Gordi's 2011 Silver Tacoma Build Thread

Next has been on my list for awhile and I actually had a set of the seat heaters a year ago but chickened out because I thought the work was going to be too much, but after always parking outside and freezing my ass off this winter i decided to suck it up and do it.

I ordered a kit off Amazon for 70 bucks for two with a high/low setting and two pads each chair for back and butt.
Also recommend that you order hog pliers and pins for 17 bucks because you need them to reinstall the seat bottom cloth. I do have coverking neoprene seat covers but i wanted them under the stock cloth in case i removed the covers.

UNplug battery before removing chairs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

tools i used


Not pictured was the 15mm socket to get the seats out.

I used this write up for help even though my 2011 sport seats were a little different and they have a side curtain airbag.
http://www.lieblweb.com/heatedseat.html

Disassemble

Roll the top seat cloth up and stuff the heating pad under. easy part,


test fit it all!



these pits in the channel is where the hog rings attach.




always have supervision


cut the holes for the center rings, use zip ties at this point.




the yellow wire on the Left is the airbag wire that you have to disconnect to get the cushion set.


Now button it all back up and recover the seats. They are in the truck now and not wired yet I will finish that tonight.

These switches will be added to the cup holder area.

So i finished up the wiring and my only gripe is the wire harness has really short wiring to the actual seat heaters and then really long to the switches which im assuming they want u to hide the relay in the seat. I didnt like that so i made extensions and hid the relays under the cup holders.

Then ran the loom up the stock wiring and zip tied it later.


this is where i hid the relays and extra wire, messy now but i cleaned and ziptied it all and it fits great under there.



Final picture for the switches,



Nice and toasty.

 

Nice updates!

 

More to come. Dakars and 5125s r here along with bumps and u bolt flip

 

I got dakars and ubolt flip in as well!

 

If only ur truck was silver we would almost be twins

 

I was thinking the same, but we all know MGM is better.

 

Not for scratches! But yeah silver is super common.

 

So last weekend I was rolling under the truck to check some torques on some bolts and noticed i had a pinion seal leak on the rear diff. I still have power train warranty so i took it to the dealer and told them to look at it and also the front two wheel bearings. After an inspection they noted all those were failing and replaced them free of charge. 5 year 60 k miles is a nice warranty but im at 38k miles and my 5 years ends this july 8th. Also surprised these failed so fast so kinda disappointed there.

Now onto this weekend I set out to replace my stock TSB 4 leaf pack and toytec AAL, Also was going to pull my 5100 rear shocks for 0-1 inch of travel which were already limiting. I replaced the rear with a set of OME dakars and bilstein 5125 that have the 10.4inch stroke also Had an allpro u bolt flip kit and new bump stop to match the new ride height and travel. My front has been about 1/2 inch taller for awhile and the sag with a trailer was embarrassing.

So easy start was to remove the bilstein 5100, I have done about 10 of these shocks with no problems, i used liquid wrench the day before and have the proper hex key and wrench for removal. Needless to say these were on there by god himself, which is odd because its a nylon lock nut and they are under very little torque. So of course both top nuts sheared off just from my arm strength which is nothing impressive and i was not even trying that hard.


Then the rest started to come off with the leaf springs. The front leaf spring bolt is sleeved but mine was mated to the sleeve really well because i had to end up cutting it out. I tried everything to get it out, on the passenger side i dropped the exhaust and pounded that one out with ease. Thanks for the ride ben @m3bassman !

Also the dakars are super beefy and doing them alone in a one car garge is a total bitch ( @SjTacoSharks ) you were right haha.

My truck is about 97% rust free and i was surprised by the shock nut and the front leaf spring bolt. But after 7 hrs alone in the garage and few smashed toes from the leafs all of it was on.



Still need to measure my bump stop length so i dont ruin the shock itself.




its a little ass high right now which should settle some but on a mostly level drive way it looks good. I will take measures eventually.

After driving around the rear feels way better, the aal and stock leafs were way more stiff and didnt absorb shit. The shocks are much better also in my opinion, im really pleased with it on road and will get to see this weekend how it is on dirt.

 

You mean because you didn't want to copy me.

 

Ha I had mine first!! I have yours too though!!!

 

Truck is looking good.

My pinyon seal leaked at 20K, also replaced under warranty. . Glad you got the bearings taken care of too. And crazy you did leafs alone! Congrats!

 

I'm getting them tomorrow....man I forgot how much I hated this place

 

ya i was surprised by the leak really and hope its not the lift of D line angle. But time will tell and its not that bad of a fix now the warranty is gone. Yes leafs alone was more than i expected!

 

Update:

When you do your first retro fit expect to do it again, I didnt want to have to pull them apart due to it being a huge pain in the ass so i sealed my first set like Ft knox. Well i forgot to bake the plastic i painted to help cure it and gas off.....So this is what happens and it looks super shitty,


So after consulting headlight junkies on facebook who were all a bunch of assholes and say "thats what u get for not having a pro do it" Basically i just bought another pair of depos on ebay for 80 bucks and im only in this 320 so far. So i unbaked all 4 headlights and swapped lenses due to the stock ones basically chemically bonded with the off gas and no wax would take it out or solvent without damaging the headlights. Cool thing is that these were paid for by a lady doing IRONMAN in my town, i found her wallet and ID on a trail i was running with the wife and we facebooked her and she came and got it and kicked us 100 bucks for finding it and returning it. Good karma really.
Finished.



Also upgraded my main power and groudn wires to 4gauge as i had 8 and a buddy had some 4 left over, so i clamped the new line using vice on my work bench. Cool too have the right colors also.


Lastly I spent a good amount of the day helping @m3bassman with his yard at his house, laying sod isnt bad it just is more fun with more people. In trade he helped me swap my fox coilovers in and we also took 1 leaf spring our of the rear dakar pack as i dont have any weight back there for now and will reevaluate when the tent and rack show up spring.

you remember these.
Install went well with no hiccups really and @HeadStrong Off-Road pricing and shipping and customer service cant be beat. Marie was super helpful and i can already tell she will be helping with stuff for the wifes 4runner soon.
Installed

Thats set at what fox sets them at for a good ride and height, I didnt change them.

The final picture but with about 300-350 lbs of tools and jacks and shit in the bed it still had rake. Unloaded the front is 2.25inch on both sides and the rear is an perfect 3inches with a full tank of gas.

 

nice truck man, you should make the first pic of your truck though lol

 

ha i kinda like it, that jetta is where it all started and you gotta respect what a POS it was! Plus my build page would get lost among the 1000 silver double cab build pages!

 

Some times i just lose control of the wheel driving such a bad ass rig. You cant handle the second gen!

 

Josh you'd probably know the answer to this.
So in the next couple weeks I plan on adding in some new fogs behind the grill and also an OBA setup. Can you tell or even better show me what wire to tap into to get switched power?

 

So ur gonna run a tap a fuse from any power on fuse, such as power windows. That wire will then run to a relay which will then power ur lights. U need a seperate one for air also. But I would recommend just an on off for air since u will know if it's on (loud). Where you going to put it btw?