Gettin' a New Knife

I'm not saying this is the case, but, some major players are out sourcing the work and putting there name on it, (I know this is not groundbreaking news to you) however the outsourced companies do the same thing, "cut corners" trying to save a dime. The work presented is half-assed, contract got, then pump in the bullshit. By the time they (name brand company) catch on, fuck you, I'm now making coat-hangers for WalMart. Company name now=shit.

 

can't get a good edge?

maybe try a worksharp....I just got one and can get a pretty good edge on my ZT, I haven't got the learning curve down pat completely yet, and I am still getting a good edge. then again, I use it because I can't freehand worth crap. but it is a nice convex edge. I think that I could get a much better edge with it if I got more (read better lol) belts with more gradual grits than a 220 and a 6000

also, what kind of razor(s) if you dont mind me asking?

 

Just the Sog. Cold Steel, and even the Gerbers sharpen up nice.... it's just that the Gerber goes dull from looking at it

I'm not a big fan of power tools for blade sharpening. I know the Worksharp is designed to avoid excessive heat buildup, but it can be easy to ruin a blade's temper.

My favorite is my Wacker Gadsden 15/16.
I also have a Dovo Bismarck 6/8, stainless Dovo Pearlex 5/8, and a Dovo 5/8 Astrale that had a warped blade out of the box.
My first was a 5/8 Boker stainless, and it is still one of my favorites, but it's not in my regular rotation... It's a "standby" that I know I'll always get a good shave from if I have a problem with the edge on another one.

 

I get the power tools thing, I was hesitant at first for the same reason, but now that I have it, I like it.

That is one big razor my friend, I like it. I have a couple nice size wade and butchers, but both need honing and arent that big. Which I will do whenever I learn on a couple other (and not as good/known razors). I love my torreys that I have shave ready now, as well as my Theirs Issard, though that one not as much.

 

When you get good at honing, you'll quickly find that "shave ready" really isn't.
I paid extra to have most of mine done by a "pro" (from reputable dealers), and they were anywhere from "okay" to "not so good"... but the first couple of shaves were fair.

My razor hone setup is:
1 - DMT 325 for use as a lapping plate to flatten the stones.
I suppose if I were to get a blade with a chip and REALLY needed to cut the edge down, I'd use it for that, but in general, the bevel is set with about 30-50 laps on...
2 - DMT 1000
This is the highest I go on the "diamond-on-steel" plates.
Next up the progression is....
3 - Norton 4000/8000
Nothing special, just a cheap-ish generic man-made stone. It's a little soft so it does dish quickly and needs to be lapped after 3 or 4 blades, but it cuts nicely and gently without overcutting.
Once I'm getting a good thumb pad test and it's shaving fairly well, I move on to polishing....
4 - Naniwa 12000
It's another soft-ish stone that dishes readily, but as with the Norton, it is forgiving. The finish off of the Norton 8000 will deliver a socially acceptable shave, and that's generally the level what most shop employees stop at when doing commercial work. The Naniwa simpyl continues the polish on the edge, but it doesn't get harsh.
Generally 50-75 laps on the Naniwa 12k.
Next up...
5 - 12k Chinese Natural
Yes, it's still a 12k, but it is a very hard and slow-cutting stone. It "acts" more like a 15k stone. I run close to 100 laps on this bugger.

Finally... strop 50 laps on .5 CrOX pasted hanging linen, then 50-100 laps on leather.
Normal after-shave maintenance is 15 laps on the pasted linen (I refresh the paste maybe once every 3 weeks) and 50 laps on leather.


BTW: http://www.badgerandblade.com/

 

I carry a Kershaw Tone daily:

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_31960_-1?color=Black+%26+Silver&N=662858500+4294965637

this review sold me (and the $30 price tag):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZ0yD_v7TWA

 

I've got a norton 4/8k and what I believe is a frictionite barber hone (I haven't taken the time to clean it up yet, no time at college). Both are needing lapping though which I will Do with wet dry sandpaper

And as for per honed etc, I found guy that actually works on the campus I am at. He advertises on some of the forums. He actually has 2 of my razors now for restoration (nice Frame back and a MOP covered tang)

But I have 3 honed by him and they are great.

I haven't done much at badger and blade, but have done a bit at straightrazorplace.com

 

Whatever you do... do NOT mention "Gold Dollar" at SRP.
The thread will be deleted and if you are unlucky, you'll be immediately banned.

For some reason, Lynn and the mods doesn't appreciate the fact that it is possible to take a $5 Pakistani POS and spend a few hours with it and turn out a very nice blade.
They have made the official comment that the Chinese and Pakistani blades are not worth the bandwidth to discuss.
One of the guys on B&B does it for kicks, slaps them into some cool scales, and then PIFs them.
I've got one and it's one of my nicer shavers.
I think he's done 36 or more and he's running on only one or two "duds" that would not take/hold an edge.

He uses lapping film rather than hones.

 

"Cheap" blades usually are crap but sometimes they surprise you. I picked up a little no-name carbon steel lock blade for a couple of dollars at the counter of a hardware store once because it looked to be a better knife than the price suggested. I have no idea what brand it was as it just said "carbon steel" on the blade. However, I skinned a couple thousand research specimens with that little knife, which only took a few swipes across a hone to remain razor sharp between specimens. I'd take a picture and post it here but I did some looking and I can't seem to find it, though I found a half-dozen other knives I didn't even know I had.