Gears and Locker or Lift?

As much as I want to do all the upgrades at once, I have to make an important decision: 4.88s and a rear locker OR 2" lift?

Background: I drive a 4cyl 5speed 4X4 currently sitting on 235/85r16s Falken Wildpeaks A/T. I plan to run 255s next tire set. I live in NorCal and a majority of my summers are spent offroading the sierras and my job requires frequent offroading on various ranches throughout California. The goal is to have an efficient vehicle that really does it all. This is obviously not going to be a rock crawler so I am really aiming to be able to handle moderate trails with ease and occasionally make it through some hard obstacles (I don't want to ever doubt the capability of my vehicle which I have in some offroad situations)

4.88s and rear locker: I already don't use 5th gear ever... and with 255s eventually I definitely wont use 5th gear. I also would like my 1st gear to be lower for offroad situations. A rear locker would inspire a lot of confidence and increase my capability.

2" lift: Fit 255s (I know these fit with no lift and dont rub if using the TRD Offroad rims, but I have no clue if it will clear with my steelies?? I believe my offset is like a 5mm difference) or 285s. Overall have a better feeling suspension setup.

Let me know what all you tacoma genius' think.

Here is a picture of my truck to make this post more entertaining:

 

Gear and locker ALL DAY before a lift and bigger tires, ESPECIALLY with your 4 banger. You'll never ever want to drive it stock again. It'll make 5th actually usable lol. Gears will just make every situation more fun and just a better overall experience. Locker is a cool bonus too.

 

Oh, also that's a super cool config. That's a truck that'll last till the end of time.

 

Get the 255s and a locker. Regear after if you think it's necessary.

 

It’s not clear what type of tire you have now (all terrain?), but tires are generally the biggest upgrade. I’m happy with my 255/85R16 mud terrains off the road. They suck on the road though. I knew this ahead of time, so I went with 2 sets of wheels and rims.

 

Many recommend doing gears and locker(s) at the same time to save labor costs.

 

Exactly this. Figured I would do them at the same time. And even with the 235s I would like to be re-geared.

Thank you!! The last of its kind.

 

The issue there is you're spending twice on labor. It's a single charge if they do it all at once

 

So exactly where does the truck fail you today, and how often?

 

Whats your budget and do you have the ability to do the work yourself on the truck?

 

The only time it struggles is on trails in the Sierras when I run into larger rock obstacles and off-camber (some instances really steep) obstacles with loose substrate.

Budget is $3,000. I would do my own suspension, but I don't really have any experience to mess with gears and a locker. Suspension-wise I would get 2" OME which is about $1600. Purchasing gears and a locker w/ an air compressor and having it installed would probably be like $3000? (havnt really calculated that one... should probably do my research)

 

Do you have approach or departure angle issues? If not, skip or hold off on the lift.

Gears and locker, along with grippy tires, would improve that the most IMHO

 

Look into East Coast Gear Supply. If you can pull the rear third member, which is not difficult at all, you can get the third member much cheaper all setup with the locker installed than paying to have yours done. Then you would just have to hook up the air compressor and switches. It is pricey up front due to the core charge, but you will get it back once you send in your old diff. I would do gears and locker first.

 

We have all been there trying to decide whats best to do first.
I agree with gears and lockers first. It sounds like those would benefit you the most right away. I would suggest, if you could maybe save up a little more and install a front locker as well. I'm a firm believer in if you open the diffs on a vehicle you take off road regularly, you put a locker in. It does not matter if you use it once a month or once a year, just get it done when the diff is open. My gear and locker package from ECGS was $3,300 after core charge return, thats for both lockers and me doing the install. I did already have the compressor. Gears, lockers, and a tune completely change the driving experience in all driving situations off and on road. Its like having a new truck.

 

I'm guessing you're 4x2?

I know things are more money here in Canada but $3k seems really low to do gears and locker. Unless you're 4x2 and going with some e locker?

ARB and full set (4x4) gears is over 3k in parts and labor is almost as high.

Edit
Looking at US prices with 4x4 gears, you're around $2600 just in parts for ARB and 4 88 Nitro gears. Can't see labor being $400 given its near $2400 here at the average $80-95/h shop rate.
The front diff from what I understand being the most labor intensive so that's where the cost really goes up.



I'd say gears and locker first like others, I'm just not sure at 3k you'll be within budget for it.
It's not something i would say skip out/cheap out on.

Don't want some crappy brand that isn't well known and reliable given it can leave you stranded should they fail and go boom.

 

Understood, but if you don't need gears, you are saving on the cost of parts. And if he's doing only a rear locker, he will still have to pay for the front gears + install.

I see now OP feels he needs gears even with the 235, so seems like that's the way to go and this shouldnt even be a discussion. To me - the truck will always be slow and underpowered regardless of gears - might as well just throw some tires and a locker on it and have fun.

 

When he moves up to e-rated 255/85/16s that will add a shitload of unsprung weight and OP says he basically doesn't get into 5th gear even with the 235s. He's gonna need gears without a doubt

 

A couple clarifications...

1) Unsprung weight is unrelated to gearing. It's the change in final gear ratio due to the larger diameter tires that matters.
2) The OP has a manual transmission and choses not to use 5th gear. That's a personal preference not being forced on him,

Personally, I run 33's with my 6MT and do not think I need new gearing. 33's only make a 6.5% difference in final gear ratio. I might consider 4.88s if I had 35's (13% difference in tire diameter and diff ratio).

 

Uh bro unsprung weight is connected since those heavy ass tires make the truck much slower to accelerate, and throw in the larger diameter it'll be even worse.

 

THANK YOU everyone for the responses! I will be settling with Gears and a rear locker first. My $3000 dollar estimate was low for gears and a locker, but I got a local estimate and it will run me $4300 which I am cool with. Appreciate it!

I wouldn't say I am choosing not to use 5th gear, I just cant maintain 5th gear at 75mph going up any slight incline with the 4cyl configuration. Proabably much different than the 6MT.