Game Changing LCAs (BTFFabrication)

No matter the cost really, if these don't interfere with my RCV's, take my money...

 

so this might be a good in between to get to 35. JD fab kit is awesome but i think way to overkill for me as my truck for camping.

 

I have 35's fitting just fine without these. SPC uppers, and lower eccentrics maxed and deleted. These would let me fit 37's for sure, but I will need to do some cutting of the front area behind the headlights and under the battery.

BUT! These should fit 35's without all the cutting and banging to the body mount and pinch weld.

 

so simper version of JD fab for people like me

 

Pretty much unless these are ridiculously priced I'm in, hope they are released soon, my lower control arm bushings are smoked & I don't feel like doing it twice!

 

ditto

 

... count me in as well ...

 

Definitely interested, right now I am running aftermarket UCAs and LCAs. Thanks for the info.

 

Easy there Richie Rich, give us peasants a chance!

 

I should say “within reason” haha. Like same-ish price as the rest of them.

 

Do I assume correctly that there is still a chance of 35’s contacting top of the wheel well when the suspension is fully compressed? This product only solves the issue with the cab mount and rear wheel well?

Also do I assume correctly that caster would be dramatically increased unless adjusted for with the UCA?

 

100% you will contact 35’s into your upper wheel well if you do hard wheeling. That’s a fact no one wants to admit.

I had to limit about 1/2” of uptravel with adjustable bump stops to keep this from happening. I’m pushed all the way forward with my lowers and all the way forward with my SPC uppers. If I was any further forward I would be making contact with that area behind the headlight.

Here is some pics of mine, you have to really tub the shit out of these areas if you wanna truly not rub or limit your up travel.

it’s also pretty dependent on your coil settings as well though, the more you lift your coils, you lose down travel and gain up travel to an extent.

 

I hammered the fuck out of my inner fenders. No rubbing anywhere. Uptravel is not limited either. The 35x10.5 is super easy to clearance compared to a 12.5.

 

FOR SURE on the 10.5, Fitting these was poop. I would hammer up my fenders more but my dual batteries are right there and take up every single cm of that space.

 

My 10.5s cram so bad that the whole inner fender is breaking in half/front clip is now sagging

 

You're saying both the LCR and the UCA ball joints are moved all the way forward? And you still have enough +caster for a good alignment?

My understanding is that the LR UCA should have the ball joint neutral or pivoted towards the rear to compensate for the more consequential LCA that has more influence on the position of the tire. That's why the rear cam bolt on the LCR is rotated outward, and the front is rotated inward, moving the hub in an arc, towards the front. Being that the rear mount is parallel to the hub and the front mount is offset.

This write up helped me a lot. I thought the LR UCA should be set with the ball joint swung to the front and the LCA is tuned off that, but it appears I had it backwards.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-that-wheel-and-love-alignments.594309/page-7

 

So my lowers are maxed and eccentrics are completely deleted. My SPCs are not fully maxed forward, but they are on setting E, which is -1.0°

The lower does for sure have the most effect though. My caster is currently at 3.2° like this. Truck rides great, tracks great, turns great.

I don’t even come close to hitting my cab mount or rear of the fender well, but I did stuff my entire tire straight up into the underside of the fender. I remedied that by adjusting my bumpstops down a little.

You can really only do this with SPCs or I guess the Icon billet adjustables.

 

My 10.5s cram the inner fender so hard, the whole core support is basically cracked off from the firewall haha. So in theory, if you really bottom out the suspension (and the 1" the cab/frame flexs) you need a pretty decent bumpstop spacer to account for it, even with these new arms.

 

What’s your wheel offset???

35’s are such a giant pain in the ass, the JD fab weld on inner fenders are a solution but I don’t really wanna give up my dual battery system…

https://jdfabrication.com/products/tacoma-inner-fender-replacements

 

I run the SEMA wheels and super bumps and have no issues with hitting my inner fenders. No bump stop spacers and I hit the bumps often. I’m guessing since I hammered them and didn’t just let them self clearance, mine aren’t ripping apart yet.