Going from 4" lift to 1-2"

I have what I think is a four inch suspension lift (purchased this way). For highway drivability, longer lasting CV’s (I have a diff drop) and help with driveline vibration I want to drop the lift from four inches to one or two inches.

The other reason I want to drop it is because I have slightly larger than stock tires and the truck feels too tall for it's tires, there is no wheel offset. I'm not sure I'm using the right term, "offset", but I mean wheels that stick out further than stock. I'm hesitant to add offset as I think it stresses other parts, like bearings.

I’m not sure all the parts I need to perform the drop. I suspect I have aftermarket UCA’s, leafs, coil assemblies, perhaps rear shackles too. This is what I think I need, I’d very much like to re-use any components I can.

Front spring/shock assembly (coilover?)
Rear shocks
Rear leaf springs
Shackles
UCA’s or perhaps both arms

Questions:

Do my old components have any value on the used market?

Any other parts I should be replacing while it’s apart? I installed new LBJ’s, OTR ends, CV’s.

For dealing with washboard roads, general off-road performance and not much emphasis on body roll on-highway, which suspension parts should I choose on a modest budget? I don’t want to cheap out, but neither do I want to go top of the line.

I believe I need a steering rack too, to eliminate play. Is there an advantage to replacing it at the same time? I checked rack bushings (no play) and determined the rack itself is at fault by watching steering input/output with a helper.

I also believe bushings would help with steering play, and I have at least one squeaky one. A friend told me it’s far easier just to buy new control arms with bushings as they’re not much more money. Thoughts?

If it helps, I have more pictures.

 

Nice to see new tie rod ends, new lower ball joints, and axles.

Looks like a spacer on top of your shock.

For the rear, you've got longer than stock shackles. If your rear leaf pack isn't doing a sad face, just put a stock shackle in the rear with new bushings.

I'd replace the upper and lower control arm bushings while you have everything apart.

 

Looks like SPC UCA's with OME coilovers up front with rancho or pro comp shocks in the rear with an AAL (although the leaf pack doesn't look stock either since yours has 4 leafs not including the AAL or overload, stock came with 3)

If I were you I'd keep the SPC UCA's as it's always better to have a little more caster, and take out what looks like a spacer above your coils. In the rear I'd get new shocks (bilstein or OME) and maybe loose the AAL or the overload spring do bring it down a little.

I would replace the rack bushings before the whole rack... Aftermarket ones seem to be prone to failure ant Toyota ones will set you back $$$. For a $25 bushing set it's worth trying. And it looks like you don't have a sway bar anymore if that's important to you?

 

Thank you both! I appreciate the help identifying that aftermarket parts I have.

AK, that's good advice, and good eye about the missing sway bar. I'd like to test the truck on the highway, after new suspension, before I trade someone for a sway bar, it could or could not contribute to what I find as a scary ride at highway speeds. (but I'm biased because I drive a new Mazda 3 as a daily with brand new suspension)

I did use a crow bar to test the rack bushings and they feel solid and there is no rack play. All the play is from steering input to output.

 

Another question....

If I swap for stock shackles and remove the spacers will I achieve my goal of dropping the lift by half?

 

Discribed the steering play you're experiencing. Our trucks have a two piece steering column that has built in play that you can most likely feel while driving over bumps or pot holes.

You could also pull the boot off the inner tie rod side and see if you're getting any steering fluid leakage, if it's dry in there I would perform a flush of the system, could be an air pocket causing the issue. Always start with the easiest solution first.

 

The 1/2 spacer is prob giving you about 3/4 to 1" of lift up front. Stock length shackles in the back will decrease it by about the same... Most lift shackles are only 1". If you wanna drop the front more, you'll need to get shorter or less rated springs. If it's OME that would be 880's or 881's. Loose the spacer see where that gets ya.

 

I've looked into the steering linkage as a culprit to steering play. I don't find play. But I do find play in the rack, input will turn approximately 8 degrees while the output only turns a couple degrees. Feels sloppy. I have not checked for fluid leakage, will do that. Hmmm, interesting an air pocket could cause play. I'll check that too.

 

The steering play I want to eliminate is at highway speeds. It does fine at low speeds, but I can still feel play. If the steering wheel is about 14", I have about an inch of play. Going around corners is fine, as the rack is constantly making contact with the suspension. but trying to go straight down the highway is kind of a bitch as it wants to wonder.

 

What did you end up changing? Are you happy with the upgrades in suspension? Looking to do something similar with my current setup.

 

I haven't done anything yet. Cash is running low. There are small improvements I could make for not much money, but I have this mindset if I'm going to tear into it I may as well do it all. It's a weekend truck and it can sit in the garage, torn down, for a while.