Gearcruncher HELP! (or anyone else) SOLVED FOR NOW

I read your reply to another member concerning no being able to get ones key out after putting it in park. :
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ease-without-backing-up.412153/#post-11804157

I've been having trouble on and off with it. Usually finagling it worked (Crammin it back and forth)Today went grocery shopping and no matter what I did I could not get the key out. Took it back home and disconnected the battery negative cable with the key still stuck in the Ignition. Took the Boss's car for shopping.

I purchased this part a few weeks ago:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=943606&cc=1317633&jnid=488&jpid=0

Finally finagled the old one out after 233K (I fought me hard) and replaced it. When I went to put the cable back on , the horn started beeping like crazy and it will not let me start it or still pull the key out.

I've been immobilized but this alleged alarm that Toyota swore I didn't have, and the only key I have is a copy, never had a key with a fob. I disconnected the neg on the battery yet again because it still won't quit freakin honking.

Now what?

 

Part 2 :
Went out a few hours later and my key came out. Hooked battery back up, horn started honking so I jump in and put in the key and it got stuck again without letting me start it. Disconnected battery, and the key came out. Will not start tho still.

 

Part 3: So I left the battery unhooked overnight, this am I put the slow charger on the battery. Went to the appointments and around noon I hooked the battery back up and it went thru it's honking/ lights flashing routine, jumped in the truck and tried the key, nothing. Noticed the red light flashing on the lower left panel and pushed it in, the truck started right up. Tried to turn off the truck and the key still sticks in the ACC position. Disconnected battery and key came out. I now know it has no immobilizer, so what is causing this???

Edit: Found another key to try, hooked up battery and put the other key in and no start. Still won't release without disconnecting the battery.

 

@gearcruncher
Looks like this ones for you.

 

STICKY SHIFTER / SHIFTER IS HARD TO MOVE
Most of us would disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission lever and then verify the cable is free by hopping in the truck and moving the shifter from park to low . We should feel nothing because the shifter cable is no longer connected to the transmission . If the shifter is still tight to move , we know that the issue resides in the cable or the plastic shifter cover . A quick lube job is going to fix that up .

Next , with the shifter cable removed from the transmission lever , try and manually move that transmission lever by hand . You should feel click , click , click and it should be fairly easy to move with your hands . If you cant move it by hand , remove the PRNDL switch shown on page 16 at this link , it shows the switch in question . Spray the heck out of it . Some guys actually have to replace the PRNDL switch becuase of corrosion .The PRNDL switch gets very tight when it corrodeshttp://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf

When the switch is removed , you can spray the seal on the transmission that sits behind the switch to see if there are additional problems with the lever shaft since the lever shaft is also known to corrode .
, then take a small screwdriver and pry the lever seal away from the shifter selector shaft enough to blast some lubricant between the seal until you get the lever to move by hand .Might have to work it back and forth a little but its going to free up . You should have the wheels blocked when you do this .Both of these issues are very common

Next , place the transmission gear shifter in park and " REMOVE THE KEY "
Throw the key on the drivers seat until your done .
Go to rear of truck and manually push it by hand to verify the truck is actually in park . Go back under the truck and check to see if the shifter cable lines up perfectly with the hole in the transmission lever . If it doesnt line up , adjust the shifter cable until it fits perfectly into the transmission lever . The adjustment is under the shift counsole .
Once the cable is aligned with the transmission shift lever , verify the truck will only start in park and nuetral .

 

GC is the man!!

 

Yes sir, but the shifter moves with no problem. It is neither sticky or hard to move. The killer is even in neutral or park it refuses to start. I will disassemble the floor shift assembly and see if it matches those pictures in the thread you linked. Maybe that is why it will not start as it does not realize it's in park or neutral. I will have to put the key in so it will let me shift it, yet it will not release. Should I not hook up the battery yet until it is finiashed?

 

Double check the wiring at the switch . Sometimes when removing the old switch , its easy to bend one of the terminals . You are correct . That switch tells the computer in your truck when it is safe to start in park and neutral

http://web.archive.org/web/20081209...nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans/9parkneut.pdf

 

Leave battery disconnected until you have double checked the wiring

 

Wiring double checked. re-attached plug, snapped right on.
Shifter cables lined up.
Not tight or hard moving shifter.
I am able to start if:
1.) Pull EFI fuse for over 1 min.
2.) Re-connect battery. Run to drivers seat put in key.
3.) Hit that idiot alarm button on and off when horn is no longer beeping, as it quits after about 20 honks. Light turns off.
4.) Starts up fine, all gears work.

STILL CAN'T GET THAT FREAKIN KEY OUT OF ACC!

I am convinced now that it has to do with that damned alarm that Toyota claimed I didn't have. What now?

 

If you can't get the key out maybe it's your ignition is fucked up as the alarm wouldn't not let your key out of the ignition. The new key you have may not have a chip in it either causing the alarm to go off. Try your old key again

 

Either one is the same. I never had a key with a chip in it, or a fob or a plastic housing, just the regular steel keys. I only received 1 key when I bought it, and had copies made.

 

Then maybe your problem lies within your ignition

 

I would say you are correct if the key still was stuck in the ACC position when the battery was disconnected, yet when I disconnect it, the key comes right out like nothing was ever wrong.

 

Take it to a mechanic for diagnosis? Then fix yourself?

 

I am going with the park neutral switch being out of adjustment . Did you adjust it properly ?

 

Had it originally where the old one was (in the middle), when that failed, I moved it to one side, that failed and I moved it to the other side. It only has about a 1/4 inch movement. Should I have the truck running and move it back and forth until Someone else can turn the key all they way off?

 

https://www.google.ca/search?q=How+...=NAwuWJv_G8XCjwSRgZDwCg#imgrc=ACsULVQzHqpfnM:

 

Ill try that tomorrow, as right now I'm too mad to deal with it. Thanks for all your help Gearcruncher......stay tuned for a loud scream.

 

Since you referred to the red light button on the dash, I assume you have the dealer installed "Theft Deterrent System" You can purchase a fob for it if you want to use it. I got this one and it works fine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FCHCNFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, I have attached all the documentation that I have found about this dealer installed alarm.