Head Or Motor?

Ok, so here's my issue. I have a bad exhaust valve on cylinder 1 on my 1998 2.4. I had a shop do the compression test because naturally I didn't have the right threaded adapter for my tool. Anyway, bad exhaust valve and $2,200 to fix. I've decided to do it myself even though time is something I don't have much of. The truck has 266k miles and has never been touched. Factory clutch even. My question is I've heard with that high of miles it might be a bad idea to put a fresh top end on a worn bottom end. So do I fix the head for about $600ish or try a LKQ used motor for about $1000 shipped to the house? They have one with 115k miles with a small warranty. Obviously the head would be easier for me but let's hear some opinions! I've done a 22re head but the mechanic said the F2R motor is much more labor intensive with the dual cams. But you know mechanics...

 

What was the compression on the other cylinders? If that was good, then it may be worth doing the head.

I don't see why dual cams would be that much more labor. The process wouldn't be that much different than a 22R(E). $2200 seems high to pull the head and do a valve job, but not too far out of line.

BTW, you have what is known as a 2RZ motor.

 

I know some times the heads crack when they haven't had the proper valve matanance I need to take my truck in ASAP actually I'm worried about my calves my final inspection just came up last week with 150k

 

You know, I don't think they even checked the other cylinders. I have a misfire on cylinder 1 code so I just told them to check that cylinder. I was hoping it was an injector but wanted to be sure before I bought one after mine ohm'd within specs and I could hear it spraying. Thanks for the clarification on motors. I've always owned at least one Toyota pickup but they've always been pre-Tacoma. My grandma actually bought this truck off the lot in 98 so it has quite a bit of sentimental value. I think they quoted me just over $1000 for labor and $450ish for the one valve. Everything else was miscellaneous like coolant and oil or other bad valves. Doing it myself I would get the whole head gone through with new valves and everything. I'll try to get ahold of someone with a compression gauge that will work with these goofy valve covers to get some numbers.

 

Check all the cylinders for pressure. With the miles on it, go ahead and get a new top. You could have a small crack some where, warped surface, brake off a bolt, worn valve or guide. This way you know the top will be good for a looooong time.

 

If you get a engine, change clutch while out....you may be better in long run time wise.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-0-m...ux-/152338788185?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Your still way ahead with this deal.

 

Since it is the holidays and money is extra tight I think I'm going to gamble with a head job. I pulled the head this last weekend and the bottom end doesn't look terrible to me. I may regret this later but if worse comes to worse I'll pull it apart again and rebuilt the bottom end and know for a fact everything was done to my liking. So here's the next question, what should I order for the reassembly? Head gasket set (I've always had good luck with fel-pro, any others that I should look into?), I've read these motors need shims to get the valves set correctly so do I need to order some? And how about the caps on top of the valve springs? I kept them in the same order that they came out but should they be replaced? I'm used to trying to milk horsepower out of Chevy motors so please excuse my ignorance on these Tacomas.

 

You have the right idea so far. Essentially just give the head and the valve stem seals from the head gasket set to the machinist and tell him to do a complete job. hell order whatever he needs to, seats, guides, valves, etc. pressure test should be about 55 bucks and will tell you if the head is good aside from obvious scoring rendering the head bad. a complete valve job should cost about 220 after that. plus another 55 for the resurfacing. you may have to add a few more bucks for the shop to do the valve clearences. 350 + parts and y shouldnt be more than 500 total but check with you rlocal machine shop first..

 

You're right on the money. I called earlier and it was $375 plus parts. I'm having them replace all the valves while it's there at I think $10 a valve. I didn't think about just having them order the gasket set for me. That would save some headache for sure. My other question was about head bolts. I've always replaced them after one use, I'm assuming Toyota will be the same. Any brand I should stay away from? I usually go ARP but I think that may be overkill on this monster.

 

felpro if you want a middle of the road from price to quality

 

ARP has something for sure,, probably in both stud and HP hex head bolts. There catalog is extensive,,even if they don't have a all-in-one kit. If you reuse your old bolts, make sure to thread chase the block. I would put all new parts on your valves,,not just valves in the head and reuse the old hardware. Feel like dropping a valve just after the driveway?,,didn't think so. Locks, retainers, ect. Do it right. Your valve clearance shims and shim buckets might check out ok for a reuse. Springs are shimmable as you know,,if you reuse those. Can't shim them to far or you could get into coil bind. Not this cat. Would get new springs if it was mine, sorry to say. Your head guy should go over all of that with you,,if not already. He needs to asses the old parts,,then give you a call/estimate before proceeding with any $$$ spent other than a shop fee for disassemble and inspection.

 

take the head off and take it to a specialist. might as well replace all the valves, seats, springs, etc... They'll find if it has any cracks, and can weld/machine it flat again. I have no idea what that would cost, but doubt it would reach $2000 for a shop to do ONE valve!