Has anyone figured out the DRL Raptor lights for 2020+.

An added 5 pin micro relay would switch from constant fused ignition to parallel with turn. Or a combiner module 2:1 would also work. (Tail as Turn type)

 

Very nice!

 

I will try and revisit this later today. It's raining hard so can't do work on my truck. The way I did it was by disconnecting the connector behind the headlight, monitoring the green wire with the DRL's on, when I switch the hazards on the power to the green wire disappeared.
After reading your post it got me thinking that maybe the Hazards runs on a different circuit and acts differently from the blinker circuit. I will try the test using the actual blinker circuit.

Thank you for the suggestion!

 

Test with the blinker. The hazards are a different circuit.

 

It'll be interesting. What you describe is not how my truck works, the DRL keeps +12v when turn or hazard is on and the headlight itself "ignores" the DRL signal in this context. Having the connector disconnected might affect results but I assume it wouldn't or at least shouldn't, I assume that the ECU doesn't change behavior based on observed load. I can put a meter on mine if you for sure document this behavior from +12v to 0 with turn on, then back to +12v with turn off.

My hazards, lock/unlock and turns all behave independent from DRL/Park and therefore independent from grille lights. For sure there could be a subtle change here, it'd be a nice detail to zero in on.

 

I just use the add a fuse, and connected it to the low beam. Turn the headlights on and there on.

 

Some just run it to the radio fuse.

 

I just ended up using the add-a-fuse to the "INJ" fuse slot.
The DRL's come on when the Ignition is turn on, and will always be on if the truck is running. So with the DRL, Parking lights, and the head lights Hi/Lo.

 

Always ON, not a good suggestion.

 

You gave up very easy. Now you get them ON after shutdown when the ECU does the leak test too.

 

Does the injectors power up for the leak test?

Not sure I'd consider it giving up when this did exactly what I was originally trying to do.

 

Naw, just on the 4 banger...

 

Does anyone else have suggestions as to how to wire these raptor lights so that they are on all the time, but cannot use the INJ fuse?

I have Morimotos and they occupy the EFI fuse slot and because of this, every add-a-fuse product I've found are all right-facing pigtails and since the EFI fuse slot is to the right of the INJ fuse slot, it's interfering.

Only way I could use an INJ fuse slot is if they make an add-a-fuse left-facing pigtail but I've yet to find one so I'm out of options

 

You can always run a wire into the cab many options on the inside fuse box.

 

Is there a secondary INJ 10 amp fuse in the fuse box in the cab? I'm reading that Morimotos state to use the EFI fuse but they are incorrect because my headlights will turn on randomly (due to the cycling) so I need to use the INJ fuse for the Morimotos, which leave no other INJ 10 amp fuse for the raptor lights.

If there is a secondary INJ 10 amp fuse in the cab, then I could use that one.

 

I would use like a heated seat, sunroof some fuse like that in that cab for the raptor lights that is powered with the key on. If you blow a inj fuse the truck probably won’t run and also the efi fuse. If I was running a wire into the cab I wouldn’t use any fuse that could keep the truck from running.

 

LOL I don't have either of those features I have a basic SR5 hahaha

 

Me either but the fuse was there so perfect spot!!

 

Toyota made the worst fuse box ever you have to lay on your back look up, look at the diagram on the cover then try and figure out if you’re pulling the correct fuse because the cover is upside down and no you’re upside down.

 

Thanks for the tip! Will try that when I get a chance!