GMF Bolt on Rear Shock Relocate for 2nd/3rd Gen, back in production

Thanks.

 

Once you survive grinding off the old parts it's pretty safe.

 

Yikes, that's the worst part.

 

I'm in

 

Grinding is a bitch. I’ve used a combination of grinder/cut-off wheels and a reciprocating saw. Make sure you have fresh grinding wheels, cut-off wheels and reciprocating blades. Don’t be stingy... change to fresh wheels and blades when needed.

Safety goggles and a way to protect yourself and clothing from hot flying steel sparks is highly recommended.

 

@Arcticelf Any chance you would sell just the clamp on shock mount? I'm planning on running a different top mount for 14" shocks.

 

I'm interested

 

When initially installing the lower shock tab clamps to the axle, make sure the two clamps/tabs are parallel to each other.

Fit the clamps around the axle and lightly tighten the clamping bolts. This allows you to move and adjust the shock mount left to right and up and down before before final clamp down. You will need to clear the parking brake cable.

Make sure the two clamps and tabs are parallel to each other. I installed the lower shock bolt into the tab holes so that I can maintain the horizontal “level” while making adjustments and assure the parallel spacing.

 

Shock setup is a bit different than other kits on the market. Is there a reason why you guys have the shock directly above the axle vs the front like in other kits?

 

wonder why they didn’t weld a plate inbetween to keep square and for easier install.

 

There's a cutout/bump in the wheel well/bed right above the axle, and that's the index point for the shock hoop. You can absolutely mount them a little farther forward to put some angle on the shock, but that makes the top lower, and therefore the bottom tabs lower. Maximum clearance is the objective for our lovely east-coast rocks.

I left them separate to make it ensure the lower shock spacers would fit easily, since the spacing is infinitely adjustable. I'll play with welding the two tabs together, but I'm afraid keeping them square/straight during welding might be more work than it's worth. Or I'd end up with a pretty serious jig to hold everything.

 

I don't see why not. That part's easier to fab then the hoop.

 

Here’s a closeup of the indent that’s molded in the bed. It’s the highest point on the stock truck bed.
Bringing the top of the shock to this height would take full advantage of shock length without cutting into the bed.

 

So what’s stopping you from being able to run a 14” shock with this setup? Just how far down the axle mount hangs down?

 

That's it. You could put a 14" in there, maybe even 16, but you're not going to get more than 12" of travel out of the OEM geometry leaf pack.

I have a F150 Raptor spring pack made by Deaver on my truck, with 14" shocks, but I had to build a custom shackle hanger and relocate the front spring hanger too.

 

Got it. Just comparing this kit to the Archive shock relocate since it allows the use of a 14” shock with their hangers.

 

I have a 14" shock using the archive kit but had to add an internal spacer to limit it to 12.75" to prevent over extending the leafs. It's hard to get 14" of travel with a SOA setup.

 

Archive and BAMF both make a great product (I used to have BAMF, and have installed both for people), and probably less expensive too. But they require welding, which not everyone has access to.

 

Yup.