Getting Bessie running again (sitting for 6 years)

So…my 2002 has been sitting for 6 years, because it developed a problem and I wasn’t sure what to do with it. Well, now it’s time to do something. I’m pretty sure the first thing I need to do is a compression test, but what do I need to do before that? I’ve read various things saying that before you even turn it over, you’ve got to change the oil/spray oil down the cylinders/put in fresh fuel, etc. What should I do in what order?

 

Didn't you have coolant in one of the cylinders? That's a blown headgasket. Either tear the engine down and replace the gaskets or look for a motor

 

No, that was not established.

 

If she has the 3.4 check the cam belt first, is she has a 4 cylinder those cams are chain driven. I will be surprised if the fuel pump hasnt gummed up also, then there is the issue of getting what old gas there is in it out of it. Disable the ignition/injection and crank her over for 10 seconds at a time to get oil the flow in the motor before you fire her up. In addition, look for signs of critters, air boxes make great homes for rats and mice, I would hate to suck that mess into the intake and motor.

 

The only way to get coolant coming out the exhaust is through a blown headgasket

 

Well, fine, but that's not the same question.

Regardless, thanks for the advice.

 

No you want to test the cylinders dry first.....and get readings

and then if you have low numbers......then you pour a little oil in just to wet the rings

if your numbers shoot up then its weak/worn rings

iF dont go up then the head/valves is suspect..........

or the whole engine is just flat wore out


before you do all this....you need to borescope it and see if any cylinders/piston tops are all rusted out
thats a big problem on sitting tacos with blown HG's

 

Oh, crap, that's a really good point. So after I do that, I should do a dry compression test?

 

Before the dry test....I'd WD40 the cylinders and let them sit for at least an hour

then the next test,,,, wet test where you pour in tiny amount oil

then maybe a leak down test.....test the valves

clear all those mine fields then can move forward



while in there try to peek up at the valves if possible

 

So what do I do if the borescope shows rust?

 

You're gathering facts right now

if the scope allows jpeg's /mpeg's that would be great

most likely fuel pump is shot.......so there's alot before you can slap the horse in the ass and run

you need to lay all that out and see if you're into a venture......toyota parts, real oem ones are freakin high


If you're paying someone else to do all this.......these are not the droids your looking for


I'd be worried about sludge in the tranny and engine.....dont know how to safely deal with that without making it worse

 

The scope was a cheap crappy one my son happened to have, so if I need better images let me know…but I think I found the problem: Cylinder 4 is full of antifreeze.

So…now what?

Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:
Cylinder 5:
Cylinder 6:

 

now you have some hard choices....

could be just head gasket.....maybe cracks in the head.....or both

how many miles on the block.....is the compression already shot

if you're doing the work yourself this could be a fun adventure...

if paying someone.....I'd think very hard about putting a bunch of dough in an almost 24yr old truck


these dont make great commuters anymore.......they're really hobbyist trucks now

2005 and later ones took that place

 

There's 227,000 miles on the odometer, more or less, of which I only put on about 4K.

I have more time than money, so I'll be doing all the work I'm capable of myself, but although I don't mind adventure, the goal is to have a working vehicle—even if it's not this one…though I like this one. I bought it less as a daily driver than for camping/offroading/towing/utility.

Thanks for your guidance here.

 

well it looks like 2/4/6 is the problem.....thats most likely HG

however its a good time to check for cracks between the valves and valve clearance

227K aint shit on 5vz....barely broke in...next problem has rust damaged that side of the block while sitting

So i'd load on the videos and pull that head


these really are fun to work on.......if you like that sort of thing

 

I had thought that pulling the head was the next step…good to have confirmation.

Speaking of videos, for my and others' future reference, I found a set that looks really helpful.

Wish me luck!

 

Take your time, use your head and do good work, you will be fine.

Take lots of pictures and keep us updated.

 

Kudo's on the pics....take too many
pics are for free

 

My brother, a sometime mechanic, is convinced that this will take hundreds of hours and is likely to fail due to improper retorquing, and that it will be easier and cheaper to put in a used engine.