Haltech Stand alone ECU supercharger 3.4, SILVER BULLET TUNE www.snpspeed.com

https://snpspeedinnovations.com/

https://snpspeed.com/

Its been a long road for me to get to this point with my truck going a different direction for my tune.
I bought it new in 1997 and added the supercharger in 1998.
Currently I have 665,000 miles on my truck and all those miles with a supercharger with multiple supercharger rebuilds along the way.
I have more miles on my supercharger than anyone I know by far.

With that said this forum has given me priceless information on what works and what doesn’t Work for me with.

4 years ago, 100,000 miles ago I went the methonal route so I could run a smaller pulley, 2” on a stock setup.
This system works very well and is inexpensive
But it’s maintenance and doesn’t fix all the issues.
What I did learn is that the methonal- water is an extremely important part
for the supercharger to keep the heat in check.
There’s really no substitute for this if you want to avoid heat soaking issues especially with a smaller pulley.
The last Dyno run I did there were 3 hard pulls and there was little if no difference
between them because of the methonal keeping the superchargers temperatures under control. It can be 100 degrees outside and the supercharger never gets heat soaking issues.

The problem with tuning the supercharger is the stock ECU is a very conservative tune and is changing the open loop close loop and timing map all the time.
Because of this most all the solution are just band aid solutions because the stock ECU is not breakable.
My truck runs great, but not perfect, my AFR and timing in open loop are different then in closed loop and those points are constantly changing so I have to tune the afr in the center to try and keep both sides happy and that’s not possible if you want it perfect 11-12 afr, so your giving up power.
I have a huge power surge open loop at around 3k or so regardless of my AFR as the timing numbers get better going into open loop.

My new solution and info I will be sharing is the haltech 2000 in the coming months with results and as the wait time is a few months for this unit.

The haltech will eliminate the MAF and eliminate the open loop, close loop surging issues going forward.

The kit I’m Buying is plug and play and takes 30 minutes to install, plus the bung needed to be welded in for the haltech 02 sensor.
It can also be uninstalled in 30 minutes or less to go back to stock.
It comes with all the wire harnesses needed and a base tune specific to my trucks info and will need a final tune once installed.

The 2000 model IS compatible with check engine lights and has more inputs for added options later if needed.
I will have two maps installed with a toggle switch to switch maps on the fly.
One map will be for methanol one with no methanol.

I will update this mod as things move forward as I was not able to get any info for myself from anyone here on TW.
It’s an expensive mod but it looks like it’s the silver bullet with real support.
This company can remote tune your haltech too.
This is all new to me so I’m learning as I go.

So what I’m expecting?
1) much more power at the lower rpms right out of the gate
2) a much better power cure with better torque and hp numbers
3) no more power surges coming on at 3500 rpms up
4)much better timing number as the tune is more aggressive than the stock ECU
5) two map will be installed
A) one for a regular tune
B) one tune with methanol
C) a switch to toggle between maps on the fly
6) a perfect consistent AFR 11-12 under boost throttle
7) I will be replacing the 2.75” MAF section with a 3.5” section getting more air that will tie into the KN 3.5” intake tube.
8) hopefully some more top end hp and torque numbers.
__________________________________________________________________

UPDATED INFORMATION NOW THAT ITS INSTALLED BELOW

So my recommendation for this setup would be this.

