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Have a 5VZ-FE,2RZ-FE or 3RZ-FE that needs a valve adjustment?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by RGosen, Mar 13, 2013.

  1. Mar 27, 2013 at 9:27 PM
    #41
    RGosen

    RGosen [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Christ would now agree, don't get yourself nailed to a tree
    Kamloops B,C CANADA
    Vehicle:
    2000 toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7
    Cold air intake
    Wether its overkill or not im glad I am getting it fixed, as it would of just started eating away at my cam and causing crap fuel milage and eventually a lot more to fix in the long run, and I plan on keeping this truck till it falls apart so thats my 2cents lol
     
  2. Mar 28, 2013 at 5:23 PM
    #42
    RGosen

    RGosen [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Christ would now agree, don't get yourself nailed to a tree
    Kamloops B,C CANADA
    Vehicle:
    2000 toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7
    Cold air intake
    That is what im doing is doing the exhaust valves as you cant even adgust them they need new shims installed and all of them were to tight..damn expensive but so is everything els we do to our trucks lol
     
  3. Mar 30, 2013 at 5:33 PM
    #43
    RGosen

    RGosen [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Kamloops B,C CANADA
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    2000 toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7
    Cold air intake
    Well done with getting the right sised valve shims put in and now trying to figure out my crappy idle now lol it seems to have gotten worse since I got the right shims put in..damn it :mad: never ends
     
  4. Mar 31, 2013 at 5:02 PM
    #44
    RGosen

    RGosen [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Kamloops B,C CANADA
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    2000 toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7
    Cold air intake
    For anyone els thinking about doing there exhaust valve clearence.I am putting as much info as I can on this as I couldnt find anything much on it.
    So if you dont hear the valves clicking away it more than likely means they are out and to tight. as I just had mine done and now I can hear the usual valve sounds that is supposed to be there. As well as I have gained hp from doing them I can go up a steep road now in 4th when I use to have to be in third reving it out to keep up with people in 3rd. Other than the newly crappy idle after getting this done it runs much better. :D and I dont have to worry about my cam and valves burning out on me. Mine were way to tight and may have had issues in a year or sooner with major problems at that point. why these valve shims are so tight from factory I will never know. the only thing I can think is it sounds more clean with no sound when they are tight and most people would think that as beeing better that hearing them but its not tru
     
  5. Mar 31, 2013 at 6:40 PM
    #45
    cmj

    cmj Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for contributing your findings! I know many folks think it never needs to be done, but these engines are not magical. For the most part they are extremely reliable, but the symptoms of tight valves wouldn't be obvious because it happens so gradually. I will be checking my 3RZ soon thanks to you.

    I do have a few questions if you don't mind:

    • Where did you get the shims? Dealer or old engine?
    • Did you buy an assortment or buy them once you knew what sizes to get?
    • Any special tools?

    Thanks again
     
  6. Mar 31, 2013 at 8:42 PM
    #46
    RGosen

    RGosen [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Kamloops B,C CANADA
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    2000 toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7
    Cold air intake
    Hey no problem.
    what I did with my mechanic was we had to order them from the dealers. And once you have checked the clearence with the feeler guages and know you need them we just took the cam off and measured them with a micrometer taking them out with a screw driver to measure them correct. and depending on which sise your are at you order the corresponding ones. We kept mine all around 0.11 0.12 of an inch which they are all way to tight on the exhaust side and were pretty much all 0.08 which is 0.02 below the tightest spec of these motors. it sais to have the exhaust ones at 0.10 to 0.14 which are in spec so we tried to get as close to the middle of that when we ordered the shims.
     
  7. Mar 31, 2013 at 8:54 PM
    #47
    02Toy86Atc

    02Toy86Atc Member

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    I cleaned the the MAF sensor and T/body and put new spark plugs amd My 02toy v6 5speed still revs up from 1300 rpm then like 30 min later 1000rpm,.take off is fine and come to a stop sign again 1300rpm than it changes again anybody? Will be appreciated...thanks very good site was Up to everyone from SA, OC
     
  8. Mar 31, 2013 at 9:15 PM
    #48
    xcmtb83

    xcmtb83 Well-Known Member

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    Be careful of your units. You seem to be shifting back and forth between inch and metric without notice. This will confuse the hell out of anyone trying to do this for the first time. Have a good one.
     
  9. Mar 31, 2013 at 10:42 PM
    #49
    RGosen

    RGosen [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Kamloops B,C CANADA
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    2000 toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7
    Cold air intake
    What I said above was inch. I did fix a a post on here as to not cause confustion. Thanks for the heads up on that
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2013
  10. May 24, 2013 at 3:01 PM
    #50
    cmj

    cmj Well-Known Member

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    I would like to contribute my findings on my 3RZ with 179k

    Measurements in inches

    Cyl E I
    4 0.006 0.006
    .. 0.003 0.006
    3 0.007 0.007
    .. 0.007 0.008
    2 0.007 0.007
    .. 0.004 0.008
    1 0.007 0.008
    .. < 0.002 0.007

    Obviously things are way to tight, and an exhaust valve on cylinder 1 could be burned.

    I wish I had check this when I got the truck, 25k miles ago. Thing is, the truck runs fine right now. I did a compression test in August 12 and got these numbers:

    Comp test(hot)
    4 192psi
    3 185psi
    2 180psi
    1 195psi
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  11. May 24, 2013 at 3:36 PM
    #51
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    You have described a dirty IACV...
    I cleaned mine up... and it corrected the erratic idle.

    btw... the next step after the erratic idling...
    is a piece of junk dead in the water. (no fire)

    Oddly... a cel does not occur when that valve gets dirty.
    Not sure if 100% IACV failure would even trigger a cel !?

    A dealership may tell you it's faulty (value off), then offer to sell you another.
    Sometimes they can be cleaned up... and will function correctly.
    But the dealership tech's will only swap in a new component
    and make no attempt at cleaning that.

    If you insist on new... it'll cost you $$$ :eek:

    * Clean your MAF sensor too.


    forget the valve shimming stuff...
    at least until you have ruled everything else out.

    I've seen engines with 400K on them...
    never required a valve adjustment.

    Not saying it shouldn't be checked on high mileage motors...
    just saying... I think your problems lay elsewhere. ;)
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  12. May 24, 2013 at 3:51 PM
    #52
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    Sounds more like a leak to me if your rpms are fluctuating.
     
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