GoFastCamper GFC Mods, Tips, and Tricks thread.

Yup, sounds very similar to the Redarc, as it can do the same.

 

I love my Redarc BCDC chargers. I have 5 of them and have never had an issue. They are a solid choice for exactly what your after.

 

a good alternate to the redarc bcdc is the renogy dcc30s, https://www.renogy.com/dcc30s-12v-30a-dual-input-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/

only downside i see is it's not waterproof so it would need to find a home inside the camper... but much cheaper and has a built in trickle charge to the start battery already in it.

 

Good to know. Seems like a really simple and convenient setup. I haven’t done a whole lot of research into it yet. Just saw that it was now an option that Off Grid Engineering was offering with their dual battery system that would make adding solar really simple.

Good to hear how many options are out there, but I am seeking to replace the Blue Sea ML-ACR that’s mounted to my main battery. Since Off Grid Engineering offers a mount that will work perfect with the Redarc. I don’t know if the mounting points are the same for all of them though.

As far as I understand the Redarc setup offers a similar trickle charge, but I haven’t done a whole lot of research yet.

 

Have you heard anything about ctek d250se ? Im not doing dual battery in the engine bay. My 2nd battery already lives in the bed

 

This is how I roll, hard to beat how clean it is. The Aussie’s shit is no joke, built to stand up to some harsh environments.
I will upload a pic of my setup later this evening for you.

 

Redarc does not have the trickle back. You can create a trickle back with some extra steps though. I have a diagram in my build. https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/23861840

The renogy will charge the aux when the truck is running. It will take solar priority on the charge just like the redarc.

Both similar concepts. Redarc is more durable and weather resistant. I wanted to have my controller in the engine bay, so redarc was the best solution for my needs.

Redarc install.. created my own mount for the unit with some sheet metal for cheap.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nycos-06-boosted-blue-betty.157700/page-339#post-23520848

 

Wow, good info! So essentially this just ensures that the starter battery can also be charged when the ignition is off? I did not consider the fact that I’d lose the ability to manually link the batteries together. Although I’ve never used it before there are definitely scenarios that I’d consider that useful. Definitely will be referencing this in the future.

 

Redarc sells an expensive solenoid kit for linking the batteries LINK
If you have space, a way cheaper option would be to install a manual battery switch to link and unlink the batteries for jumpstarting and solar charging

 

correct. i have the SBI12 for the trickle back.. basically hooking it up backward from how you would normally hook up an isolator. normally when the start battery is full, it'll flow over to the auxillary. here, the isolator gets grounded when the ignition is off allowing the flow to go from the auxillary to the start battery when the auxillary is full. so any additional solar charge will flow over to the start battery.

then you add the switch override that allows a manual linking between the two batteries

 

Modified my front runner roof rack to fit the GFC. Was able to cut it down and make it look pretty clean. Mounted my renogy 100watt solar panel to it. Stoked

 

Nice V2! how do you have your solar wires going into the bed? And do you think a 100w panel is enough for a fridge? I was planning on upgrading my panel to a 175w

 

Thanks! I actually have my solar cables going back into my cab in the cubbie behind my rear seats. And I think so I run a good amount of stuff off the 100 watt, seems to be holding up

 

Since electricity is just math...

100W / 12VDC = 8.333Amps

typical fridge might draw 22 Amps in a 24 hour period (according to a quick google search)

So 3 hours of good sun can certainly power a fridge for a day. Obviously you need to store that power in a proper battery, and have enough for days with little or no sun but long story short yes 100W is plenty to power a fridge.

Ive got 200W on my roof and I run a fridge, diesel heater (fuel pump and fans) charge phones, tablet, gps, and it’s more than enough.

To supplement a fixed panel with a portable is an AWESOME idea, often i try to park in shade or when the sun is at an angle or the wrong angel it would help to hang a portable panel and keep collecting.

I don’t have a portable panel yet, but I do use a DC/DC charger so whenever my truck is running the battery stays full anyway.

Good luck!

 

I posted my current setup on the last page. I think my battery is 75aH ? I actually forgot, but its a group 24m marine deep cycle. Im planning on changing to a 175w panel, CTEK DC-DC charger, and a 100aH battery. Eventually I may get a diesel heater, but I never plan on charging more than a phone or 2 from that battery, and some bed lighting. Definitely not a laptop or a tablet. So I might not even need to change it. I have a

$1,250 Dometic CFX50w Dometic CFX-50W CFX 50W 12v Electric Powered Portable Cooler, Fridge Freezer

Dometic CFX50w fridge.

 

Does anyone have the meso’s shark dine delete antenna to run the wiring from their solar bad through the cab, under the truck, and back through the cubby to make it look clean? If so I’m interested. I bought that when I had my uptop racks and now the two hole option on the antenna has me interested in doing something along these lines.

 

I use these because they are switchable, dimmable, and low draw. White and Red. Ive had led strips, small pods, battery operated and so far, these are the best lights ive had
https://www.nationalluna.com/product/1812-led-dual-colour-touch-light-whitered

 

https://joshedgardesign.com/products.html#!/HatchLatch/p/288114087/category=0

 

I saw somebody else use those and they look awesome, but for the price to get enough lighting for upstairs and downstairs I’d still have the issue of having to go around and turn each light on/off individually. That’s why the Matt Gecko setup is so appealing for the price. I’d consider the National Luna lights for the upstairs since I’d only need one though.

 

one is enough for the bed imo... they are bright!

also, i have mine wired to a switch so i just use the switch to turn it on and off but then have it in a reachable distance to dim or change color