1) you will need a bung welded into the exhaust for the haltech 02 sensor. Get a bung bolt to plug
the hole till the install of the haltech 02 sensor or doing Emissions when switching back.
2) you will need a Windows base computer with WiFi and connect to the home internet. your phone as a hot spot or SIM card will probably be to slow.
3) you should have Gabe do a remote startup tune to get the truck running.
A) if there’s a faulty computer file or wire issues etc he will see this including if the crankshaft sensor
is not putting out a strong enough signal because it’s old and worn and he can fix this remotely.
B) you possibly will need a crankshaft sensor 150.00 , I had to order one from the dealership and there were NONE available in my state, ONLY use an OEM crankshafts sensor.
4) if you are using methonal setup make sure it’s all working perfectly, mixture, nozzle,
Your tune will be based off this input. You can have the haltech control the methonal or do a stand alone methonal setup.
5) my sweet spot AFR is 12.2 for the tune from the shop but my gauge reads 11.2.
6) a Dyno tune would be the best option after a remote tune as they would know the correct AFR not guessing if your gauge is not at 100 percent or setup correctly but not really needed.
7)DO NOT run the haltech 02 sensor in the exhaust unless it is connected to the haltech with power. If it’s not powered and in the exhaust it will get destroyed.
This will destroy the 02 sensor.
If you need an emissions you will need to remove the haltech.
8) you can leave the stock 02 sensor in place and wires in place with this haltech setup.
A) you can leave the MAF in place and the MAF tube section in place and wires all connected.

What to expect!

9) You will get 10-15 more horse power over the ENTIRE rpm range.
DO NOT expect ALOT more top end power, but you definitely will get more.
(Edit= I ended up getting 35 hp and 62 lbs torque more power in the midrange)

10) you will have a very consistent power band and perfect AFR
NO POWER surges because there is no open loop close loop tomdeal with and no MAF sensor to deal with.

11) your biggest surprise improvement will be the new found power that is immediately noticed from 1000-3500.
(Edit= 2000-4500)

12) you will have some hiccups in check engine lights that are done through the laptop now.

13) you will need a 1/4” vacuum “T” to be able to tap into the haltech vacuum line.

14) I ran all my wires and vacuum line though the main wire harness in the fire wall.

15) I connected the vacuum for the haltech line closest off the supercharger barb.

16) the 3.5” tube MAF section that replaced the stock 2.5” MAF section

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UPDATES INFO TODO LIST BEFORE THE HALTECH TUNE

Things you should do before you do the remote tune to not wasted time and money are listed below if your truck is not at running at 100 percent or should do anyways.
1) upgrade ground wires to 4 gauge and use dielectric grease on each connectors.
A) ground wire from battery to fender
B) ground wire from firewall to engine
C) clean OEM ground wire from battery to engine block.
D) run the “STAR” ground loop
E) star ground continues the ground from the engine to the frame and then back to the negvside of battery.
2) the haltech ECU ground wire is attached to the supercharger on the drivers side,
A) Make sure those wires are wire brushed and the metal on the supercharger is cleaned for full contact.
3) battery terminals need to be cleaned and making perfect contacts in excellent condition.
4) alternator has to be working at 100 percent
A) make sure battery is working at 100 percent.
5) the haltech uses more power volts than the stock ECU,
A) run a voltage meter across the battery when the engine is running, it should read 14 plus volts,
The haltech computer program for some reason shows .5 volts lower or so.
6) Check the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor wire connectors and put dielectric grease on the connectors.
A) check the condition of both these sensor wires.
7) two step cooler plugs
A) spark plug gap

Start off your tune making sure you have done the things above 1st.

The problem with trigger and engine lights are if ANY of these are not perfect you WILL have problems.

The problem with the stock electrical components are that if they are not at 100 percent you will have issues,

You might need to replace these if they are not at 100 percent
A) spark plug wires
B) camshaft sensor
C) crankshaft sensor
D) engine coils
E) there is a chance the wire harness is damage and you might need a new harness from Gabe for the two sensors.
Another haltech buyers problems were the wire harness.


Most of the issues are a ground issue or a sensor issue,
It’s super frustrating if there are issues that are not at 100 percent on your truck tracking it down

 

Ive considered the Haltech every time the 7th kit pisses me off. Where did you end up buying it from?

 

I’m absolutely pumped to hear more about this. Planning on suprercharging my 96 in due time. Do you think I’d still have to source a 97 ECU if I ran this Haltech system?

 

Following. I just picked up a supercharger for my 03 and was looking into ECU tuning and the methonol injection. Best of luck!

