Gotta put a alternator in my truck tomorrow any pointers to make it easier on me and her?

So I have the tools have the part not afraid to get my hands dirty, I'm here in florida and have to put this alternator in any pointers to make it easier would be delightful, shes got a 3 in lift satoshi grill BP bumper, but thing is I know I gotta take the battery and its carriage out but it was hit a while back so its bent a bit and I know its gonna be a problem,

 

It only comes out one way. Unless you are super tall it helps to get up a foot or so for the reach down.

Getting the old one out is the worst part. Going in you have gravity on your side.

 

Dunno, depends on the motor you have.

 

Take it out the fender well.

 

Where are you getting the new one from? OEM are discontinued and Napa or Autozone reman units are very suspect.

 

4.0. Remove battery and battery tray
It will give you room. Still a PITA. But an easier PITA

 

My buddy just did his on the 08 TRD, he got the bottom bolt from underneath, he was rolling around cussing for a while I guess the lower bolt was really tight. Six point socket recommended as to not round off the bolt.

 

No fender well. I have the bp on so that went out with the old one

 

Yea I'm 5'2 so Haha Haha

 

Remove the skid plate. (For access to Lower mounting bolt)
Remove battery and tray.
A long flex head ratchet helps.
The lower bolt is accessible from the bottom.

Torque spec is 32 ft/lbs for the two mounting bolts.

I believe the bolts use a 14mm socket.
But don’t hold me to it.

 

Took mine out from the fender well both times. Easy.

Might as well replace your idler pulleys and belt at the same time. Won’t take much longer.

 

Stay away from reman alternators. Many do not replace the bearings which makes no sense.
Here's a rebuilt Denso from rockauto.
First line tells you all you need to know.

Remanufacturing Process Includes:

1. Bearing - 100% tested to OEM specifications and repacked with premium OE-standard lubricant.
2. Stator - Insulation tested to 600 volts.
3. Rotor - Performance and insulation tested to 600 volts.
4. Housing - Re-tapped to OEM specifications and damage-checked for heat warping, corrosion, or improper surface alignment.
5. Hardware - 100% stripped and replated.
6. Rectifier - Performance tested to 300 volts.
7. Voltage Regulator - 100% voltage tested to OEM specification.
8. Slip Ring - Re-machined to an average of 8 microns (20 micron run-out maximum), minimizing brush wear and abrasion.

 

A lot of "tested" not much rebuilding !

 

Yes it was a 14 and I did it!!!! Its in there!!! Proud of me!!!!! Thanks for the tips!!

 

Good job.

Nothing like the feeling of doing it yourself successfully.


It wasn’t too bad was it?

 

guess you'll need a small step ladder