Going to install TRD Exhaust on a 2018 Tacoma Sport - Any Tricks?

Not if you use impact wrench to remove it

 

Put the frame on jackstands and let the axle droop for more clearance.

 

I took one look under the truck, felt the weight of the new exhaust and felt pretty sure I could do it by myself but also felt pretty sure it would be a PITA as I'd need to borrow some jack stands or ramps and cut out the time to do all this. Screw it, I had the dealership do it. Cost some money but saved my knuckles and hundreds of swear words. You younger dudes go for it though.

 

I was thinking about that, should give another few inches of clearance. Last time I dropped a spare tire, I had a heck of a time getting it to stop rattling after re-installing.
I've got a 1/2" impact if needed. Going to try to do it alone, if run into trouble I will call in reinforcements.

I read somewhere these things give another 8 or 10 hp in addition to the slightly improved sound.

 

I read somewhere on a Toyota site several months ago that this exhaust adds 8 or 10HP, can't remember which and can't remember where I read it. Yesterday someone posted on another thread that it added 25HP which I believe is high.
Anyone know for sure?

 

On a naturally aspirated engine, a CAT back exhaust isn't going to do much in the way of power gains. It will change the exhaust note and that's about it. Where you see power gains from is on engines that have forced induction. More air being forced into the engine needs a bigger pipe to leave the engine by. But a CAT back is but one section of the exhaust. You have 4 CATs, some say they restrict some say otherwise, a small y-pipe, and an exhaust manifold. You would need to make all that bigger and less restrictive to see a differance.

 

I think it was my comment about 25hp you are referring to. That was an attempt at a bit of humor. We all pretty much know there is very little hp gain with just the cat-back. I do think there is some, but it's so small that when combined with all of the other variables is near impossible to measure unless in a controlled laboratory setting.

 

Tried to loosen the bolts with a 14mm socket attachment on a rigid impact driver and it did nothing (I have 50k miles on my truck so they aren’t pretty by any means). I let them soak in WD40 then put a 14mm wrench on and banged it with a mallet and that did the trick, finished them off with the impact. Just and FYI for those who found them to be as much of a pain as I did.

 

Just finished it up and it was kind of a bi*** with one person but definitely doable. I used a combo of needle nose pliers, regular pliers, and a ton of wd40 to get the mounted points off the hangers which was the hardest part of removing the old exhaust. I noticed my old exhaust had a giant crack in the side, it really looks like a piece of crap compared to the pro one. It was also way bulkier.

I am so happy with the sound of the pro exhaust! Immediately after starting my truck up it had a sexy growl at idle. It sounds mean but low profile which is exactly what I was hoping for. It also looks beautiful.

Edit: just driving around the city it sounds SO good. You can really hear the low growl when you get on it slightly.

 

If you don’t mind me asking, How much did the dealership charge you?

 

$50. took about 45 minutes. There's not many things a dealership will do for less than that. I thought it was worth it, but if I were 20 years younger I'd probably have my ass under the truck.

 

I hear ya ... sounds like a good deal to me!

 

I installed my TRD CatBack exhaust and am quite pleased with it. Looks good and has a nice deep tone without being too loud.

Took me right at an hour doing the job alone. I could probably do it in 30-40 minutes if doing another.

Kind of surprised me in that removing the flange bolts and removing old and installing the new system over the axle was quite easy. Most difficult task was dealing with the rubber hangers even using WD40 then dishwashing liquid.

Note: the new TRD system is quite a bit heavier than standard OEM system.

Some Tricks for Easier Installation:

• Wrap existing exhaust tip to insure it doesn’t damage body when removing.

• Leave the bubble wrap on new exhaust tip until install is complete.

• Drape a towel or bubble wrap over the axle to protect your brake lines vinyl line as you will be hitting pipes against them if you doing install alone.

• I didn't need to jack truck up or drop spare tire down.

• Use a jack stand for support after you remove from front flange.

• When removing old system It’s MUCH easier to leave rubber hangers on old system and disconnect from body hanging points then transfer hangers to new system prior to install.

The finished product:

 

This is very helpful. Thanks for sharing!

Did the Pro exhaust come with a new gasket and bolts where it connects to the exhaust piping?

If not, were you able to reuse the original ones, or did you have to order new ones?

 

I just did mine along with the tad cai and I used the org. gasket and bolts. No need for it. But spray the rubber hangers with wd40 and the bolts first. Easy to do, did mine on a lift and took about 20 minutes. Awesome sound, nice tone, no popping, no drone and sounds awesome at wot.

 

I paid $700 for the exhaust and CAI. $500 for the exhaust and 200 for the CAI

 

How much are you guys paying for these? Dealer only? Whats the part number for the kit for the DCLB's?


Edit: I think part number for the long beds is PTR03-35162 ?

 

Use a long pry bar or a long screwdriver type pry bar. Leave the hangers on the truck. do the front then the back and then the middle two. Unbolt the exhaust first. Slide the exhaust out towards the front. Two people is best, can be done on the ground, hope this helps.

 

Of course glad you found it helpful!

I reused the old bolts but had to order another gasket.

I paid 450 OTD new through the TRD sale with local pickup at the dealer. Yes PTR0335162 is the DCLB

 

Do it when the current exhaust is cold.

You're welcome.

PS, I'd lift the truck under the frame with a floor jack and jacks stands to increase the space between the truck and axle.

Lubing the rubber hangers with WD40 is fine, but if your bolts have corrosion, use a real penetrating product.