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Gathering parts for clutch replacement... U-joints?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JDBECK23, Dec 4, 2010.

  1. Dec 4, 2010 at 5:19 AM
    #1
    JDBECK23

    JDBECK23 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Jesse
    King George, Va
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    Gents,

    Getting ready to do my first clutch replacement... somehow I've been able to avoid this job despite owning many manual tranny cars in the past.

    I've just received my Marlin Crawler 1200lbs clutch kit, and purchased a new flywheel with it, so I dont have to waste time with having the old one resurfaced. The kit comes with the pilot bearing and clutch release bearing already.

    My question is since I have to remove the drive shafts and tranny/transfer case. Should I just replace the U-joints while im there? The truck has 122k, I purchased it 3k miles ago. I've done a bunch of maintenance, but I've yet to get a grease gun to lube the current U-joints. I do get a bit of driveline thump depending on how hard I shift from first to second. My leaf springs are in good shape, so I doubt it's much to do with the axle wrap. So I was thinking about just replaceing them all while I had the shafts off.

    Any ideas or experience with this? Should I just save the coin and lube them up? Thanks in advance for the help.
     
  2. Dec 4, 2010 at 12:29 PM
    #2
    JDBECK23

    JDBECK23 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also, I dont think I have a rear main seal leak currently... but should I think about having one on hand just in case it is in fact leaky while im in there?
     
  3. Dec 4, 2010 at 3:45 PM
    #3
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    Since your under your truck & most the shit you mentioned has to come off anyway, absolutely & thoroughly check ALL U-joints for wear before just going out & buying them & I'm a fanatic about greasing evrything that has a zirk fitting & requires lube. Look real close around rear main seal, but you should change this anyway, its not expensive & since yer there.....
     
  4. Dec 5, 2010 at 3:01 AM
    #4
    JDBECK23

    JDBECK23 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that's what I was thinking... Ok, I'll order the rear main seal... Any recommendations on what kind of grease gun to get/not get for reaching all of the zirks?
     
  5. Dec 5, 2010 at 7:09 AM
    #5
    tacod

    tacod Well-Known Member

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    Dan
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    the "while you're in there" replacements balance the effort needed to get back in there. always replace the rear main when doing a clutch, because it's a cheap part and you need to drop the tranny and remove the clutch and flywheel to get at it (huge job). definitely inspect your u-joints, but if a u-joint goes bad after you button it all back up, it's not nearly as much work to drop the driveshaft again to fix it...so i wouldn't consider the u-joints "while you're in there" replacements like a rear main seal.
     
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