'll have the default wheel position more in the center of travel instead of at the bottom of travel. I asked Erick this, but I'll post here too in case anyone else has opinons... I want to maintain height with less preload, so I'm thinking of running less preload, a small spacer on top to maintain height, and get a bigger bumpstop (or bumpstop spacer) to then limit uptravel so the coil doesn't bind or bottom out before the bumpstop. Thoughts on that?

I really don't want to lose ground clearance. I've beached the white whale twice - once on the sliders and another time on the IFS skid. The former involved a LOT of digging and the latter was in a creek crossing - didn't even see it coming. I managed to back off of it, but it left a grapefruit-sized dent in the middle of the steel skid.

 

I'd recommend not getting a small spacer. I've never seen anybody do that with an adjustable coilover so....

If you don't want to lose height I'm pretty sure you can just get a longer coil but same spring rate, I could be wrong as there has been a few conversations about it. Also if you don't want to lose ground clearance get bigger tires

 

I guess longer coil at same rate = less preload? I'm a bit unclear on the physics there. State48 suggested that too, but indicated coil bind can be an issue with uptravel depending on preload.

I already have 33s and a CMC! Maybe I should just slow down. But I don't wanna.

 

Yup that's it exactly. Just have to see if your shock manufacturer has a spring like that if not source one from somewhere else.

 

At this point, I think you know what you need to do.

If it were me, I'd drop it down half an inch in the front and call it a day. I doubt anyone but you would notice. Second option to replace the spring if the mfg has a longer spring option.

 

Start with backing off the preload on your current setup. Swap out your bump stops. Go to a longer coil last.

 

Example pic below-On our 3rd gen build, We didn't like the way our 3.0's rode with the 15" 550lbs springs from King, we had too much weight and max pre load on them and at the time they didn't offer the 15"-700s like they do now.
So we swapped over to a 16" 650 rate. took off all of the preload on the pass side, because the 3.0s adjust from the bottom-only gave the driver side 2 spins. Yields 2.75" of lift with its natural compressed pre load and luckily for us no coil bind. This set up played out well for us-but a standard mid travel 2.5 shock will likely have coil bind issues in this spring length- this is the spring length I have on my +2 LT build for comparison.

Guys with Fox and ICONs will sometimes change out their 13" springs to a 14" springs like what King/Radflo typically come with, and they increase spring rates which takes a lot of the pre load out of the equation but the spring still has to naturally compress over the shock body for that extra inch regardless. So folks end up over pre loading the springs, now creating coil bind issues, because the springs space is reduced and now you have created a spring bump stop effect that now drives that compression force in to top plate resulting in cracked or broken top plates. Most coilover shock manufacturers never recommend a top shim. What we have found is the Tacoma (Tundra, FJ, 4R) front end geometry will allow for extra length, CV angles remain good as well. Its always good to have a better set of bump stops when lifting the vehicle. A 1/4" shim allows for almost a 1/2" of lift on the driver side, about .75" on the pass side, allowing the coil spring preload to relax about 2-3 drvr / 3-4 pass threads/turns. You will need longer hardware in the top mount.

Dave Ekstrom/Coachbuilder has been doing this for years with great results for Tacomas/Tundras. https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...-shim-provides-50-of-lift-tacoma-4runner-2005

In the shop we do this only for specific/extreme applications where we know more pre load is imminent and typically limit shim use to only one 1/4" shim per side and usually on Tacoma builds we try and stay away from 700s because we can accomplish the same ride height with 650's (for less harsh bottom outs) unless the customer is rocking ARB bumper set up.



https://www.tacomaworld.com/media/3...ength-lca-650lb-16-eibach-spring-swap.618864/

 

Well I picked my diff core from the shop, packed and shipped off to ECGS and arranged everything with them up in Raleigh. With any luck that isn’t bad, I’ll have my truck by end of next week but it’ll probably be that following week.
One thing if my rear ever breaks again I’m going after market on a beefier axle. Or I’ll sell ole berthastein.