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gen 2 suspension in to a gen 1 Tacoma

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Qlueless, May 11, 2011.

  1. May 11, 2011 at 3:17 PM
    #1
    Qlueless

    Qlueless [OP] Member

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    Well my truck has just over 250,000 miles, and has seen alot of hard use over the years. The stock springs are complete trash. I waslooking for an affordable way to refresh the suspension, and maybe get a littlelift at the same time.



    What I bought was the complete front struts and a set ofrear springs from a 2010 TRD Tacoma that was removed in the first 500 miles..so brand new IMO. I picked up both of them delivered for only $156, not bad atall since one new spring would cost that or more.



    The front strut towers "look" like they shouldbolt right in, but they are about 2 inches taller. Need to find out how tallthe spacers are that bolt on top of the struts are that provide 3.5 inches oflift, to see if I need to cut the struts down some, or reconfigure the lowera-arms.



    The rear springs are 53 inches compared to the 98 springsthat are 54 inches. The "center pin" is also moved 3.25 inches back.I have a set of spring hangers that I bought for a different project, so I canjust cut the stock hanger off, weld the new hanger on 3.25 inches forward, andthen do the same in the rear. They are also 1.5 inches taller, so I may need toadd some 1 inch lift blocks to the rear.. I will figure that out when I geteverything installed.



    If everything goes well I will at least get the rears donethis weekend, and possibly install the fronts as well. The stock springs are sotrashed that it currently rides 1/2 inch off the bump stops, so just replacingthem with new stock, would give some lift. I hope this gives 4-5 inches of lifttotal, since I won’t have any spring sag. That and the 1st gen taco's weight73-395 less, so there isn't much difference in weight.



    This is my DD.



    Anyone know how tall the spacers are that people bolt to thetop of the struts to give 3.5 inches of lift?



    If I need to cut the front shocks down 1 inch, would migwelding be fine, or should I find someone to tig weld them.



    Total cost around $156-250 depending on “extra parts” that Imay need to pick up. Compared to around $1200 for new complete struts, and rearsprings.



    I looked around to see if anyone else had attempted this,and all I seen was one person saying the front struts wouldn’t fit, but I don’tsee any reason that they won’t.
     
  2. May 11, 2011 at 4:00 PM
    #2
    brelandt

    brelandt Well-Known Member

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  3. May 11, 2011 at 4:10 PM
    #3
    jesus

    jesus Well-Known Member

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    I can wait to see how this turns out I may follow in your steps please make sure to take tons of pics.....
     
  4. May 11, 2011 at 4:12 PM
    #4
    98_Mud_bug

    98_Mud_bug 98_mud_bug

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    good luck, post pics when you cut and weld your struts and coils. lol. you will trash your cv axles with anything more than 3 inches of lift, and you will not have any down travel. but i really really dont think that 2nd gen front suspension will fit.
     
  5. May 11, 2011 at 4:16 PM
    #5
    NegroTundra

    NegroTundra Well-Known Member

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    Its been tried...can't find it now but it doesnt work...
     
  6. May 11, 2011 at 8:13 PM
    #6
    Supra TT

    Supra TT Solid Axle FTMFW!!

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  7. May 12, 2011 at 7:07 AM
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    BFA

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    you gotta replace the upper shock mount bucket... the bolt pattern is slightly different and you would have to grind off the old one and weld in the new one and with that your UCA mount is going to be different with the 2nd gen so your geometries will be all messed up as well but if you a good welder and know exactly what to do and have the required fab skills then your good to go :D
     
  8. May 12, 2011 at 8:54 AM
    #8
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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  9. May 12, 2011 at 10:26 AM
    #9
    4WD

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    You got a good deal on the 2nd gen susp. which would be great if you had a 2nd gen I guess, I'd say not impossoble but prolly more work than its worth as far as an "upgrade" goes, I don't think you'd realize that much of an improvement, you should've followed some of my threads detailing the refreshing of stock springs for improved on/offroad performance in addition to gaining about 3" in lift then upgrading with some 5100's & Eibach coils for lifting the front (can't exceed 3" without upper & lower control arms) one member here is doing my MOD for this(spring rebuild) & he'll post up with feedback on his results....;)
     
  10. May 12, 2011 at 2:13 PM
    #10
    Supra TT

    Supra TT Solid Axle FTMFW!!

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  11. May 12, 2011 at 9:33 PM
    #11
    Qlueless

    Qlueless [OP] Member

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    Well I thought about it some, and I think that I will just redrill the centerpin hole 3.25 inches down the spring, and put it in the same place as the Gen 1 springs. Then I don't have to move both of the mounts, to make it work, and I may not have to move the rear mount as well.

    I measured the front struts, and everything on the top "seems" the same.. I will try to borrow a caliper from work so I can double check, before I waste to much time. Only two problems that I can see at this point is the larger center hole may not be big enough, and I may need to shorten the strut/shock some.

    If the weather is good, saterday I will get as much completed as I can.. WITH PHOTO'S
     
  12. May 13, 2011 at 8:53 PM
    #12
    Qlueless

    Qlueless [OP] Member

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    Well I started digging all of the parts out, and taking a few preliminary photos.


    Here is what I found:

    2010 Rear Springs are 1 inch shorter (53 inches long), 1 less leaf, leafsare 1/8 thicker (1/4 verses 3/8), center Pin is centered, so it's moved about3.25 inches.

