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Geode's plumbing build

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Geode, Oct 5, 2012.

  1. Jan 18, 2013 at 1:54 PM
    #41
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've just about finished cleaning up and painting the floor joist areas where the copper pipe will be run. I've a few questions.

    The plumbing inspector said he will do two inspections, a rough in and a final. I'm not sure what the rough in entails exactly? Should I go ahead and run the copper through the floor joists and solder all the piping together? What about the venting? I thought I would rough out the venting without gluing anything or punching holes through the walls just yet. The inspector has been polite but has been very short with me, otherwise I would just ask him (he's pretty busy it seems).

    A reminder that I do have a permit pulled and will have my plumber do the gas work etc. But I want to do as much myself as possible.

    Thanks

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  2. Jan 19, 2013 at 5:43 AM
    #42
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Just saw this op.

    Inspectors don't have a lot of patience with homeowners doing their own work. To be honest,I don't either:)

    He wants to see all work done prior to walls covered up . He then.probably wants to see all gas work done with all necessary connections and valves in place,or replaced,with a test gauge. Your plumber will take care of all that.
    To be on safe side,complete everything,without covering up,you can put a high psi test on gas piping,if needed,and inspected,or final against valves. Hard to say . Different jurisdiction where you are.
    I definitely would take the time and bring everything up to code.
    Some things can be grandfathered in my area,I try not leaving too much,not worth it.
    The inspector is also protecting himself,along with your safety.
    Hope this helps.
     
  3. Jan 19, 2013 at 6:59 AM
    #43
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I get why dealing with home owners is typically a hassle. I deal with the same issues in my primary line of work.

    The water heater has an air inlet filter which needs to be cleaned/replaced periodically. The air filter is accessed via a rubber boot at the base of the heater (see picture). If the air inlet venting is properly secured, I don't see how there would be enough play in the line to get the filter out, as the piping will be hard mounted to the wall/ceiling...I tend to over think everything, usually it is a nightmare, but occasionally comes in handy....:)

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  4. Jan 19, 2013 at 7:27 AM
    #44
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    I'm not familiar with that particular brand,but I am with the principle. Just use another fernco,rubber coupling,on vertical so filter can be serviced.
    I overthink stuff too. Keep it simple.:)
     
  5. Jan 19, 2013 at 7:43 AM
    #45
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks an additional coupling is the ticket. I picked up a drain pan sized per the manual (a few inches larger than the max water heater diameter. Turns out the drain pan is in direct conflict with the condensate trap assembly...sigh. I'll either need a much larger pan or leave it out. I'm not sure the drain pan is necessary as the water heater will be about 8" above the finished floor and there will be drains in the area.

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  6. Jan 19, 2013 at 9:58 AM
    #46
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Why would the water heater manufacturer say that you should not common drain the condensate trap and pressure/temp relief valve? As I read it, it indicates a completely separate drain for both. This seems weird?
     
  7. Jan 20, 2013 at 7:27 PM
    #47
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Today I started the actual plumbing on this thread :)

    The goal was to flush the tank prior to installing the mixing valve and test the soldered/threaded joints and unions. No leaks so far, If they hold over night I'll solder the mixing valve assembly together.

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  8. Jan 20, 2013 at 11:29 PM
    #48
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Those are never connected together.
     
  9. Jan 21, 2013 at 5:41 AM
    #49
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Maybe I get it now, they can't be connected prior to going into the floor drain? But they can go to the same floor drain?
    Thanks
     
  10. Jan 21, 2013 at 6:15 AM
    #50
    Kolunatic

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    Yes. Both are piped to floor drain,seperately. Here you have to have a 1" air gap between level of drain at floor and the el ow fitting.
     
  11. Jan 21, 2013 at 2:24 PM
    #51
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What are your thoughts on using a drain pan? Not sure I need it as the water heater will be 8" or so above the floor level?
    Thanks
     
  12. Jan 21, 2013 at 2:32 PM
    #52
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Driving now :). Post later
     
  13. Jan 21, 2013 at 3:23 PM
    #53
    Kolunatic

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    Pan. In my area,everything gets a pan. Doesn't matter if afloor drain is near. New construction engineers have pans in specs on commercial jobs. It's code for residential. In repair,residential or commercial,I have to bring to code. About the only time a pan isn't used is when the heater can't drain anywhere. Even then Inspectors have said put a pan,just cap drain.
     
  14. Jan 22, 2013 at 6:09 PM
    #54
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I invited my plumber over to run the gas line and check my venting setup ;) And also to answer some of these many questions I have, don't worry, I tip well :)

    Hopefully we will get this bad boy running soon.
     
  15. Jan 22, 2013 at 9:40 PM
    #55
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    That's cool. Nobody down here tips. Tight fkrs !:)
     
  16. Jan 23, 2013 at 11:09 AM
    #56
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I try to take care care of those that take care of me ;)
    I also understand the meaning of a days work....
     
  17. Jan 23, 2013 at 9:54 PM
    #57
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Yes sir. One time I visited a shop in Dallas,ran a couple calls. One lady tried giving me 20$ tip. I wasn't going to accept it,not used to it. Didn't want to get in trouble. I caved,she was happy. I told another plumber up there,he said it was common with most.
    Now I did have a customer feed me and my helper with all the local BBQ dishes,with sides. That was really very much appreciated.
    I just try and do a good job so I'm called back again.
     
  18. Jan 29, 2013 at 3:12 PM
    #58
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Some progress! My plumbers ran the gas line and venting yesterday and answered dozens of my questions. I'll run all the copper water lines, electrical etc and then invite my plumber back to fire it up. The plumber thought it would be fine to leave out the drain pan due to where/how its located. Will see how this flies with the inspector ;)

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  19. Jan 29, 2013 at 3:58 PM
    #59
    Kolunatic

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    Good to hear.

    I'm looking at pics on my phone. Does your boiler have heat traps piped in? Where the pipes go up over back down and back up. Keeps transfer of heat traveling thru pipes.
     
  20. Jan 29, 2013 at 4:18 PM
    #60
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah the copper pipes going up and down is the heat trap. It is straight out of the installation manual. It was confusing to me and a few friends, and the plumber as well. As I will be installing a mixing valve (supplied with the water heater). The mixing valve will keep the DHW around 120f or so. The water heater will be set to 130F. This is the max design temperature for the radiant circuit. As the hot water and cold water will be in direct contact at the mixing valve, the heat trap is to keep heat transfer from the hot to the cold to a minimum (as I understand it).
     
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