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Greasing Entire Drive Shaft U-Joints (5 Zerks Total)

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by The Parts Whore, Oct 18, 2009.

  1. Apr 9, 2013 at 4:39 AM
    #61
    B737

    B737 Throbbing Member

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    It's not hard to do. Get a one handed grease gun w a 12 or 18" hose on it. I used M1 wheel bearing grease. I didn't grease mine until the truck had 14,000 miles on it. Don't over think it, just grease the 5 joints in 10 minutes and get on w ur life. Mine took 5-6 pumps before they were full again.

    More room if the truck is on stands. Ill just do mine when I rotate my tires every 10-15k

    Put the truck in neutral and u can spin the shafts as you please
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013
  2. Apr 9, 2013 at 9:54 AM
    #62
    DirtEater

    DirtEater Well-Known Member

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    Great thread guys. Lots of useful posts. And as the guy above me posted, "don't over think it". Greasing is easy, and if you're a total newb to it, the smaller grease guns are the easy ones. But you'll pay more per ounce using the smaller grease cartridge.
     
  3. Apr 20, 2013 at 6:21 PM
    #63
    jrogers329

    jrogers329 Well-Known Member

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    Just FYI...my 2nd gen PreRunner had 0 zerks to grease on the driveshaft. I checked that thing several times, and even made a video of it. Then got on TW and searched...seems that's common
     
  4. May 12, 2013 at 3:43 PM
    #64
    Recker

    Recker Well-Known Member

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    Just wanted to say THANK YOU Parts Whore! With the help of your post I greased my zerks today LOL....the four I found. Used the Mobile 1 grease.
    Linda
     
  5. May 12, 2013 at 4:53 PM
    #65
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    You may want to look for 1 more - mine has 5 at any rate. I commend you tho - I bet there are not too many women that could find even 1 zerk !
     
  6. May 12, 2013 at 6:11 PM
    #66
    Nixinus

    Nixinus Well-Known Member

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    Pre runners don't have zerks for greasing, only the 4wd does. And the 4wd models have 5, one on each u-joint (3 rear and 2 front). Park the truck in neutral on a flat ground and while under the truck move the DS slightly to expose the zerks. Rear 3 are on the outside of the u joints and front two are on the inside, aiming out at an angle.

    Let me know of you have any other questions.
     
  7. May 12, 2013 at 6:55 PM
    #67
    Recker

    Recker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys, I must have missed one on the rear drive shaft. I'm really thankful for your help, my truck is new to me but an 07, those joints were dry. What can you do to clean the drive shafts up? Mine are a little rust in the socket areas. I POR 15'd today too but knew better than to paint the drive shafts. Any way to safely clean them up and protect them from more rust?
     
  8. Jul 3, 2013 at 10:05 PM
    #68
    Bennett707

    Bennett707 Yeti Hunter

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    It might be nice to add to mention in the first post it isn't necessarily the best to overfill the sliding yolk zerks (pictures not provided in OP, but easily found zerks upon the way) to the point grease comes out, I did some reading and it sounds like it could cause issues.
     
  9. Jul 4, 2013 at 7:40 AM
    #69
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Link to reading please and how else do you do it ? Thanks.
     
  10. Jul 5, 2013 at 8:15 PM
    #70
    Bennett707

    Bennett707 Yeti Hunter

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    A summary of my knowledge gained:
    Too much grease cause cause it to "hydraulic". When the shaft tries to compress beyond it's normal position it could bottom out in the big glob of grease (hydraulic) and possibly damage the t-case output bearing. You need room for the pressure to release. I believe I seen a weep hole on the front, not sure about the rear. The plug (in diagram) can also blow. A solution to overfilling is removing the zerk (6mm if I recall correctly) and bouncing the bumper. Instead of filling the zerk until grease blows out, which takes a handful of pumps (I easily did 10), take note on how many pumps your u joints are taking and try to base off of there. 5-7 pumps probably most commonly used from reading.
    Also another highly recommended grease for thunking is Moly grease.

    [​IMG]

    Here are a couple of the links I read, and access to the stolen diagram.
    http://www.yotatech.com/f2/slip-yoke-revisited-61453/
    http://www.yotatech.com/f2/slip-yoke-lube-question-how-much-41723/
    http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/378824-too-much-grease-drive-shaft.html
    http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/21559-driveline-thump-cunk-when-stopping-starting-2.html
     
  11. Jul 6, 2013 at 9:42 AM
    #71
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Very interesting. Thanks for your time and effort. Curious George.
     
  12. Jul 8, 2013 at 3:48 PM
    #72
    Crom

    Crom Time is precious; use it wisely

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    The slip yoke on the 2nd gen Tacoma is not serviceable via factory maintenance methods. If someone wants to service it, they have to pull the slip yoke apart and re-grease the splines and reassemble. If one is careful they can reuse the factory metal bands that hold on the rubber boot to protect the slip yoke. There is a thread somewhere here on TW detailing the process and how doing so solves the "thud" noise on older trucks who shift from R to D, or vise versa, etc.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013
  13. Jul 8, 2013 at 9:31 PM
    #73
    Bennett707

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    K so any 2nd gen readers don't bother, 1st gens beware.
     
  14. Aug 18, 2013 at 9:10 PM
    #74
    josecmacias

    josecmacias New Member

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    thank you for all this info, i saved 130 bucks that the dealer wanted to charge me to do this, they tried to rip me off, they were unsuccessful!
     
  15. Aug 18, 2013 at 11:22 PM
    #75
    gearcruncher

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    Needle greasers are available !!https://www.google.ca/search?q=needle+greaser&client=firefox-a&hs=rJK&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:eek:fficial&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=wLgRUoXPOert2wWD9oGQDg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=677#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=Za1fJgWwUglsMM%3A%3BoZvJ_KBFoRpoOM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mtfca.com%252Fdiscus%252Fmessages%252F179374%252F218962.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mtfca.com%252Fdiscus%252Fmessages%252F179374%252F218784.html%3B576%3B353

    Another tip ........Sometimes the small steel ball on the grease zerk seizes up ( rust or debris ) . Use something with a sharp point to get the ball and spring moving .
    You can always add grease zerks to a component if you feel like drilling and tapping .
    Mini zerks are also available for those tight spaces https://www.google.ca/search?q=mini...ww.summitracing.com%2Fparts%2Fmog-620;250;250
    Remote greasing consists of hoses placed at the front of the truck with grease zerks on a block housing . This cant be done on driveshafts but anything stationary like front end components and rear spring bushings would work fine http://www.lubecontrol.com.au/more-lubrication/remote-greasing-equipment/
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2013
  16. Aug 22, 2013 at 6:25 PM
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    RC4413

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    I noticed the ball on one of my zerks is not springing back. Any suggestions? I've tried the obvious ... poking and proding. How difficult is it to remove and replace the zerk? Any helpful information is appreciated.
     
  17. Aug 31, 2013 at 11:30 AM
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    Bennett707

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    its like a 6mm hex head underneath the zerk.. stupid easy to replace.
     
  18. Aug 31, 2013 at 11:35 AM
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    OffroadToy

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  19. Sep 10, 2013 at 9:50 PM
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    pinktaco808

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    How many is there for the reg cab? Do they even have?
     
  20. Apr 6, 2014 at 7:33 AM
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    VinTaco

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    I guess I must be OLD SCHOOL because we always called what you call ZERKS now, we always called NIPPLES in the past...
     
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