good winches????

Are you also running a remote solenoid, mounted under the hood? I'm contemplating moving the solenoid under the hood for this very reason you mentioned (corrosion due to water). FWIW this would be on the heep, not the Taco.

 

can you take pics of when u seal it up so when i recive mine i can do the same......
also what reciver mount do you guys recomend?????
and for quick connect power cables?????any ideas????

 

my solenoid is mounted inside the bumper next to the winch. since i have sealed it up i haven't had any problems out of it.

 

as far as the cradle goes most all of them should be fine as long as they have the proper load rating.. haven't ever really looked around for one. that or you could have one made

 

costco sells winches not sure of the brand think it's mile marker but there prices are pretty reasonable
369.99 pe 8000 pound winch mile marker at costco

 

thanks guys...i have ordered the xrc8 for $269.00 free shipping it will be here tuesday....
as for the winch hitch plate harbor freight 9000lb rating $40.00
no i have to work out a removable power supply.....something like jumper cables......
anyone have any pics of a taco with the front hitch???????/

 

hey do you guys know if this will work to power my winch in the rear hitch
receiver???
its a xrc8 winhch
http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.c...iv/Warn/Winch_Booster_Cable_Kit/W3626771.html

or should i just make some of my own cables ???? i have 2 gauge jumper cables that i can get the winch quick connectors for like $15
i do not want it hard wired???

 

the quick connets are like $40 then $15 extra for the dust cover dam...
do you have anyplace cheaper where i can get these quick disconnects 4 gauge

 

wow is that true guys?? what he said^^^^^^^^^^^
the guy who winched me out last weekend used my hitch ball with A shackle on it to recover my truck from a 4 foot cliff with no problems at all??
why would they all make reciever hitches for winches if they are not made to use???
im very confused......
i know 8k is borderline but i have spoken to people with the xrc8 and love it......
should i take what this guy is saying with a grain of salt or what?????

 

well i just read about the mire factor and i have learned alot.....i belive he is correct.......
but that being said i also belive the winch mounted in the hitch is fine
i hope
the winch arrives tomm.....
anyone else have 2 Cents?????

 

i see you have a 8000lb rated winch as well......

 

i see no problem with running a hitch mounted winch. the reason you won't find any cradle that is rated to hold over a 9k winch is because thats the limits of the hitch pin. trust me we have put this to the test at our fire depatment. this past winter we had the ramsey 9k winch that i pictured earlier mounted to a hitch cradle. we have used that setup for years before that winch exploded. after it broke we mounted up an old spare warn 12k winch to it just to get through the storm. later we were able to put enough load on it to stall the winch so i'd say a hitch cradle should do just fine for our trucks. (keep in mind that setup was on the front and rear of a brush truck that grosses over 15k lbs.)

timmer is correct about the 1.5x vehicle weight for the winch because of the "mire" factor he spoke about. think about it like this, the truck maybe way for example 4k lbs but when your trying to drag it out of a hole or out of thick mud you fighting the resistance of that as well at the weight of the truck.

i think one of the biggest points of winch failure is the lack of care that they receive. nobody ever seems to pay any attention to the winch itself once its bolted on the vehicle.

 

"i think one of the biggest points of winch failure is the lack of care that they receive. nobody ever seems to pay any attention to the winch itself once its bolted on the vehicle."

Common failure points, in order: Solenoid (standard type winch - not Superwinch solid state)(you are correct Fire931) the 2 feet at the hook end which is most common rope failure where a Thimble should be and usually not - but just bent wire around the hook clevis pin -- and the bottom 25 feet where the rope gets bunched, birdcaged and buggered up -- then the attachment point at drum where most folks think it is a solid mounting. Superwinch is one of VERY few that use a drum recess with set screw. (actually insert the rope end into the drum hole and secure with set screw. Most (Warn-ing, etc) use a copper battery connector to hold the rope to drum -- however this connection on any winch is only to help keep the rope on the drum -- it is the wraps that actually secure the rope to drum under load. More later -- there are some not to good comments about hitch winches that need to be clarified. Bill Burke

 

so with my hitch winch set up i could never use a snatch block to double the load because of the hitch pin rating of 9000lbs correct????

also what is the rating on a 3/4" shackle brand name " warn" ect

 

thanks for the help i was looking at a 20,000lb snatch block made by proline

 

Generally Class III receiver hitches are rated at 10K pounds. Most hitch pins are not rated since there is no WLL stamped or cast on the pin. WLL - working load limit - in which the item has been "proof tested" to a point of distortion or failure - which under standard rigging practices is twice the WLL. Receiver hitches are rated for TOWING not recovery. The hitch relies on "tongue weight" to cock or jam the hitch in the receiver. The pin is actually designed to keep the hitch from falling/sliding out when the tow vehicle and trailer encounter a "neutral" position which is where the tongue weight becomes 'neutral or negative' on the ball/hitch. If used for recovery we may (usually do) exceed the rated capacity of the receiver and by pulling in line against the pin may bend/break an unrated pin. I prefer to install a Grade 8 - 5/8" or 9/16" diameter bolt when using a receiver shackle bracket for recovery.

If you are gonig to use your winch to pull/roll your broken (or whatever) truck up on a trailer the resistance is actually light since it is rolling and the gradient may be within tolerances for light duty winching. A 9000 lb winch should have no problem with your trailer operation. Issues would be the load applied in short distance with little rope paid out. I would shorten the rope on the drum to about double the length of the trailer and use the rest for an extension. Generally a rolling resistance for an average drag racer getting onto a trailer is around 1500 lbs - so you could actually buy a less expensive lower rated winch for that application. humbly my .02cents worth... BB

 

from what i here you are the bible........
thank you so much for all the help.....
i have been doing alot of reading about the mire factor and such.....
my next need is power cables i was looking at an booster style cable with a quick connect on the other end 24 feet in length.....4 gauge.....has anyone besides kevin seen these or used these type of cables to power a rear mounted winch......
someone else told me that they will NOTdeliver enough power?????

 

All rated 3/4" Screw Pin Anchor shackles that we should be using in recovery should have a minimum WLL of 4.75T. Some I have which are 19mm[3/4" are WLL at 4.75T and others I have that are 20mm[3/4" with a WLL 6.5T - Anchor shackles are measured at the bow end of the shackle not the pin diameter. ONLY use rated hardware with a WLL/SWL cast or stamped into the device. We should only use Screw Pin Anchor shackles since they meet the ANSI standard for rigging and overhead lifting. These are sometimes referred to as "Bow" shackles. Most winch companies have their hardware made "offshore" but you can check out the Crosby website or go to a local rigging/cable/rope company to get some good hardware and usually at a better cost than the local rip-off 4wd supply store.

If you are using synthetic winch line and if it is made with UHWMP - like Amsteel Blue - or other type Dyneema/Technora fibers they are completely UV stable. Covering it up is a nice thing to do but not necessary. BB