Good lift for low buck

I need to find a decent lift to where I can fit 32inch tires, I'm only 17 and don't have much money, are there any good lifts like a 2.5 inch.

 

don't need a lift son. 265/75r16's are 32's. (as are 265/70r17... 235/85r15, 255/75r17.. and on and on.)

Good lifts cost money. cheap lifts are cheap and feel cheap. if you want to keep it cheapish, buy 4 shocks (Bilstein 5100's), 2 coils (Old Man Emu), 2 AAL's and keep it to 2" front 1.5" rear.

contact @HeadStrong Off-Road

 

I ran 32-11.5s stock for a while. just search for the "pinch weld mod"

Little less bs to help clear frame uca is a good idea aswell for 11.5" wide and up.

 

http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/st..._Kit_for_1995.5-2004_Tacoma_(HS9504BK-1).html

 

You COULD just get 2-3" spacers and blocks. I had that for like 4 years. The cheapest option. And it's not THAT terrible. Its frowned upon here. But I was happy with it. It was already installed when I purchased the truck. But planned on upgrading down the road which I just did recently. If you're looking for a VERY basic lift (for looks over function and serious budget), it'll work. Cleared 32's ok. Little rub on pinch weld iirc. It'll hold you over until you can afford to get a "proper" lift with new coils, shocks, leafs, all those little extras that end up costing $1k up. My 5100/eibachs with dakars (and all the extras like brake line, greasables shackles, etc) costed me $1300. Plus off road ucas added on top of that if you opt for those.. Spacer lifts will cost ya about 1-2 hundred. I'd say go for a 2" spacer kit for now. Anything more than that (2.5" at most) and you'll have a terrible ride and most likely need ucas.. Then start saving for the real stuff. Or just run it! Again I rode with my spacers for a long time. And it rode ok. Certainly a lil rough. But was acceptable for the looks as well as bigger tires, and even more off road capable even if just slightly only due to a lil more clearance and the bigger tires. I'm not completely satisfied with my eibachs.. They're stiff as hell at 3". But that's my fault for not researching more into it(as well as "one" other person saying it rode nice) and picking a better option more suited for my truck and needs(eibachs are only meant for 4x4 with lots of additional weight up front, NOT a prerunner, heh). I would have to say the spacers rode better tho!! Ha. I'm sure if I had the right coils its be a ton better. But I'll live with it for the extra height I gained. Especially if it holds up better with the bumper and eventually a winch. I don't off road much(yet), just occasional stuff, and the may times I did hit the trails with last setup, I thoroughly enjoyed it. And certainly not crawling in my 2wd, heh, so the new setup should suffice. The rear definitely feels way better than the front. Still gotta take it out and see how she flexes. But pretty smooth out back with the dakar leafs and 5100s. An upgrade from blocks for sure. But for my needs, or yours, it may not be worth it. It will in the end when I do actually need them. But at least I've future proofed myself now and should be good to go for quite a few years, versus only a couple years (maybe more if she's a street queen) you get out of the extra stress/wear&tear the spacers and blocks do on your stock components. Eventually I'm going for an expo type setup for trail runs and camping and whatnot with extra recovery gear, winch, bed rack and rtt... So I should be set to go with my current setup. Just maybe some different coils is all. We shall see...

Here's when I had spacers and 32's.

 

Just get the bilstein 5100's. The front shocks are adjustable, you just need to rent a spring compressor to install them. For the back I just got longer 2" longer shackles (easier to install than an add-a-leaf).

Front and rear 5100's are like $300, and shackles were lik $50. If you want to go cheap, you dont "need" new springs, you can use the oem springs. Of course you "should" get all new springs, and all new appropriate length shocks...

Guess it depends on what you want. If you want some performance gains, get the bilstiens, but if you want all show, little or no go, then spacers in the front and a block lift (or shackles) in the back would probably be the cheapest. You *might* be able to get away with stock shocks in the back if you only lift an inch or so, especially if you're only street driving. Obviously, new shocks with a lift would be better, tho.

 

Love your truck Harlan.

 

Perfectly said.

 

Yeah I totally forgot about shackles. Easier than blocks. And easier on your leafs I'd imagine. I had stock shocks with the 2" blocks. It topped out occasionally on drops. My shocks were shot too tho.. But you'll Probly have the same issue with the shackles. 2" at most i'd think. The front rode better with the spacers than the rear. But 5100s set to lift in stock coils would probly be better.

