Gauging Interest: 8" Tacoma Component Kit

I think, like others have said, that the 300$ range would be ideal.

 

I'm anxious to here these, wish I was in town, except then I wouldn't be on vacation.

 

I think that would be a good price.

I just can't wait in general.

 

Again, that's preliminary so it's not set in stone. We'll see how things shape up.

Where'd you escape to?

 

Just to add to the price discussion- and I only speak for myself here, but if the set up you decide to go with is 'all inclusive/plug-n-play', and it provides a significant improvement of the stock system, I will gladly for over $350-400.

 

Kinda late. I'll go ahead and chime in from an intermediate standpoint. Short and sweet thoughts: When we tested the first set of drivers in Steven's truck (granted he is amped), I was personally impressed at how they performed over stock. The clarity of the whole system was improved and it created a much more full sound. Highs and mids were crisper and lows to me sounded as if they could safely reproduce lower freqs. at higher volumes than stock, which is one thing the masses want in an upgraded setup.

Really curious to see how the newer drivers may compare.

Just purely as a price comparison, I priced up a decent, budget minded system that I'd personally run in my truck with standard 'known' brands. (10" sub, amp, box, wires, front component set) Came in around $530. I know that's not the type of system we're trying to make here, but it may give some reference to what we're trying to pseudo 'replace'.

 

Would the bass be anywhere near the amount of a 10" sub? Thats what I'm looking for most

 

No, this will not replace a sub if you are looking to pound. If you want something far better than stock, with enough bass to not *need* a sub, this is a great option. This is fir the low end fill, not the bumping sub.

Steven, down in Orlando for some Disney parks with wife's family. We brought a nephew we ate in charge of this week. Sometimes a vacation, other times work...

 

What you meant was, "we brought our nephew we are in charge of..."

What I read was, "we bought our nephew and we ate him..."

 

To be honest I think the new drivers that I'm experimenting with are leaps and bounds better. I might need to bring the tweeters back a bit but I've almost got it perfect. I think I might like them better than what I normally run in the truck....and that's saying something.

But even still, I KNOW i can get more out of them by bringing the crossover frequency down a touch. They system isn't as efficient as I'd hoped for but I think it should still perform well with low power.

I also came up with another great idea (if I do say so) that could add some substantial punch/feel to the setup. We've been strictly talking about front speakers for the doors to run the whole show; which is possible. But for double cab and access cab guys (not sure what reg cab guys have) you have additional places in the rear doors to mount another pair of 6.5" speakers. It might be possible to add a "Stage 2" to this system that would give you the ability to mount two more of the midbass/sub drivers in the rear doors. Remember, cone area is king so having 4 of them working together has the potential to be fairly loud.


One pic of the midbass/sub.

 

After further testing do you still think it will require a good amount of d deadener to the doors?

 

Cannot quote in mobile view... Steven - we haven't eaten them yet, but I'm not sure yet...

Willimatic - won't know until tested in a truck other than Stevens. His is cld + mlv, so better than most will have. I am delaying my install to test this once he is satisfied with crossoverers and whatnot, to get a feel for them in a "typical" truck.

 

Only testing will tell.

But I have a sneaky suspicion that putting subwoofers in the doors will immediately require deadener. Just a hunch, call me crazy.

 

On that test day I was actually running through my head an idea similar to this. Sub driver in rear doors and midbass/tweets up front. Definitely would need some testing on that seeing as how the resonance in the cab can vary so much in such a small area. The lows in the rear seats were much more prominent than in the front.

 

JUST GET A 15! be a loc!

 

My biggest issue with "subs" in the door is the massive rattle problem. But localization may be a non issue for most. This was discussed briefly when testing with the other divers, I think Xjuice mentioned it in his truck while we were in there. A non - concern at the time with the drivers at the time, but may need to be revisited now that those have changed

 

Right, it could rattle the hell out of them if not treated well.

And you guys are right, we did talk about this and that's what lead me to think about it some more. The stock rears in Josh's double cab really helped out a good bit. For those who weren't there, we were talking about the transfer function of the vehicle. That is, the vehicle's ability to transmit bass to the front and amplify it. I felt it was stronger than most from that area. I figure this out when I had only front speakers installed and I had my head down under the rear seats when i was working on stuff down there. Bass was substantial. Great thing is that this works in reverse too. So if we put subs in that spot it could really add something up front. I don't even know if the speakers will fit in the rear doors though so don't get excited.

 

09+ AC Don't have speakers in the rear doors.

 

Suck to be them lol

But really, this is shaping up to be pretty good. I'll see what I can do about getting a passive crossover whipped up.