Gear Head's Solid Axle Turbo Tacoma Build

Sounds like a pissed off tractor with a turbo lol

 

Lol it does chug a lug at lower rpms. If I can my afr dialed in it should help smooth it out some

 

Hey! Looks like it is running. I was on a camping trip this weekend. If you have your bov after your maf it will make your truck want to load up between gears. It will go lean during spool up until you pop into open loop. A piggyback can help that, but it will always be there. Does it do it around 2k to 2.5k rpm?

 

How can I tell when it's in closed or open loop? And unfortunately my cluster doesn't have a tach so I can't really say if it's always doing it in a specific rpm range. It's going lean and wanting to die everytime I clutch in after being on the gas even if the bov doesn't open. In the vid when I'm rolling up to the stop sign you can hear me bump the gas to keep it alive

 

Buy an Ultragauge, it'll give you tach read out and open and closed loop indicator amongst other features.

 

I use a cheap Bluetooth obdii reader and torque app. It's really hard to trouble shoot over the forum. But stalling can be an air leak somewhere between the maf and the head. You have a boost gauge?

 

Wouldn't an air leak anywhere result in an extreme rich condition though? Wideband is showing full lean. Yes, I have an AEM boost gauge

 

It normal to go full lean after you release the gas. Called fuel cut. Well an air leak will go lean at idle and rich in boost

 

Anything that can be done to keep it from stalling though? I'm pretty good at working all three pedals but that's going to get annoying in the rocks.

 

Will it try to stall if you drive it very easy? If you can pull off the bov and drive around. That might be the fix. If that fixes it you need to plumb a hose to the front of the turbo.

 

It runs perfect driving it easy. It never wants to stall unless I'm clutching in. Doesn't matter if I was on the gas or off the gas before I clutch it.

And fwiw I changed my fuel pressure regulator reference so that it only see's boost, no vacuum. Figured the vacuum might be cutting fuel pressure too much since it's showing 28 in/hg on deceleration

 

Moving the fpr line shouldn't do too much at low end. -28inhg at decel the fuel injectors aren't even firing off. I might be a bit confused when you mean "clutching in" obdii reader and learning how to read the data is the best way to pin out a bug. If you change stuff around do little things one at a time so you don't get stuck in a downward hole. How close is your maf from the turbo?

 

My trucks 5 speed so when coming to a stop I'm pushing the clutch and brake. When the engine goes back to idle when I push the clutch in gauge is showing full lean and it will stall unless I feather the throttle.

Maf is probably 8"-10" away from the turbo inlet. Just have a silicone elbow off the turbo and the maf is clamped to that

 

Awesome thanks for the clarification. I'll still stand by that it is your bov throwing it off a bit. Whenever it releases any air the ecu is seeing hey I just ate this much air I should add fuel. O2 sensor is saying whoa way too much fuel. Ecu cuts back fuel. You can see it in your short term fuel trims. It will run lean causing it to want to stall. It will recover once you blirp the throttle because you need to let the fuel trim go back to normal.

 

This is what my boy adam was saying to me last night.. his words exactly.. "probably his sneezer messing with the ecu." @Gearhead

 

@Gear Head I have a ultragauge II with suction cup mount that im looking to sell for $100

Im down near Raleigh....could ship it to you

Let me know

 

Pretty sure you can buy new for that cost or cheaper.

 

Yeah I definitely only paid $70 for mine new, and it even comes with a mount that works perfect for 1st gens with the early steering wheel.