Have I purchased the wrong amps/speakers?

I bought a Hifonics Brutus BRX1616.4
I figured since it was 4 channel it would be great for door speakers and I could have really loud door speakers. I think I'm wrong in thinking this now and it's way too much wattage for door speakers.
Is there a way to wire this up with say 8 or 12 speakers and it would come out even? It would be a series/parallel wiring job and I'm confused as to how that would look.
Is there a calculator I could use that can calculate a large amount of door speakers? Because I couldn't find one.
I would need to wire:

• 4 X 80W RMS speakers @ 4OHM Kenwood kfc-p709ps
• 2 X 100W RMS speakers @ 4OHM Pioneer TS-A6996R
• 2 X 50W RMS speakers @4OHM Pioneer TS-A1676R

I Figured I would wire 80W + 50W together, and just leave the kenwoods at 50W hypothetically for rears and put the kenwoods in extra space on a custom subwoofer box that isn't sharing air space with the subwoofers.

I'm also using a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D amp for subwoofers. This can handle a 1OHM load and I think I'm under powering it if I go the route of using it at 4OHM x 300w x 2.
I have a 2nd Gen Double Cab so I was going to go with the Kicker CompRT CWRT122 (43CWRT122) X 2. (Originally planned on Pioneer TS-W261D4).
Any and all criticism is appreciated.
Really trying to put together a good sounding loud system with deep deep very tight bass. And I'm working with the rear compartment of a Double Cab here so any and all input would be much appreciated.

EDIT:
I will be building a box of airspace 0.55ft^3 in two separate chambers and installing an amp rack on top of the box on a separate board so as to cut down on vibration. My cab is completely sound deadened. I also plan on putting 4 Kenwood door speakers on the sides of the box in there own chambers as well. Does anyone know how much air space door speakers minimally require?

Changed subwoofers from Pioneer TS-W261D4 to: Kicker CompRT CWRT122 (43CWRT122)

 

You can run any amp, just keep your gains down.

 

Is there any benefit to this? What would be my expected amperage count for say a 3100W system being done like this at 4ohm? I don't hope to upgrade my 130amp alternator.

 

you will be pull over 200 amps @ 14.4 volts if those amps put out that much power.

 

How can that even be possible though, I plan on having the gains set low but seriously will I be looking at needing a dual battery and high output alternator?
Does it matter at what ohms I use? Does the amp stay cooler the higher the ohms? Does it draw less with a 4ohm compared to a 1ohm setup?

 

Sneaky little trick there by Pioneer. On closer inspection, they claim Sensitivity (IN CAR, INPUT: 1W). Sensitivity is never measured this way. Cabin gain gets you what - 8 to 10 dB? Probably more like ~84 dB sensitive if they're being honest. There are subs that sensitive out there, but I don't think this is one of them.

Edit, also of note are a qts of 1.04 and Fs of 46 Hz. Definitely pass on this one.

 

It seems like you are stepping into the deep end before knowing how to swim. I would step back and watch some youtube videos before you go any further.
Watch this build series https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmybwiwzi3MXtpGxREFmHIZ2ty4enauhr

 

Oh, that's got me looking at: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/thiele.asp#_index to understand all of the specifications of a subwoofer. Thanks rob feature.

 

for a better understanding of Q

moar

bcae

 

Do you think that these kicker subs I've picked out are going to be as loud as I can get with a sealed enclosure? Or is there more powerful subwoofers out there for a sealed enclosure? Obviously I'm working with shallow mount.

 

Hard to say what the Kickers will do as they don't provide any data. But .55 cubes for any 12 is pretty ambitious. That's more in the 10" category. The Kicker would be pretty low on my list considering everything else out there actually. What are your depth, cost and power restrictions?

 

I'm not looking for the most expensive subwoofers on the market, but not wal-mart brand either.
My power ratings for subwoofer/s are: 1700W at 1ohm, 1200w at 2ohm and 600w at 4ohm.
depth appears to be what fits in behind the rear seats of a 2nd gen (2010) double cab.

 

Hard to recommend something without a depth, but maybe Dayton Ultimax or HO, Sundown SA, Alpine Type R are good medium power sealed candidates on the cheap. Sundown SD3 is by far the best 'thin' sub I know of. JL TW3 are nice too & can be had in the same price range and are a little thinner.