If you can afford more, definitely get the better options. Which was 5100's with stock coils, and shackles. That's a good starting point right there if you can save just a couple hundred more. Coils will be a bit of a pain to install, as well as new leafs springs too if you decide to go all out. Its a job.

Spacers you literally just take the front shock assembly off and install the top plate spacer and reinstall. Shackles are easy too. You gotta lift the back on Jack stands Probly with blocks underneath. Or redneck it and use an engine hoist and pick the whole rear end up by the hitch like I did. Lol.
I'm just trying to take things into account being 17 and being limited on both budget and tools, ha.

 

Oh and another thing, is 32x11.5/10.5 (or equivalent metric) are perfect with our trucks with a lil lift. 33's you're really not gaining any more except for looks. As well as an even bigger decrease in mpg and power(yes 1" will affect it that much more), and more finesse getting them to not rub. I was happier with 32's. 33's required a lot of work with the bfh on pinch weld, and it still rubbed on mine at 2" lift. I was considering going back down to 32's my next set. But since I gained an additional inch of lift all around with my new setup, no more rubbing, and looks more fitting with 33's now. So around 2" lift, 32's are perfect and actually look bigger with them stuffed in there. 2.5"-3" 33's look and fit better.

Edit. Your wheels will also affect rubbing on pinch weld too. If I remember reading correctly, stock wheels with bigger tires don't run into issues as much as aftermarket wheels. The backspacing will play a part in that. If they are tucked in enough you might not rub at all. Someone might chime in and elaborate on that.

 

you want as much backspacing as possible without rubbing frame or uca. so about 4.5-4" for 11.5s (some tires have side lugs that will hit uca on 4.5". my maxxis bighorns do)

like i said earlier they fit fine stock with the BFH treatment and looked super beefy. Actually they rubbed worse AFTER the lift on the frame.

heres an old pic.



heres 5100s at 2.5" and 2" aal



heres with 5100/eibachs and 2.5" leafs

 

@NightProwler could I do a 1.5 spacer in the front and fit 32s? Or do I need a 2 spacer?

 

Not sure bud. I only know what fit mine. I have aftermarket wheels tho and I rubbed a lil. From what I've heard with stock wheels, you should clear. If nothing else, pounding the pinch weld flat would be needed. Mine I had to beat the living fuck outta that whole area after 33's. So much it pushed the fender and rubbed my door when opening. Had to wedge and finesse the fender back forward a tad to clear door. Ha. With 32's I just had to bend the weld flat and it was good. Still rubbed a lil at 3/4 lock and flexing...

But I would guess yours would clear with bending the pinch weld just enough to be flat. If anything. Everyone's ride is different. I would start with 32's. Then your next set after a proper lift maybe go 33's if they'll clear.

 

@NightProwler Thanks man I don't plan on going bigger than a 32, Spacer lift is probably my number one option now, would you recommend a daystar kit or a rough country kit?

 

Couldn't say mang. Like I said, mine were installed when I purchased truck. I just know how they function. I don't think too many guys run rough country stuff. But I'd imagine they're all the same really. Just basic spacers. Can find em on eBay too. But I'd buy either one of the name brands. Whichever is cheaper really. I would say get what you need from wheelers tho. Great company. They don't carry rough country stuff except shocks I believe. But have other options for shackles and spacers. I would say the toytec adjustable shackles so it gives you more adjustability if need be to level it, but they're more expensive. Should still be in your price range tho. And whatever spacers. Unless there's a specific kit your looking at? Post it up if so.

 

At least try to find metal spacers. They ride better. Rubber spacers always seem to accentuate vibration.

 

Bes lif eva, puck spaca fo lyfe!Seriously though the only reason I have it is because it was free, as cheap as cheap gets. But if you really want a lift, cheapest is 5100's up front. Level it out and upgrade later! I believe Headstrong is the cheapest place to order from

 

Many thanks for your posts. I am looking at what is needed to provide adequate lift to easily fit tire chains on my 2002 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Double Cab TRD. Chains are rarely needed but the National Park Service requires all vehicles to put on chains when snowy at Mt Rainier National Park and presently, there is lots of snow in the Cascades. My Yokohama Geolander A/T-S LT265/75R-16/D1 119R 8 ply tires are too big for easily installing tire chains.

 

You and I must have the same kind of tire chains.



OP you should have room for standard chains (especially non V-bar style) on the rear. You'r not required them for the front.

 

I installed 881 coils with Billys set at 0". I have 32in tires with NO RUBBING. Back end is stock.