 

So covid has pushed the availability on these items and parts way behind.
They should be back to normal soon,
My haltech schedule for the end of the month,

So no new info yet.

Again this company will have a base tune specific to your Tacoma not a generic tune
and he can do a remote tune if you decide to get it spot on.

If you have a 95-96 ECU you would not need a 97+ ECU it for a supercharger if you went haltech.

Will update as soon as it arrives,

SNP Gabe is the guy to talk too

https://snpspeed.com/

 

Nope, the MAF will be eliminated

 

https://snpspeed.com/

 

Looking forward to hearing about how this all works for you. Are you still going to do remote tuning? Would going to Fort Lupton, CO be too far for you? One of the best tuners for Japanese stuff is there and I know he loves Haltech.

 

There is a speed shop in Colorado Springs that actually does haltech installs and is very familiar with them.

They have a Dyno treadmill so I will have it tuned on the treadmill which would be more accurate in real time results,

update,

have Gabe Salazar do your tune!

 

Yeah the guys in fort Lupton, PFI Speed have a two wheel and 4 wheel Dyno as well. That's really the only way to have it done properly. I'm just glad to hear you're getting a proper Dyno tune rather than some remote street tuning. Good results I'm sure, I bet it will be night and day from how it currently runs.

 

I will contact them to see what they say, thanks for the info,

UPDATE!
HAVE GABE SALAZAR DO YOUR TUNE REMOTELY!

 

Anytime! Brent or Jaime are usually the ones to respond, both some of the nicest and most knowledgeable guys in racing.

 

Haltech is being shipped Friday,
I have sent emails and Facebook pm and can’t get ahold of any one,
How did get in contact with them?

 

I think they're finishing a racing series for NHRA funny car in Morrison. I'd just call early to mid day until you get ahold of someone.

 

Any particular reason you went with Haltech?

 

SNP makes the PNP wiring harness along with base tunes, OTA tunes, and tons of experience with tuning 22re, 5vz etc.

 

And can do a remote tune for your truck through the internet.
Haltech is one of the top leaders in the business and have been around for 30 years or so

 

So just ease of use it sounds like. Fair enough. Just wondering if it justifies the diamond crusted price tag

 

Tagging along. I am hoping it is as good as it seems to be. Would solve the core issues and downsides for the Magnuson/TRD charger.

 

The core issue is the stock ECU and it has not been broken because there were so many variations made.
No you don’t need a stand alone system if your not concerned about getting 100 percent performance out of your engine and tune supercharger, turbo. If you want it done correctly with then yes.
You can run your supercharger with the stock pulley and be happy with that number or a smaller pulley but not having a perfect tune.
It’s a rabbit hole as we know and every one is looking for a different performance area weather it’s
wheels, shocks, lift, stereo etc.
But if you want a more perfect tune where you can control the tune completely and eliminate the closed loop open loop dance of waiting which sometimes it just refuses to do.
Also eliminating the MAF sensor and the 2.5” MAF tube can be swapped out to a 3” air intake section to let more air pass.
There are no Stand alone setups with live help or a remote tune on your setup except this company with the needed wire harness.
This should move the power curve to coming on right away instead of waiting till whenever the stock ECU decides to go into open loop and have better timing numbers.
All the 670,000 miles that I have on this supercharger I have never had a perfect tune.
It has worked just fine but I’m running a 1.9” pulley now and don’t really want a turbo as this is a daily driver.
Just trying to get a more consistent power curve with a safer consistent AFR for the motor under boost with better timing numbers.
Yes it’s expensive but the Tacoma has been paid off for almost 20 years now and whatever money I put into her is nothing compared to a new truck sticker that drops in value monthly.
It’s a problem that most supercharger owners have to deal with, with no 100 percent solution and hopefully soon I will have some good results.
This haltech Stand alone is definitely not for everyone Just like 33” tires or 4” lift are not for everyone