General Car Audio FAQs

Anyone know if there is a place on the passenger side firewall to run my 8ga amp power wire? My JL microsub will be mounted behind the passenger side with the connections on the right side.

 

Would it be better to install new speakers and then sound deaden, or sound deaden and then install new speakers? I will be having someone install some components and coaxials and wasn't sure if it would make their installation more difficult.

I will be doing all 4 doors and the rear wall.

Thanks!

 

Sorry I don’t have much time to get on forums these days and just found this message! Please call me at the number below my screen name if you still need help.

 

Deaden first!

 

Would like to know the size & max depth of the rear door openings on my '13 A/C. I know the inner panels have no grills but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Just awful cold to do it myself & I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of quality rears. Thanks

 

So I would like to do a simple upgrade of the front/rear door speakers in a 2020 Tacoma w/JBL audio. What size are the front/rear door speaker that I would need to replace? Looking for simple and easy for a little sound upgrade for a little better sound and keep seeing different sizes. Is the ohms still around 2-3 that I should be shooting for to maximize sound quality vice a 4 ohm? Any info would help a lot since I keep seeing different opinions.

 

I'm in this same boat.
2021 4x4 DoubleCab.

I'm severely disappointed in my factory JBL volume levels.
Pretty sure I need amplification, probably speakers as well.
Trying to avoid replacing the head unit, at least initially, what with all the
Integrated features.

Trying to decide my path.
Dash corners - door first, or amplification 1st.

Is it possible to avoid cutting wires? The truck is literally a week old.

Hoping to find an amp that I can place between head unit and speakers.

 

Sorry for missing these questions however for some reason I am not getting notifications here again.

Also, I am pretty busy as usual and can work while I talk on the phone but not while I type (and I don’t type very well!!) so if you have not found your answers please feel to call me at the number below my screen name above (you do NOT have to buy something from me in order for me to help you with your system!)

Also, I am on Instagram below as well as finally setting up a Facebook page under mrmarvsplace where I will be posting answers to the most frequently asked questions I get, posting a few new tutorials and adding pics/prices with “instant order buttons” for the most popular designs I have as well as audio gear I have available these days.

https://www.instagram.com/mrmarvsplace/?hl=en

 

yes you get an add an amp harness that installs between the head and factory speaker wires. You will have to poke around for one that works with the JBL system. You then run a send line to the amp via rca cable and return to harness via speedwire or speaker cable which carries on to factory wiring. It might be more than that for JBL but either way you can use factory wiring safely up to maybe 75watts per speaker.

there are two channel add amp or four channel add amp if you want to keep back door speaker functionality (most people ditch em)

new dash tweeters will have negligible impact on tone and near zero impact on volume.

the JBL system has its own solutions others will chime in hopefully.

 

You build nice stuff

Glad you're willing to help others

That's what makes TW great

People like yourself

 

So I'm not really that knowledgeable when it comes to all the details on this stuff. My dad is looking at these rockford fosgate speakers but I noticed the wattage is significantly lower compared to the others in the same price range. The sensitivity level is comparable to the others at 91db so does this just means these speakers have more efficient power output than the others? Or does it really matter?

 

Maybe you guys can give me some suggestions here

I have a 8 inch sub in my 1st gen 4 door that needs replacing. It's powered by a 1000 watt Bose. I'm looking for a new sub, preferably under $200, that has a decent amount of deep bumps. I don't need the car next to me to hear it, just something that hurts my ears a little bit when listening to EDM . Few friends want me to get a Fosgate

 

If looking to add an amp for rear speakers(third gens send very minimal power to rear) and no sub, that would require me to splice wires from the rear speakers correct? Or would I be able to simply connect the amp and the HU in order to increase power sent to all speakers(which would also increase rear)

 

You need to get signal from the HU (into the amp) and then send audio out into the speakers.
So you would need to splice into the speaker wires before they go to the speaker (and send that to the amp) and then connect the amps outouts into the speakers.

You will also need a fused power wire from the battery, and a ground wire.
Depending on the amp you may need a LOC and a turn on wire.

It would be a lot of work to just increase the rear speaker power.

 

Installing a double din in 2007 DC.

Metra vs Scosche dash kit.

Which one and why?

Thanks in advance...

 

Anyone? I don't know much about these, but turned wrenches on jets in the Navy and am very good at installing stuff.

Just need advice on which bezel to go with.

 

I'll throw my question out here. I"m installing a Kenwood double din stereo. The wire harness from the back of the stereo has a black ground wire, and so does the Toyota adapter cable I'm splicing it too.
1. do I just splice these two black ground wires together?
There's one part of the user manual that states the black wire must be grounded to the vehicle chassis. does this mean both wires?
2. Is the main stereo wiring harness on the Tacoma grounded to the chassis somewhere, so that all I have to do is number 1 above?
I'm not exactly an audiosaurus, so ignore my ignorance.

 

Which toyota adapter cable are you using?

generally, yes, black to black and that is the ground.

 

the one supplied by crutchfield.

I got the stereo installed, and it sound good considering my truck still has the stock speakers. Shopping for new speakers right now. Looking at some Kenwoods, that should sound good with this head unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3339745456...1291&msclkid=13a2330cf8dc13f4aa1f52a8e68cd689

 

I guess ill revive an oldish thread so that I don't start a new one.

I have a 100 series cruiser with NAV and am going to replace the old worn out speakers (see picture, pretty sure they all look this way) and the ones I bought came with a crossover. ive never messed with crossovers. the cruiser has separate tweeter and woofer in each door. can I just cut the woofer wire and use it as the "in" input and run new wires for the tweeter and woofer outputs? Or would I need to find where the "amp" is in this thing and run from there? Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question!