Gears and beers

Not sure if that "u saying it's worth" question was directed at me. The OP was originally interested in only gearing the rear diff and spending less than 1k and I was attempting to show that is possible with ECGS. Do I think it's worth it to go 4.10 or 4.46 without lockers for 1400? No. In my case I tied the gears (4.88) to the tires (34s) and used the oppty to lock the F&R with ARBs. That's what I would do (and did ). I also wouldn't recommend gearing the rear w/o also dong the front. So no I don't think it's worth it.

I do think ECGS is a good deal given the effort and skill it takes.

 

With 34's and 4.88's what kind of rpm are you running on the highway?

 

2300 maybe at 70 - I can't recall exactly. I wouldn't hesitate to repeat this setup again and personally I wouldn't go less than 488s with these tires. I also don't put many miles on the truck, and I'm rarely cruising down the highway for long stretches outside a few good road trips / year. This is a good source to compare variants in gearing -> http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html is a good source.

 

Using that Grimmjeeper calculator, 4.88 with 34's and an auto trans is just above 2400rpm at 70mph

 

Every time I do the old new tire x stock ratio / original tire maths I get a much a much lower number. Like it says for me to run 33's I only need a 4.11...

 

Go 4.88 for gears if youre gonna run 33s, or 5.29 for 35s. Not sure about only doing the rear first vs everything at the same time...

 

those calculators don’t account for the weight of load e tires, armor like skids, steel bumpers, etc

I doubt there’s anything ideal about trying to mimic a stock match given the Tacoma in stock form is already under geared to begin with and a weak engine that can barely move its own weight up a mountain highway at altitude

if it’s 33 load C and no armor then 4.10 is probably fine
Some 4Runners and Jeep come with that
But if there’s sedans in the road with 4.10 stock then it’s the minimum

Toyota probably castrated the trucks acceleration with 3.73 to get 1 more mpg making up for the fact they made an inefficient engine designed by an engineer hitting 2 rocks together in a cave

what better way for them to reach better fleet economy than do that on a truck they know only a few people are gonna modify anyway

 

Well, I certainly do want to have more gearing than is the bare minimum. I was originally thinking 4.56, but I gather that's just not tall enough with 33's? I don't intend to do a lot of armor add-ons. Full fiberglass and I'm planning on a tube bumper up front, very minimalist sliders, and...shit I can't remember the rear bumper I want to totally copy...it starts with an m...you know the one

 

I ran 4.56 on an automatic 2nd gen with 32's with just skids on it and I thought that was an awesome combo. Ran about 2600 rpm at 75mph and had tons of pep around town and on trails. I went to 33's later on and it wasn't as fun anymore.

 

Alright,so the logical conclusion I have drawn here is that I need to go with 4.88's and I need to hold off on the regear until I can do both axles. Has anyone had any sort of luck finding carriers at pickapart yards? I'm wondering if I'd be able to score a couple at a decent price as cores to send in for ecgs.

 

I’ve seen some on my local Craigslist that I’ve bought from people in the past. I got complete 4runner Rear axle with a E locker diff and actuator for $200. I also found an open T100 diff for $40 as well.