Greased U-joints for the first time. Got a couple questions.

So I finally got around to greasing the drive line and found that the rear u-joint on the front drive shaft is a PITA to get to. I ended up removing the little heat shield between the exhaust and the u-joint and that helped a lot. My main question has to to with the grease gun I used. The problem I was having is that when the fitting that attaches to the zerk was tight enough to get a good seal it was nearly impossible to get back off without using pliers to loosen it. This wasn't a big deal until I got to that difficult fitting because I could not get my pliers in there and had a hell of a time getting it off. The grease gun is from advance auto parts. Is there a better one I should buy for next time to make the process easier? Also, is there anything else I need to grease along with the drive shaft?

 

Tie rods on a stock truck, and ball joints on a modified truck. Any greasy grease is probably fine. My research has found any compatible NLGI #2 according to Spicer is good for driveshaft, while SPC recommends 3-5% moly grease for their ball joints, which I also used in my tie rods.

Nah all grease guns have generally the same tip for zerks. I think some have used a needle tip with luck?

 

sometimes you can unscrew the cap a little on the grease gun. which allows more movement to release. maybe that will help a little.

 

Does it have a flex hose? If not upgrade

 

This costs $40 Canadian, my grease gun was like $20, but it's the best thing I've bought for greasing. Works so damn good! You won't regret buying one
I've used it on old grease fittings that wouldn't take grease and it worked perfect. Nothing more frustrating than trying to hold the end of a grease gun on a fitting only to have grease shit out all around fitting. Makes my blood boil

 

Does it fit in the front driveshaft? I have one and it's huge compared to the end that comes on the gun.

If used properly the standard tip doesn't have to be held in place.

 

Yeah I bought a flexible hose along with the gun and switched it out before I started.

 

It gets stuck. Just gotta wiggle it more to release it

 

Do you mean the cap where the tube of grease goes in?

 

Oh I wiggled and yanked and pulled. I ended up having to pry the shit out of it to get it off. I just couldn't get a good enough grip on it.

 

Are you not able to loosen it here in the picture, by twisting the gun/hose? That'll loosen the grip on the zerk.

 

I was able to loosen it for every fitting except the one in the rear joint on the front drive shaft (the one directly above the exhaust). I could barely fit anything in there let alone get a good grip on it.

 

I'm saying turn the gun/hose, not turn the part that's stuck in the joint.

 

Did you have it in neutral so you could spin it? I don't recall having much of an issue when i did it last. That was with RCI skids.

 

I thought you had to turn just the round part in order to get it to loosen. Are you saying that loosening where the two hex parts meet would do the same thing? I figured if I did that the tip would still be stuck on the drive shaft.

 

Yeah it was in neutral. I got access just fine it was just getting the fitting off was a pain.

 

No, between the hex and the barrel that goes on the zerk. You're saying the barrel gets stuck and can't turn, so turn the other side by twisting the gun.

 

I see what you are saying now. I tried that and the barrel just turned with it.

 

Yeah it'd be nice if they had a little more texture on the tips so it was easier to turn when you are covered in grease!

 

Yeah either that or a barrel that's about a half of an inch longer so there is more sticking out to grab onto.