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Hard time getting the truck to turn on

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by somek1d09, Aug 12, 2009.

  1. Aug 12, 2009 at 9:48 PM
    #1
    somek1d09

    somek1d09 [OP] Member

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    Brett
    Mendon
    Vehicle:
    08 TRD Sport
    Two Kicker L5 subs with a Kenwood 1800 watt amp and Dual indash moniter. Flowmaster 50 series single in dual out right infront of the rear tires. Future Mods: (Within next month) URD True Cold Air Intake Airaid Throttle Body Spacer Future Future Mods: (When I get the money.) Toytec 3" lift Bilstein 5100s all around URD Short throw shifter Tints Custom Paint Dick Cepek DC-1s with 31"-32" tires All New Door Speakers/Components Total Chaos UCAs Custom Upholstery HID lights/fogs much more to add later on!
    My truck has been having multiple issues lately turning on.. i checked the fuses to find that my stereo fuse was blown but i don't see how that would have anything to do with the starter and alternator.. I do have an aftermarket stereo system in the truck which could have caused the issues but i don't believe it would because its running on very low power and all the wiring is still in good shape. (no fraying or loose wires)
     
  2. Aug 12, 2009 at 10:02 PM
    #2
    TacoOwner?

    TacoOwner? Well-Known Member

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    Joshua
    Camas/Spokane, WA
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    '10 4x4 Double Cab 6M
    Anti-thief tailgate, anytime rear-view camera, anytime locker mod
    What is "hard time"? Does it start after a couple times cranking? Does it just click?
     
  3. Aug 13, 2009 at 6:49 AM
    #3
    Caddmannq

    Caddmannq MotoNerd

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    Undercover toneau
    Modern fuel injection vehicles are very picky about battery and cable condition.

    Get an electronic voltmeter or volt/ohm meter (under $20 at Wal-Mart) set it on the 20 volt DC range. Hook it right to the battery and watch the action of it as you:

    a) first turn on the key
    b) crank the engine
    c) start the engine and release the key
    d) rev the engine up

    a) should be around 13.2 volts & drop about 1/2 volt as you turn on the key
    b) must never fall below 11.5 volts while cranking
    c) should jump right up past 12.7 volts at idle
    d) should hit around 14+ volts at 3000 RPM
    e) should never go over about 15.7 volts even at redline

    My guess is that b) is falling below 11.5 volts & the computer doesn't want to fire at that low voltage due to internal voltage regulation/protection circuitry.

    Next hook the voltmeter to the bolts on the ends of the battery cables away from the battery & do the same tests. Any difference in the readings would indicate faulty/loose cables/connections
     
  4. Aug 13, 2009 at 9:46 AM
    #4
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    Jake
    Ahwatukee, AZ
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    See build thread in signature
    Yea there really isn't enough information here to know what you need... If it's any consolation... my truck occasionally doesn't want to start very well either. It'll crank (I'll go about 3 sec, stop, re-engage the start and it'll fire right up). It's been like that since the start, never really cared/bothered enough to pursue it. There was another thread about it, apparently it's fairly common. It doesn't do it all the time for me, just sometimes. I will say it's a hell of a lot easier to start than my '69 AMC 327 in the '78 280z :D
     
  5. Aug 13, 2009 at 12:53 PM
    #5
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    Beech Creek
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    5100's all on fours
    You know for a fact that you have no loose wires? Generally, the only thing that will cause the radio fuse to blow is a bad HU or a short to ground in the wiring. You mentioned an aftermarket stereo system. Was it installed correctly? Are there any loose connections there?
     
  6. Aug 19, 2009 at 11:20 AM
    #6
    somek1d09

    somek1d09 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2008
    Member:
    #9593
    Messages:
    24
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brett
    Mendon
    Vehicle:
    08 TRD Sport
    Two Kicker L5 subs with a Kenwood 1800 watt amp and Dual indash moniter. Flowmaster 50 series single in dual out right infront of the rear tires. Future Mods: (Within next month) URD True Cold Air Intake Airaid Throttle Body Spacer Future Future Mods: (When I get the money.) Toytec 3" lift Bilstein 5100s all around URD Short throw shifter Tints Custom Paint Dick Cepek DC-1s with 31"-32" tires All New Door Speakers/Components Total Chaos UCAs Custom Upholstery HID lights/fogs much more to add later on!
    yeah no, it clicked and just cranked and took a few seconds longer than normal to start. The wiring was fine and done right and i checked it all then i replaced the battery and it has fixed it for the most part it will click here and there but it will click every so often
     
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