 

The depth appears to be

I need a fairly small depth. 5.5" is really the absolute max I could work with. Also trying to work out if I could use three subwoofers and have them output at 1OHM. To my current understanding this won't be possible with SVC or DVC.

The airspace I have to work with is only around 1ft^3 - 1.47ft^3

 

You could use three 4 ohm subs for an impedance of ~1.33 ohms. Keep in mind that impedance is given as a nominal figure and can vary a little even across identical drivers. That will get you close. If that amp really makes the power that it claims you should have around 500W for each driver. Three complicates things though. And that's a small space for even 3 10s. A pair of 12 inch Sundown SD3s might work nicely though with a little polyfil since you need a shallower sub. I'm using a single 10 in a .55 cube sealed box and it's very nice.

 

Well. I've been researching 'Thiele-Small' Parameters. And which one's do you think are the most important?
I've also read from crutchfield you can go within 10-20% of a recommended enclosure. I'm assuming it's still not a good idea, but when you consider it's thiele-small paramaters who knows.

I really like the idea of using three at this point. And with just 1.47ft^3 air space, (using the maximum space behind the rear seats in a Double Cab) I think if I find the perfect sub on the market I could get in theory the loudest, which is very important, very tight punchy bass. This is at least my plan.
So you like Sundown but disregard kicker, Kickers been around since the 70s and they really know what they're doing. Kind of leaders in the industry with there square designs that work by maximizing space in a build.

Looking at the sundown SD3 that does look like an awesome route; I think I'll pick up a late model and save a tad like I did with my truck lol. I'm pretty sure the alpines you mentioned are too deep to install.

What do you think of my door speakers that I picked out? The Pioneer TS-A6996R
I absolutely will be running the door speakers at 4OHM as that is where the best sound quality is achieved. However for the subwoofers I think I'll dip down to 1OHM because well I'd like them loud. I do hope running them at 1OHM will still keep them tight however.

 

I will be using one subwoofer for this build after talking it over with the checkbook so to say.
And i'm not convinced the sundown sd3 is all that brilliant of a subwoofer. It looks okay and all however I'm just not all that convinced it's worth the $200 price tag.

 

@inthebed
what did you end up going with...or are you still searching?

 

I'm going to go with a sundown sd3 500 watts DVC 2 OHM - A DVC 2 ohm sub gives me the option of sticking with the one or upgrading to two or even three given my amp and going from 4ohm to 2ohm to 1ohm accordingly. Really I think the sundown will sound nice, it seems very over hyped on caraudio.com so here's hoping for some sq.

Still unsure of what door speakers to go with. I think I'm going to invest in a fairly nice set of components for up front and not sure what that might be. Possibly JL audio if I can budget it. However that being said there's smaller brands with allot of hype behind them.

 

Oh awesome! I'd be very interested to hear your impressions with the SD3 if you get it!

Unfortunately for me, I have not really had the time to do much beyond this simple speaker/amp/sound processor install. I still have my Image Dynamics IDQ10v3 subwoofer (which has been in different ported boxes in my last 3 vehicles), but I don't think I want to go ported in this new Tacoma. Between the rear window actuator and the rear vents, it really eats into the space that the last box used in my 2nd gen. Besides, I have been using the smaller storage shelf behind the rear driver side and now I don't want to give it up. lol

Anyways, from the reviews on the SD3, I think it'll be a better SW than the IDQ (when looking at a decent sized sealed box behind the rear passenger seat only).

Even tho I use JL Audio HD amps (and love them), I don't have any personal experience with their speakers (other than their subs - which were great). For my door speakers, I went with the Hertz HSK 165 Hi Energy components up front and the matching Hi Energy coaxials for the rear doors. I just did a simple install and plopped them into the factory speaker locations.

It's my first time using Hertz and I have been super happy with them. They are a good rivalry to the Morel components I used to use, but at a better price point. In fact, I feel that they fill in the lower mid-bass better than the Morel's did (clearer and more responsive). So even though I have not truely filled out the lower end with a subwoofer (yet), I have been very happy with my system thus far!