    2010 Front Struts: look to have the same throw, Bolt pattern is about 1/4inch bigger, 2 inches longer.. HOWEVER it looks like the coil springs are theexact same size as the 98, except that they use a thicker steel on the spring.



    So what I’m going to try:

    Re-drill the center pin on the 2 leafs on the new springs, and use theoverload spring from the 98 spring pack (already drilled in the right spot) Iwill still try to install the complete struts on the front, by oblong the mountholes.. if it looks like the strut will fit once that’s done.. If I don't thinkit's possible to make the strut fit, I will swap the coil's on to the 98struts.. so at least I will get all new springs

     
  13. May 13, 2011 at 9:14 PM
    #13
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    Bro', what do you mean by oblonging the mounting holes ???


    Ok, couple things I wanna say here, first off I love your "jump in head first & go for it." attitude....;)


    Now the issues, I'm kinda having a problem with you drilling more holes in the springs, it really takes away the integrity of the steel making them brittle. But when you start talking about oblonging mounting holes (For the front strut at that) your going down a dangerous path dude, those things aren't a " close enough" type of job, they're engineered to set how & where they are, & the heavier coil spring is going to result in you driving a pogo stick down the road, assuming you can keep it on the road, but hey its your ride do what you want, just really think about what your doing before you do it, just my $.02...:cool:
     
  14. May 14, 2011 at 3:11 AM
    #14
    WhatThePho?

    WhatThePho? Greg Graffin 2016

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    I would advise not drilling any holes on te new leafr springs. The holes already on the springs are center for a reason. When your axle moves up and down it is applying an equal amount of force on the leafs. If you moved it back then the amount of force applied is too much for the back half of the springs and the springs might not articulate correctly. Just take those leafs off and add them to your stock pack removing the overload.
     
  15. May 14, 2011 at 5:18 AM
    #15
    VirginiaBound

    VirginiaBound Whyareyoureadingthis?

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    Pick up Bilistein 5100's for front and rear and be done with it. Smooth ride, adjustable ride heigth and you'll spend less in the end.
     
  16. May 14, 2011 at 10:38 AM
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    Supra TT

    Supra TT Solid Axle FTMFW!!

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    He wants to be different!! :p
     
  17. May 15, 2011 at 6:53 AM
    #17
    Qlueless

    Qlueless [OP] Member

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    I posted some photo's in my gallery.. But I don't have time to link all of the photo's back to this thread right now.. so if you want to see some photo's go look in my gallery..
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showgallery.php/ppuser/46146/cat/500


    I still have more photo's to upload..but it takes to much time right now..


    Anyway here is what I have found so far.


    Rear springs:
    I redrilled the springs and installed them, I ended up with 2.5 inches of lift in the rear, but since my stock springs were so trashed I think it just put it back at about stock... I was sitting at 2 inches between the bump stops, and the part of the frame were they hit.. Now it's at 4.5 inches. But the spring pack "looks" a little funny, becuase it's not getting pressure the way they are suppose to, since I moved the axle 3.25 inch forward on the spring. So at a later date, I will go back and move the mounts forward, and put the spring back together is the "stock" configuration. Or If I can find a set of "Chevy 63's" I might just install them instead, since it will be about the same amount of work.

    Good think I did the rears, one of the main leafs was cracked.


    Front Struts:
    98's have 4 inches of throw..
    2010's have 5 inches of throw
    I swapped the 98 top part (whatever you call that thing?) on to the 2010 strut. That fit's 100% fine.. But at the same time makes the strut 3/4 inch longer.. but at the same time it's not putting much load in the spring (I put it back together without anything more than a 17mm wrech and some man power) So that "extra" 3/4" will disapire soon as the trucks weight gets on the spring, and since the 2010 strut has 1" more throw, it will NOT be a problem. Now what I need to do is cut the lower part of the strut off, and reweld it on with less of the 1/2 bar that they put in there.. Just need to firure out exactly how much of it to remove..there is a warning sticker on the strut that basicly says heat will make the strut explode, so I will need to tack it on, cool it in water, weld 1/3 cool in water, weld 1/3 cool, finish wled, cool.. Better safe than sorry. My welder is out of wire, and isn't setup for gas, so I will take it to my buddy's shop this week and weld it with his welder.


    Anybody know EXACTLY how thick the spacers are that give 3.5" lift in "the front, that bolt to the top of the strut? I am guessing they are 1.75"


    Also does anyone know what the space between the rear bumpstops should be.. is 4.5" stock hight? Since I am planning 3.5 total lift, this will help me deside that size blocks I will need in the rear.
     
  18. May 15, 2011 at 10:05 AM
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    BFA

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    Do you plan on offroading this?
     
  19. May 15, 2011 at 10:11 AM
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    derekabraham

    derekabraham Living vicariously through everybody

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  20. May 15, 2011 at 10:35 AM
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    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    x2

    This guy is all over the map, raise with springs, then with blocks, re drilling mounting holes (actually worse, oblonging mounting holes) cutting, re welding struts, drilling out springs, he said he had a broken spring, what does he think is gonna happen when his springs are looking like swiss cheese ?

    Yeah, now he's gonna stick a 4 runner clip on a taco (which can be done of course) but is it going to be before or after the jet engine install?.....:rolleyes:

    I'm starting to smell a BIG ASS can of BullShit, that started after he claims to remove coils without a compressor... Jeezus wheres that ignore option !!

    But hey I could be wrong maybe he is re inventing the wheel:rolleyes:
     
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