Got my bed shoved into my cab

Yeah, I was more grumpy than anything TBH. With my 2013 I had just sold my STi with plans to pay off the small balance on the truck and then buy something less practical than the STi. Then the truck was totaled and I found myself needing a car, which is why I ended up with a Vette instead of my original chioce car, but I ended up with my first choice Tacoma that worked better for a potential new family anyways. The CX-5 turned into a really nice Grand Cherokee (depending on your view of FCA is a good or a bad thing...my wife had wanted a JGC since she was 15, so it was the perfect time for it) and both vehicles ended up with a lower payment than we had, so it was a win, I guess.

For those who are talking about steel bumpers in a crash...
Crash by Mike M, on Flickr

I was doing 25-30 MPH on an uphill right hand turn. The car coming in the other lane on his downhill right hand turn overshot the turn and crossed the double yellow and went into me. In my case the bumper deflected him off of me, but it took the frame of the truck out in the process. I was hard on the brakes but I don't know what the actual impact speed was. My bags didn't deploy. The ARB bumper was actually bent at the center point. I walked away without issue.

I don't know if I would have done better or worse without the bumper. I have to believe the car would have pushed into my front end more rather than deflect, but the actual impact forces to me I wouldn't have a clue without instrumentation. The other driver's bags blew and it tore the entire driver side upright out of the car. The phone I have shows the spring on the ground with no strut to be found.

 

No matter what you decide to do, it might be and probably is worth asking for the valuation documents. If they deemed it not a total loss they should have some valuation documentation to decide what value it is worth and how much repair costs would be a total loss. If your get that you can compare to similar vehicles in your area if the country and verify that they are giving you a fair shake. If you find that they may have valued you truck too low, and $2k more value would put it into the repair clear and simple, you can decide if your want to do that. You might find that they valued it too high and a lower valuation would deem it a total loss. Just having that info might give you leverage or help your decision making.

 

KBB bluebook trade-in is 2000 less than private party so you’re getting 1000 less than what people regularly get when trading in. Obviously trade-in is not optimal and I insist on near private party if I’m going to trade in. But what I’m pulling up on Kelley blue book is way off what you’re saying. I know it can vary based on region but is it 5000 different?

 

Never mind, oops, I put in 70 instead of 70,000 miles.
But info pertinent to the post above.

 

sorry for your situation, but why is lying to a prospective buyer an option you're considering?

 

I fail to see where I said I was considering it. In fact, when you look at the complete quote, I was agreeing that I should walk away and I was also saying that lying about it isn't something I'm considering.

I'm someone who weighs ALL of my options. To not even think the scenario through is foolish.

 

my apologies. why even say it then? you could have just said sell it with the damage, not even mention lying about it.

As a person having experienced being lied to by previous owners on other vehicles, I wish only ill-will upon them.

But all is good, you clarified. Glad to hear you're not considering screwing someone over.

 

You can dispute the offer

 

No worries man, I didn't mean to come across like a dick. I know the feeling too. I once bought a car that turned out to have a fucked up transmission. The guy admitted he knew, but of course I had no way to prove it.

 

have you checked other sources for used trucks like yours, like Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace, to find out what others are trying to sell theirs for? I know when I went to sell my 2nd gen, KBB, Edmunds, etc all said it was worth about 12 grand. I saw others on Craigslist for around 16 ish, and put mine on Craigslist and sold it in 1 day for 16 grand. The guy who bought it had been looking for a long time, he said all the others he looked at were piles of dogshit, beat to hell. If yours is in really nice condition, it may be worth more than you think. Same thing happened to me when I sold my wifes Acura, got way more for it than KBB, Edmunds, etc said it was worth.

 

Take option 3 and never look-back. Could you get more? maybe but at what point does the hassle/time/effort justify what you *might* get? I like to keep things simple.

 

Eh, I'm admittedly a cheapskate when it comes to insurance (not THAT cheap, I'm well above minimums), but I detest the idea of subscribing to a service that, hopefully, I will never need. Insurance is math, and there's a reason the insurance companies offer services like that - they know that in most cases, they're winning by offering this. Maybe that $8.33 a month is nothing to you and I'm splitting hairs, and that's totally fine, I'm just trying to offer another perspective.

That said, I'd also look into the details of that cost - does that increase over time as the vehicle gets older, and the gap between used and new becomes more costly? Or is their math telling them that by collecting $100 year over year is enough to justify a net gain for the insurance company if you get into an accident and they have to replace your car with a brand new one? Genuinely asking, I haven't looked into this at all. I'm also assuming that the "$50.00 add on to my policy" statement is a 6 month policy, as that's all I've ever seen. In case you're curious about the numbers I'm coming up with.

Glad to see you're okay after that CX-5 hit btw.

Totally agree with this. Time is money, take the money now and you're making money for all the time you're spending hoping something better comes along.

 

It was $50.00 per year per vehicle. Full MSRP + sales tax for the first year of ownership, OEM parts for the first three years and accident forgiveness as well as nearly double the rental car allowance per day.

IMO it’s cheap insurance for the first three years to guarantee the truck either gets replaced or goes back together correctly.

In my case, if we assume a 20% depreciation on the Mazda relative to what I paid, which is a standard “off the lot” deduction, I am out about $5,500 compared to what I paid.

I got back what I paid for the car plus $3,500 as that’s what I negotiated off the top relative to sticker. In my case the delta was $9,000, which for a $50.00 investment was well worth the money.

When my truck was bumped in traffic, the rear cap and BSM needed to be replaced and I had no worries they weren’t going to use OEM parts.

Do I reduce it in time, sure. Has it paid for itself already, absolutely.

EDIT: subscribing to a service you hope you never need is the basic tenet of insurance, no? Not to be argumentative, but for the low outlay, the reward is huge.

 

I'm definitely not arguing that it didn't out well for you, I'm just not a fan of spending money on insurance and especially not the requirement to have it. $50/year isn't bad, I'll give you that.

Definitely agree. I'm fussy, I don't want to spend money. It has its uses, and as a car enthusiast I appreciate (a term I'm using very loosely) car insurance more than say health insurance, or renter's insurance, or other insurances we're required to pay in addition to the cost of the product.

I'd boil it down to this: On principle, I'd rather pay outright for goods and services. I realize that this isn't possible for most people, myself included, given the world we live in, but I direct that frustration towards insurance all the same. I don't claim to be right, just claim to offer a different perspective.